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NOTES  ON  THE  PURCHASE,  MANUFACTURE, 

AND  INSPECTION  OF  UNITED  STATES 

ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS 


PREPARED  UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE 

QUARTERMASTER  GENERAL 

OF  THE  ARMY 


FOR  THE  INFORMATION  AND 
GUIDANCE  OF  OFFICERS  OF 
THE  QUARTERMASTER  CORPS 

e 


(VI  AY   »J  J 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

1921 


•I 

NOTES  ON  THE  PURCHASE,  MANUFACTURE, 

AND  INSPECTION  OF  UNITED  STATES 

ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS 


PREPARED  UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE 

QUARTERMASTER  GENERAL 

OF  THE  ARMY 


FOR  THE  INFORMATION  AND 
GUIDANCE  OF  OFFICERS  OF 
THE  QUARTERMASTER  CORPS 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

1921 


CM.  fOR 
tDOG.  COlU 


ucn 

As 


PREFACE. 


It  is  believed  that  it  might  be  of  some  future  value  to  reduce  to 
writing  deductions  made  from  personal  observations,  results  obtained 
from  actual  tests,  and  knowledge  gained  from  practical  acquaintance 
with  the  general  conditions  surrounding  the  manner  and  method  of 
the  purchase,  manufacture,  and  inspection  of  shoes  for  Army  pur- 
poses at  the  Boston  depot  during  the  emergency  created  by  the 
World  War. 

The  questions  considered  and  determined  have  been  varied  and 
numberless,  and  many  situations  having  arisen  demanding  careful 
study  and  nice  distinction  in  judgment  for  their  proper  adjustment, 
it  is  felt  that  the  experience  thus  acquired  has  undoubtedly  resulted 
in  obtaining  the  best  possible  shoes  of  the  several  types'^  adopted, 
and  that  the  data  relative  thereto  should  be  of  inestimable  value  in 
future  endeavors  of  a  similar  character,  even  though  the  volume  of 
production  might  not  be  as  great. 

It  is  also  felt  that  shoemaking  knowledge  of  a  high  standard — 
speaking  from  a  standpoint  of  merit  rather  than  from  a  commercial 
standpoint— is  to  be  found  in  the  Shoe  Branch,  and  that  there  will 
be  no  more  opportune  time  than  the  present  to  analyze  the  success- 
ful accomplishment  of  the  stupendous  task  placed  upon  this  branch 
of  the  organization,  since  as  the  emergency  work  is  completed  the 
organization  will  dwindle  to  a  great  extent,  many  of  the  inspectors 
entering  other  walks  of  life,  while  some  of  the  older  and  more  valu- 
able men  of  the  branch,  especially  those  long  connected  with  the 
service,  are  getting  well  along  in  years,  and  an  expression  of  their 
views  on  the  proper  method  of  making  Government  shoes  is  of  great 
importance. 

There  have  been  35  different  shoe  manufacturers,  each  T\ith  an 
inspector  in  charge  stationed  at  his  respective  factory,  making  the 
same  type  of  shoe,  yet  it  has  been  found  that  the  product  of.  each 
manufacturer  has  had  some  process  carried  out  in  some  respect  dif- 
ferently from  each  of  the  others.  A  comparison  and  study  of  the 
operations  performed  and  the  work  accomplished  at  each  factory, 
together  with  discussions  with  the  various  contractors,  have,  it  would 
appear,  resulted  in  ascertaining  the  proper  manner  of  performing 
each  and  every  operation,  and  the  reason  why  any  given  operation 
should  be  executed  in  the  manner  prescribed  has  been  determined 
by  means  of  actual  experience,  the  conclusions  becoming  self-evident, 
thereby  rendering  it  unnecessary  for  future  inspectors  to  spend  any 
great  amount  of  time  or  energy  in  experimenting. 


944 


PURCHASE,  MANUFACTURE,  AND  INSPECTION  OF  UNITED 
STATES  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 


Chapter  I. 
HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


During  the  entire  existence  of  this  country  as  a  nation  the  ques- 
tion of  properl}^  protecting  our  soldiers'  feet  has  been  a  subject  of 
much  concern.  All  are  familiar  with  the  distressing  plight  of  the 
Revolutionary  Forces  during  the  winter  at  Valley  Forge,  when  the 
soldiers  were  compelled  to  swathe  their  bruised  and  bleeding  feet 
in  strips  of  blanket,  or  whatever  other  material  was  to  be  had.  These 
conditions  were  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the  limited  facilities  for 
producing  shoes  in  large  quantities,  as  at  that  time  they  were  made 
entirely  by  hand,  which  involved  a  slow,  laborious  process. 

During  the  Civil  War  similar  conditions  were  avoided  by  the  use 
of  machinery,  particularly  the  McKay  sewing  machine,  a  then  re- 
cently perfected  invention  for  attaching  the  bottoms  of  shoes,  which 
permitted  their  manufacture  with  greater  rapidity  and  in  larger 
numbers.  Because  of  the  ideal  industrial  conditions  existing  in  New 
England,  its  short,  swift  rivers  and  comparatively  dense  population, 
the  North  was  in  a  much  better  position  to  make  use  of  this  invention 
than  the  South,  and  it  is  thought  that  the  advantage  thus  gained 
aided  materially  in  the  success  of  the  northern  cause. 

Previous  to  the  introduction  of  the  McKay  machine,  shoes  were 
of  the  hand-pegged  or  hand-nailed  type,  while  by  the  use  of  this 
machine  the  outsole,  upper,  and  insole  were  united  by  a  waxed  thread. 
Since  the  ridge  of  stitches  laid  on  the  insole  by  the  latter  process 
was  a  frequent  cause  of  discomfort  to  the  wearer,  this  type  of  con- 
struction was  considered  unsuitable  for  Army  shoes  and  was  dis- 
placed shortly  after  the  Civil  War  by  the  hand-welt  shoe,  which  also 
possessed  greater  flexibility.  By  this  method  the  welt  and  upper  are 
sewed  to  the  channeled  insole,  leaving  an  inside  surface  on  which  no 
stitching  appears,  but  since  the  process  was  slow  and  expensive  its 
use  in  Army  shoes  was  discontinued  about  the  year  1878  and  the  so- 
called  standard  screw  shoe  adopted.  In  this  form  of  construction 
the  outsole  is  fastened  to  the  insole  by  means  of  a  heavy  threaded 
wire  which  is  mechanically  screwed  through  the  parts  to  be  fastened 
and  automatically  cut  off  at  the  required  length.  This  method  of 
uniting  the  soles  forms  a  very  secure  fastening,  but  it  makes  an 
extremely  rigid  bottom,  and  as  the  metal  fastenings  act  as  free  con- 
ductors it  has  the  additional  disadvantage  in  cold  climates  of  causing 
great  discomfort,  if  not  actual  suffering,  to  the  wearer. 

After  a  period  of  experimenting  with  the  metallic  fastened  shoe 
the  welt  shoe  was  again  adopted  for  the  Army,  but  with  the  dif- 
ference that,  while  the  welt  was  still  sewed  by  hand,  the  outsole  was 
attached  to  the  welt  by  the  use  of  the  Goodyear  lock-stitch  machine, 
which  had  in  the  meantime  been  developed. 

5 


6  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

In  order  to  facilitate  production,  the  specification  was  changed 
during  the  Spanish  War  to  permit  both  welt  and  outsole  stitching 
to  be  done  by  machinery.  This,  on  the  whole,  has  proved  by  far  the 
niost  satisfactory  method  yet  devised  from  the  standpoint  of  dura- 
bility and  rapidity  of  production. 

The  method  of  construction  having  been  definitely  decided  upon, 
efforts  were  directed  toward  improving  the  Army  last.  In  May, 
1912,  a  board  of  officers  consisting  of  Maj.  E.  L.  Munson,  Medical 
Corps;  Capt.  W.  J.  Glasgow,  General  Staff;  Capt.  J.  E.  R.  Hannay 
and  Lieut.  B.  F.  Miller,  Infantry,  convened  at  Fort  Leavenworth, 
Kans.,  designed  an  experimental  shoe,  the  last  of  which  differed  from 
that  then  in  use  in  the  following  respects : 

1.  The  inner  line  of  the  sole  in  front  of  the  ball  was  straight- 

ened. 

2.  ±*art  of  the  waste  space  from  the  end  of  the  little  toe  to  the 

front  end  of  the  shoe  was  eliminated. 

3.  The  width  of  the  heel  was  reduced  approximately  one-six- 

teenth of  an  inch  in  its  upper  portion,  leaving  the  heel 
seat  corresponding  to  the  bearing  surface  of  the  heel  on 
the  ground  the  same  as  before. 

The  straightening  of  the  inner  line  of  the  sole  was  intended  to  give 
more  width  in  the  forepart  to  provide  for  the  spreading  of  the  sol- 
dier's foot  when  carrying  a  heavy  burden.  The  results  obtained  from 
the  testing  of  this  shoe  were  so  satisfactory  that  both  shoe  and  last 
were  adopted  for  Army  use  and  have  ever  since  been  referred  to  as 
the  "  Munson." 

In  the  recent  Great  War,  since  the  development  of  trench  w^arfare 
seemed  to  require  a  shoe  of  heavier  and  more  waterproof  construc- 
tion than  the  Munson  shoe  then  in  use,  the  Army  adopted  a  shoe 
copied  largely  from  those  used  by  the  Allies.  This  was  commonly 
known  as  the  "  Pershing,"  a  very  heavy  shoe,  the  soles  of  which  are 
metallic  fastened  and  which  is  probably  more  waterproof  than  the 
regular  welt  shoe,  and  therefore  suitable  for  trench  warfare  or  for 
use  where  very  little  marching  is  required.  However,  the  lack  of 
flexibility  and  the  conductivity  of  its  metal  fastenings  make  it  an 
unsatisf  actoy  general-purpose  shoe,  especially  where  rapid  marching 
is  necessary.  While  this  type  of  shoe  lends  itself  to  rapid  manufac- 
ture, and  its  heavy  construction  results  in  greater  durability  and 
therefore  economy  of  material,  this  economy  is  more  than  offset  by 
the  reduced  effectiveness  on  mobile  troops. 

Since  the  signing  of  the  armistice  the  Army  shoe  has  again  re- 
verted to  the  Goodyear  type,  and  while  it  is  of  heavier  construction 
than  the  former  welt  shoe,  yet  it  provides  comfort,  neatness  of  ap-  f 
pearance,  and  durability,  the  latter  feature  of  which  may  be  in- 
creased by  the  insertion  of  hobnails  and  the  addition  of  heelplates. 
Inasmuch  as  the  possibility  of  salvage  is  an  important  item  in  the 
life  of  the  Army  shoe,  the  Goodyear  stitching  is  especially  satisfac- 
tory, since  the  worn  sole  of  a  welt  shoe  can  be  more  easily  and  ad- 
vantageously replaced  than  that  of  any  other  type,  the  new  sole  being 
attached  by  stitching  or  nailing,  either  by  machine  or  by  hand,  while 
the  removing  of  the  worn  sole  of  a  standard  screw  shoe  is  only  ac- 
complished with  difficulty  and  the  new  sole  can  only  be  attached  by 
nailing. 


Chapter  II. 
PURCHASE   OF  UNITED  STATES  ARMY  SHOES. 


SCOPE  OF  SUBJECT. 

The  matters  taken  up  under  purchase  are  to  be  considered  only  in 
so  far  as  they  exert  an  influence  on  production,  and  the  statements 
set  forth  are  in  the  nature  of  suggestions  tendered  from  experience, 
aiming  at  an  even  closer  cooperation  between  the  Purchase  Branch 
and  the  department  having  charge  of  production. 

KNOWLEDGE  OF  NEEDS  OF  THE  ARMY. 

It  should  be  appreciated  that  the  problems  confronting  the  pur- 
chasing officer  are  numerous  and  intricate.  The  very  foundation 
upon  which  the  success  of  his  task  depends  is  an  accurate  knowledge 
of  the  needs  of  the  Army.  It  is  not  a  difficult  proposition  to  estimate 
to  a  reasonable  degree  of  exactness  the  average  life  of  the  average 
Army  shoe,  and  knowing  the  size  of  the  standing  Army  one  ought 
to  figure  out  with  corresponding  accuracy  the  requirements  of  the 
Army  for  a  definite  period.  This  refers  to  the  needs  under  normal 
conditions,  it  being  assumed  that  arrangements  will  be  made  whereby 
emergencies  are  to  be  taken  care  of  by  the  manufacture  and  storage 
of  a  certain  number  of  shoes.  However,  a  mere  knowledge  of  the 
quantity  of  shoes  to  be  manufactured  is  insufficient.  The  purchasing 
officer  must  also  have  at  hand  an  accurate  schedule  of  the  apportion- 
ment of  the  shoes  according  to  sizes  and  widths. 

TARIFF  OF  SIZES. 

During  the  recent  emergency  mistakes  in  ordering,  coupled  with 
insufficient  knowledge  of  conditions  confronting  the  Army  in  France, 
resulted  in  an  excessive  accumulation  of  small-sized  shoes,  a  condi- 
tion which  was  overcome  by  the  issuance  of  an  emergency  tariff 
affecting  all  uncompleted  contracts.  Any  change  of  tariff  on  con- 
tracts in  the  process  of  production  causes  the  disruption  and  practical 
suspension  of  both  the  factory  and  production  organizations  and 
becomes  a  source  of  expense  to  the  manufacturer  and  to  the  Govern- 
ment. The  Government  must  provide  for  the  distribution  of  addi- 
tional shoe  lasts  to  meet  the  change  in  deliveries  as  provided  for 
under  the  new  tariff.  The  contractors  must  purchase  new  dies,  car- 
tons, and  cases,  and  those  not  cutting  their  own  soles  must  revise 
their  sole-leather  commitments.  Previous  to  the  application  of  the 
new  tariff  manufacturers  were  able  to  purchase  cut  soles  in  assorted 
sizes  at  so  much  per  pair,  regardless  of  size,  but  the  great  demand 
for  large  sizes  having  been  made  known  to  the  tanners  caused  the 

7 


8  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

latter  to  set  a  price  on  each  size  sole,  resulting  in  an  unforeseen 
expense  to  the  contractor. 

It  is  suggested,  in  the  event  of  a  similar  emergency,  that  manu- 
facturers be  permitted  to  complete  contracts  in  process,  the  special 
requirements  being  taken  care  of  by  additional  contracts  or  open- 
market  purchase  orders.  The  arguments  in  favor  of  this  procedure 
are,  first,  that  production  will  not  be  disrupted;  second,  that  the 
Government  will  receive  shoes  of  sizes  and  widths  that  will  eventu- 
ally become  useful ;  and,  last,  that  the  Government  will  be  saved  the 
expense  of   an   adjustment   to   the   manufacturer   for   the    damage 

incurred. 

KNOWLEDGE  OF  MATERIAL. 

Of  importance  second  only  to  a  knowledge  of  the  number  of  shoes 
required  for  a  given  period  is  the  purchasing  officer's  familiarity  with 
materials  appropriate  to  the  conditions  under  which  the  shoes  are 
to  be  worn  and  foresight  as  to  what  these  conditions  will  be.  The 
garrison  shoe,  the  trench  shoe,  and  the  marching  shoe,  for  instance, 
have  been  planned  for  widely  varying  purposes,  each  of  which  neces- 
sitates consideration  of  appropriate  material,  weight,  and  construc- 
tion. Knowledge  of  material  required  should  be  acquired  from  one 
having  had  actual  experience,  either  in  the  making  or  handling  of 
the  same.  A  distinct  advantage  to  the  Government  would  result 
from  a  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  purchasing  officer  of  the  amount 
of  material  required  and  available  for  proposed  contracts.  Difficul- 
ties arising  from  a  shortage  of  material  would  be  obviated  by  appris- 
ing the  tanners  of  sole  and  upper  leather  and  the  shoe  finding  houses, 
directly  or  indirectly,  of  contemplated  contracts,  since  the  producers, 
having  been  informed  of  the  quality  and  quantity  of  material  pre- 
scribed, could  immediately  place  themselves  in  readiness  to  meet  said 
requirements.  This  is  especially  desirable  in  regard  to  upper  leather 
because  of  the  fact  that  it  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  produce  suitable 
upper  leather  in  large  quantities  at  a  short  notice  without  some  minor 
defects  arising  from  time  to  time  in  the  leather,  either  in  the  line  of 
color  or  general  quality. 

COST  OF  MATERIALS. 

Another  feature  which  should  be  elaborated  on  is  the  relation 
between  a  sufficient  notice  to  the  manufacturer  and  the  question  of 
the  cost  of  the  shoe,  it  being  presumed  that  a  contractor  called  upon 
to  submit  a  bid  within  a  period  of  10  or  15  days  from  the  date  of 
receiving  notice  of  impending  awards  would  not  be  given  sufficient 
opportunity  to  obtain  as  low  figures  on  his  estimated  cost  of  mate- 
rial as  in  a  30  to  60  day  interval,  and  would  be  compelled  to  submit 
a  bid  less  advantageous  to  the  United  States;  moreover,  an  early 
notice  to  manufacturers  as  to  the  quality  and  quantity  of  materials 
to  be  used  will  ordinarily  result  in  materials  of  higher  standard  and 
facilitated  production. 

OPPORTUNE  TIME   FOR  PURCHASING. 

The  actual  purchase  of  any  type  of  shoes  in  large  quantities 
should,  when  possible,  be  made  at  a  time  of  year  known  to  the  shoe 
trade  as  "between  runs."  a  period  when  the  market  is  more  often 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  9 

at  its  lowest  ebb  and  the  manufacturer  is  in  a  position  to  take  con- 
tracts at  a  lower  fi«:ure  in  order  to  equalize  his  overhead.  This 
requires  that  the  purchasing  agent  should  at  all  times  be  in  a  posi- 
tion to  purchase  whenever  he  could  do  so  advantageously,  and  that 
having  a  fairly  accurate  knowledge  of  the  materials  to  be  used  he 
should  follow^  the  market  quotations  to  some  extent.  The  necessity 
of  the  purchasing  officer's  knowledge  of  the  cost  to  the  manufacturer 
of  the  type  of  shoe  anticipated  can  hardly  be  overestimated.  With  a 
loiowledge  of  the  prevailing  market  quotations  on  the  items  to  be 
used,  plus  a  schedule  at  hand  of  the  quantity  of  each  material  re- 
quired for  a  pair  of  shoes  in  accordance  with  each  set  of  specifica- 
tions, an  approximately  correct  estimate  of  the  cost  of  materials 
to  the  manufacturer  can  readily  be  compiled. 

COST  OF  MANUFACTURING. 

The  other  three  factors  upon  which  the  manufacturer  bases  his 
bid  are  labor,  profit,  and  overhead.  A  comparative  study  of  the 
cost  to  contractors  in  manufacturing  Government  shoes,  made  under 
the  supervision  of  the  Boston  depot  on  contracts  completed  March 
1,  1919,  showed  that  the  total  cost  for  the  various  operations  ranged 
from  a  minimum  of  $0.5663  to  a  maximum  of  $0.6427  per  pair,  with 
an  average  of  $0,609.  It  is  not  intended,  however,  that  this  average 
quoted  should  influence  to  any  great  extent  the  prices  on  future 
contracts,  since  the  unsettled  labor  conditions  existing  up  to  the 
present  time  render  the  adopting  of  even  a  semistandard  for  this 
item  a  present  impossibility,  it  being  necessary  to  ascertain  the 
schedule  of  costs  applicable  at  the  time  of  each  and  every  award. 

OVERHEAD. 

Of  the  four  factors  upon  w^hich  a  bid  is  based,  the  most  difficult 
to  estimate  is  the  question  of  overhead,  which  may  be  divided  roughly 
into  five  classes :  First,  cost  of  administration,  consisting  of  general 
executive  overhead  (this  is  generally  less  in  a  small  factory,  where 
one  chief  executive  accomplishes  tasks  that  range  from  the  duties  of 
the  president  down  to  those  of  a  foreman)  ;  second,  cost  of  manu- 
facturing, including  w^ear  and  tear  on  machinery;  third,  losses  in 
factory  organization;  fourth,  losses  on  special  facilities;  fifth,  losses 
on  the  curve  of  costs. 

The  so-called  "  losses  in  factory  organization  "  may  be  explained 
by  stating  that  during  the  process  of  manufacturing  any  type  of 
shoe,  the  personnel  of  the  factory,  becoming  more  and  more  ac- 
customed to  that  type  of  work,  turn  out  each  task  with  increased 
speed.  Each  department  is  brought  to  a  state  of  efficiency  in  co- 
operating with  the  other  departments.  Work  leaving  one  depart- 
ment arrives  at  the  next  at  the  proper  time.  Upon  the  adoption  of 
a  different  type  of  shoe,  however,  the  machinery  requires  intricate 
readjustment  and  employees  are  also  forced  to  accustom  themselves 
to  new  conditions.  There  is  a  period  of  readjustment.  In  a  word, 
the  harmony  of  the  organization  has  been  interrupted.  • 

"Losses  on  special  facilities"  covers  the  costs  of  rearranging  the 
factory,  moving  around  departments,  and  installing  new  machinery. 


10  AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

The  "  losses  on  the  curve  of  costs "  require  a  more  detailed  ex- 
planation, and  should  be  divided  into  three  groups,  consisting  of  loss 
on  labor,  loss  on  upper  leather,  and  loss  on  sole  leather.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  distinguish  clearly  between  the  loss  on  labor  as  mentioned 
under  the  curve  of  costs  and  the  loss  in  factory  organization  pre- 
viously explained.  This  subdivision  refers,  generally  spealring,  to 
the  individuals  who  actually  perform  the  work.  It  is  an  accepted 
fact  that  employees  working  upon  Government  contracts  because  of 
the  exactness  of  workmanship  required,  are  better  paid  than  those 
working  upon  civilian  orders,  and  that  upon  the  termination  of  a 
contract  the  employees  are  usually  unwilling  to  return  to  the  former 
wage  scale.  One  of  two  conditions  must  then  result,  either  the  manu- 
facturer is  deprived  of  many  of  his  experienced  workers  or  he  is 
forced  to  maintain  the  same  standard  of  wages  at  a  diminished  profit. 
Upon  starting  on  a  new  contract  each  laborer  is  forced  to  produce 
more  slowly,  which,  if  he  is  on  a  piecework  schedule,  results  in  the 
beginning  in  his  individual  loss,  but  if  on  a  time  schedule  results 
in  a  loss  to  the  manufacturer.  The  cutting  of  the  upper  and  sole 
leather  at  first  is  somewhat  in  the  nature  of  an  experiment  which 
continues  with  increased  efficiency  as  the  contract  proceeds.  These 
losses  on  the  curve  of  costs,  generally  speaking,  are  finally  overcome 
by  corresponding  gains  in  the  latter  portion  of  the  contract,  provid- 
ing it  is  of  sufficient  magnitude. 

At  the  time  it  became  necessary  to  terminate  Government  contracts, 
after  the  signing  of  the  armistice,  the  estimates  compiled  in  order 
to  compensate  the  manufacturer  for  overhead  on  contracts  that  were 
terminated  was  37^  cents  for  each  pair  of  shoes  undelivered.  A  set 
of  figures  compiled  at  this  office  from  investigations  made  at  the 
factories  resulted  in  an  estimate  of  38  cents  per  pair,  apportioned  as 
follows:  Losses  due  to  administration  costs,  including  all  costs  of 
general  executive  overhead,  5  cents;  manufacturing  costs,  including 
losses  on  clicking  dies,  upper  leather  patterns,  miscellaneous  dies 
and  patterns,  and  losses  in  operating  costs  in  factory,  1  cent;  losses 
in  factory  organization,  plus  rejects,  15  cents;  losses  on  special  fa- 
cilities, such  as  cost  of  moving  around  departments,  rearranging  fac- 
tory, loss  on  machinery  while  idle,  etc.,  5  cents;  loss  on  curve  of  costs, 
12  cents  (labor  5  cents,  upper  leather  3  cents,  sole  leather  4  cents) ; 
total,  38  cents. 

While  the  cost  of  labor  and  material  is  in  proportion  to  the  num- 
ber of  pairs  of  shoes  being  manufactured,  this  is  not  true  of  the 
overhead  expense,  since  the  majority  of  its  constituent  elements,  such 
as  salaries  and  heating  and  lighting  expenses,  are  practically  fixed. 
This  results  in  a  large  percentage  of  overhead  per  pair  when  the 
output  is  small  and  in  a  corresponding  decrease  with  an  increased 
output. 

ADVANTAGE  TO  PURCHASING  OFFICER  OF  ABOVE  KNOWLEDGE. 

The  necessity  for  the  purchasing  officer  having  knowledge  of  the 
cost  to  the  manufacturer  having  been  previously  referred  to,  the 
question  arises  as  to  what  value  this  information  would  be.  In  the 
past  manufacturers  contemplating  bids  would  often  collaborate,  the 
result  of  such  discussions  frequently  being  an  increase  of  the  price 
previously  decided  on.  With  a  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  cost  to  the  contractor,  the  purchasing  officer  would 


ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  11 

be  in  a  position  to  refuse  bids  involving  excessive  profits,  and,  more- 
over, the  incentive  to  underbid  on  the  part  of  the  competing  com- 
panies would  be  increased. 

PURCHASE  OF  LASTS. 

Inasmuch  as  shoes  can  not  be  made  without  lasts  it  is  obvious  that 
a  general  survey  of  the  last  situation  should  be  taken  previous  to, 
the  awarding  of  contracts.  Records  on  file  should  show  the  number* 
of  pairs  of  each  style  of  lasts  in  existence  in  each  zone,  and,  in  addi- 
tion to  this,  the  number  of  pairs  in  use  on  contracts  already  awarded 
in  order  to  determine  the  quantity  available  at  any  given  time.  A 
table  of  the  numbers  of  lasts  required  for  making  a  given  number  of 
shoes  in  a  given  time,  together  with  perfected  data  on  the  manufac- 
ture, distribution,  and  storage  of  shoe  lasts,  devised  and  arranged 
by  the  writer,  and  made  use  of  during  the  late  emergency,  is  on  file 
and  available  at  this  office.  By  following  out  the  information  con- 
tained therein,  all  causes  arising  from  delays  occasioned  by  the  non- 
receipt  and  inadequacy  of  numbers  of  lasts  would  be  eliminated. 

KNOWLEDGE   OF   FACTORY   CONDITIONS. 

The  greatest  difficulty  contended  with  after  the  award  of  the  con- 
tracts has  been  the  daily  capacity  of  the  contractor.  In  the  past 
contracts  have  been  awarded  requiring  a  daily  production  which  the 
manufacturer,  through  insufficient  amount  of  machinery  or  operators, 
or  owing  to  lack  of  factory  organization,  was  utterly  unable  to  at- 
tain. An  actual  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  purchasing  officer  of 
the  daily  capacity  of  a  prospective  contractor  would  enable  him  to 
award  contracts  which  would  result  in  the  most  facilitated  produc- 
tion. During  the  war  this  office  was  able  to  obtain  a  degree  of  effi- 
ciency only  by  entirely  disregarding  the  production  as  required  in 
the  terms  of  the  contracts  and  figuring  production  on  the  daily 
capacity  of  the  contractor,  and  the  existing  factory  conditions. 

In  accordance  with  the  terms  of  contracts  previously  awarded,  a 
manufacturer  who  failed  to  deliver  shoes  within  the  time  specified 
was  subject  to  penalty.  Invariably  in  deciding  whether  the  penalty 
was  to  be  imposed,  fine  judgment  had  to  be  exercised  in  order  to  pro- 
tect the  interests  of  the  Government  without  injuring  the  manu- 
facturer. During  the  emergency  when  contracts  were  practically 
forced  upon  contractors  it  did  not  seem  equitable  to  fine  a  man  who 
was  called  upon  to  make  more  shoes  per  day  than  his  daily  capacity 
and  factory  conditions  would  warrant. 

SUMMARY. 

It  is  felt  that  a  great  part  of  the  confusion  and  annoyance  en- 
countered in  the  manufacture  and  inspection  of  shoes  could  be 
obviated  providing  the  suggestions  hereinbefore  mentioned  were 
carried  out,  and  that  a  high  spirit  of  cooperation  could  exist  among 
the  three  parties  concerned,  the  Purchase  Branch,  the  Production 
Branch,  and  the  contractor.  Peculiar  situations  in  the  past  have 
arisen  where  the  manufacturer  felt  favorably  toward  one  and  ill 
disposed  toward  the  other,  in  which  case  the  result  would  appear 
in  the  firlished  shoe ;  but  if  the  high  standard  established  is  to  be  main- 
tained, all  ideas  or  feelings  of  conflict  must  be  entirely  eliminated. 


Chapter  III. 

NECESSITY  FOR  INSPECTION  OF  MATERIALS  USED  IN, 
AND  THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF,  ARMY  SHOES. 


OBJECTION  TO  INSPECTION. 

A  considerable  number  of  people,  including  several  manufac- 
turers, sincerely  believe  that  the  somewhat  elaborate  system  of  in- 
spection of  Army  shoes  is  entirely  unnecessary  inasmuch  as  the 
manufacturers  are  honorable  business  men  who  would  construct 
shoes  in  accordance  with  the  written  specifications  without  the 
presence  of  Government  inspectors  in  their  respective  factories. 
It  is  believed  that  this  feeling  is  based  upon  the  theory  that  the 
system  in  question  required  too  great  an  expenditure  of  money, 
which  must  of  necessity  be  raised  by  taxation. 

COST  OF  INSPECTION. 

It  has  been  definitely  ascertained  that  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes 
of  any  grade  or  in  any  quantity  it  is  inevitable  that  a  certain  per- 
centage will  be  ruined  beyond  the  possibility  of  repair,  while  another 
certain  percentage  w^ill  be  partially  damaged.  This  condition  is 
due  to  careless  workmanship  and  will  prevail  as  long  as  shoes  are 
made  by  human  hands.  An  examination  of  the  general  conditions 
prevailing  in  the  manufacture  of  commercial  shoes,  a  study  having 
been  made  of  several  concerns,  showed  that  the  amount  of  damaged 
civilian  shoes,  including  both  wholly  damaged  and  partially  dam- 
aged, varies  from  3.5  to  5.2  per  cent.  Assuming  that  this  same  per- 
centage held  true  on  Army  shoes,  the  financial  loss  to  the  Govern- 
ment would  approximate  at  least  three  times  the  cost  of  inspection. 

In  support  of  this  statement  the  following  data  is  presented 
regarding  the  actual  cost  of  the  inspection  of  shoes  manufactured 
under  the  supervision  of  the  Boston  depot  from  April,  1917,  to 
April,  1919,  inclusive : 

Total  pairs  of  shoes  manufactured 18, 912, 0931 

Average  price  per  pair $5.  45 

Total   value $103, 115.  384.  44 

Cost  of  inspection $3,118,992.90 

Cost  of  inspection  per  pair $0.  05916 

Cost  of  inspection  per  dollar $0.  0108 

From  the  figures  as  given  above,  showing  the  percent  of  inspec- 
tion cost  at  the  Boston  depot,  the  deduction  may  be  made  that  if 
only  one  pair  of  shoes  out  of  every  92  pairs  were  defective,  said  one 
pair  having  been  rejected  by  the  inspector,  the  Government  would 
not  have  sustained  any  financial  loss  by  reason  of  the  cost  of 
inspection. 

12 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  13 

MUTUAL    UNDERSTANDING    OF    SPECIFICATIONS. 

Under  the  present  system  of  inspection,  upon  receipt  of  a  con- 
tract for  the  manufacture  of  shoes,  the  entire  contract,  with  all  its 
specifications  and  other  instructions,  is  given  a  very  careful  study 
by  the  officer  in  charge,  and  when  it  is  found  that  the  responsible 
officer  and  interested  Government  employees  have  a  thorough,  mu- 
tual understanding  of  llie  requirements  of  the  contract  steps  are 
then  taken  to  get  in  touch  Avith  the  contractor  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
suring his  thorough  understanding  of  said  requirements  in  order 
to  avoid  any  disagreements  or  misunderstandings  before  actual 
production  is  started. 

GENERAL  DUTIES  OF  FACTORY  INSPECTORS. 

From  time  to  time  as  the  material  is  received  and  the  progress  of 
the  work  advances,  Government  inspectors  are  installed  in  the  fac- 
tory, each  skilled  in  his  line,  whose  duties  are  to  examine  every 
piece  of  leather  that  goes  into  the  shoe,  to  stamp  each  sole-leather 
part  with  a  Government  stamp,  and  to  supervise  the  assembling  of 
the  seA'eral  parts  and  the  proper  performance  of  each  operation 
during  the  process  of  construction.  Inspectors  assigned  to  factory 
duties  serve  in  an  advisory  capacity,  and  their  acceptance  of  any 
inferior  material  or  defective  workmanship  in  no  manner  obligates 
the  Government  to  accept  the  same. 

FINAL   INSPECTION. 

After  the  shoes  are  finished  they  are  then  shipped  to  the  Zone 
Supply  Officer  in  order  that  final  inspectors  may  pass  upon  their  actual 
acceptance  or  rejection.  While  it  is  always  assumed  .that  every  oper- 
ation of  the  shoe  has  been  rigidly  inspected  before  the  final  product 
is  delivered  to  the  Government,  it  frequently  happens,  especially 
where  the  volume  of  production  is  large,  that  no  matter  how  vigilant 
a  resident  inspector  may  be  a  certain  percentage  of  shoes  which  are 
unsatisfactory  for  one  reason  or  another  find  their  way  into  the 
Army  Base,  where  they  are  eliminated  in  the  final  inspection  room. 

The  reason  for  having  final  inspection  at  the  Army  Base  rather 
than  at  the  factory  of  the  contractor  is  to  remove  the  inspector  Avho 
has  authority  to  finally  accept  or  reject  the  completed  product  from 
any  influence  that  might  consciously,  or  unconsciously,  affect  his 
judgment. 

It  is  stated,  without  fear  of  just  criticism,  that  the  difference  in 
the  standard  of  the  shoe  since  the  present  system  has  been  adopted 
has  warranted  the  change  from  the  old  svstem  of  havincf  final  in- 
spection  at  the  factory  of  the  contractor.  By  this  method  every  pre- 
caution is  taken,  and  the  Government  is  reasonablv  certain  that  its 
interests  are  properly  protected  and  that  its  soldiers  will  receive  noth- 
ing but  the  very  best. 

RESULTS  OF  INSPECTION. 

The  policy  of  the  Quartermaster  Department  in  placing  trained 
inspectors  in  factories  of  private  corporations  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  shoes  for  the  United  States  Army  has  amply  justified  itself 


14  AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

during  the  years  1917,  1918,  and  1919,  and  the  expert  inspection  of 
materials  and  the  supervision  of  construction  by  Government  inspec- 
tors have  saved  many  thousands  of  dollars  to  the  Government  by  the 
rejection  of  inferior  material  and  shoes  of  defective  workmanship, 
and  have,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  prevented  discomfort  to 
countless  numbers  of  soldiers  to  whom  but  for  the  careful  inspection 
given  there  might  have  been  issued  defective  and  ill-fitting  shoes 
with  rough,  broken,  or  uneven  interior  surfaces. 

PRACTICES  LEGITIMATE  AND  OTHERWISE. 

Although  isolated  instances  may  be  quoted  of  unscrupulous  con- 
tractors who  have  deliberated  attempted  to  defraud  the  Government 
by  the  use  of  inferior  material,  false  stamps,  and  bribery,  these  at- 
tempts have  been  promptly  discovered  and  the  offenders  brought  to 
justice.  It  must  net  be  inferred  that  all  manufacturers  nor,  indeed, 
any  considerable  number  of  those  who  assumed  contracts  to  make 
Army  shoes  were  dishonest,  as  such  is  far  from  being  the  case;  yet  it 
often  happens  that  contracts  for  shoes  are  issued  to  concerns  whose 
specialty  is  the  manufacture  of  civilian  shoes  of  the  cheaper  grades, 
and  practices  common  and  considered  legitimate  in  a  factory  making 
this  grade  of  shoes  are,  to  say  the  least,  unsatisfactory  when  dura- 
bility of  the  finished  Army  shoe  is  considered. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  after  a  contract  is  awarded  to  a 
manufacturer  it  is  usually  turned  over  to  his  order  department, 
which  in  turn  passes  the  same  over  to  the  superintendent  of  the  f  ac- 
torv  in  which  the  shoes  are  to  be  manufactured.  Either  through  a 
mistaken  sense  of  duty  to  their  employer  or  lack  of  knowledge  of 
better  methods,  these  superintendents  or  their  assistants  often  at- 
tempt to  employ  the  foregoing  methods  in  constructing  Army  shoes, 
so  that  it  is  only  through  the  insistent  watchfulness  of  the  inspectors 
that  this  is  prevented.  The  shoes  that  are  partly  damaged,  if  proper 
care  is  taken  in  repairing,  can  be  made  good  by  replacing  the  damaged 
part  with  a  new  part.  This  method  entails  a  loss  of  time  and  money 
to  the  manufacturer,  and  also  reflects  upon  the  efficiency  of  the  fore- 
man. Consequently,  it  is  here  that  certain  practices  commonly  re- 
ferred to  as  "  tricks  of  the  trade  "  are  brought  into  play.  These 
practices  will  be  touched  on  in  detail  further  on.  A  competent  in- 
spector at  this  stage  of  the  game  saves  the  Government  much  more 
than  the  cost  of  his  services. 

UPPER  LEATHER. 

It  often  happens  that  a  prospective  contractor  submits  with  his  bid 
a  sample  of  upper  leather  showing  the  grade  and  tannage  from 
which  he  proposes  to  make  the  shoes  if  his  bid  is  accepted.  Dpon 
receiving  a  contract  it  may  be  found  that  he  has  committed  himself 
for  a  sufficient  amount  of  leather  of  the  tannage  submitted  but  that 
it  is  what  is  known  as  "  table  run,"  and  the  sample  submitted  to,  and 
approved  by,  the  purchasing  officer  represents  but  a  very  small  por- 
tion of  the  amount  committed  for.  If  this  leather  is  rejected  in  the 
side,  the  contractor  must  go  into  the  market  and  purchase  suitable 
leather,  oftentimes  at  an  increased  cost.    If  it  is  used,  the  percentage 


AKMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  15 

of  rejected  pieces  is  so  great  that  the  loss  to  the  manufacturer  is  con- 
siderable. The  only  place  where  defects  of  this  nature  can  be  de- 
tected is  in  the  cutting  room.  Here  the  upper  leather  inspector  stands 
firm  but  tactful,  according  the  contractor  fair  treatment,  while  se- 
curing for  the  Government  a  full  measure  of  value. 

This  situation  has  given  rise  to  many  vigorous  protests  on  the 
part  of  contractors  against  what  they  claim  to  be  unfair  inspection. 
Although  all  complaints  received  from  contractors  of  this  or  any 
other  nature  are  promptly,  carefully,  and  impartially  investigated 
by  Government  representatives,  it  has  rarely  been  found  necessary  to 
reverse  the  decision  of  the  inspector. 

FINDINGS. 

It  may  be,  and  indeed  often  has  been,  found  that  contractors  have 
been  furnished  by  subcontractors  with  findings  inferior  in  quality  to 
those  which  they  have  purchased.  Through  the  watchfulness  of  the 
inspector  and  the  established  practice  of  periodically  testing  samples 
of  thread  and  all  other  findings  used  in  Army  shoes,  it  has  been  pos- 
sible to  maintain  the  quality  of  these  findings  at  the  specified 
standard. 

ATTITUDE  OF  MANUFACTURERS. 

Manufacturers  who  have  achieved  a  most  enviable  reputation  in 
the  business  world  for  honesty  and  integrity  in  their  dealings  will  at 
first  resent  the  presence  of  Government  inspectors  in  their  plants, 
claiming  that  as  they  possess  the  requisite  knowledge  of  shoemaking 
no  advice  is  needed,  so  that  to  place  inspectors  to  watch  them  must 
be  to  impute  an  intention  to  evade  the  honest  fulfillment  of  their 
contractual  obligations.  Superintendents  and  their  assistants  often 
entertain  this  same  feeling  of  resentment,  though  for  somewhat  dif- 
ferent reasons.  In  the  course  of  later  events,  however,  these  same 
manufacturers  have  become  appreciative  of  the  valuable  assistance 
rendered  by  the  inspectors,  who,  because  of  their  intimate  knowledge 
of  the  requirements  of  the  Government,  are  able  to  show  the  way  out 
of  the  many  difficulties  which  arise. 

NECESSITY  FOR  MORE  THAN  FINAL  INSPECTION. 

Final  inspection  reveals  only  the  general  appearance  of  the 
shoe  as  to  color,  worlananship,  and  the  approximate  weight  of  the 
bottom  construction,  consequently  if  the  Government  were  to  buy 
shoes  the  quality  of  which  appealed  only  to  the  eye,  as  would  be  the 
result  if  final  inspection  alone  were  relied  upon,  there  would  be  no 
limit  to  which  the  contractors  might  go  in  the  use  of  inferior  leather, 
both  in  sole  leather  and  upper  leather,  and  also  in  the  quality 
of  findings,  as  well  as  in  the  technical  Avorkmanship  in  parts  of 
the  shoes  which  are  not  disclosed  after  the  sole  is  laid,  namely, 
broken  rib  on  inner  sole ;  torn  canvas ;  wrinkled  canvas ;  inner  soles  to 
which  the  welting  has  been  sewed  twice,  thereby  weakening  the  rib; 
insufficient  number  of  stitches;  lack  of  proper  tension  at  the  inseam- 
ing  operation ;  liability  of  trimming  inseam  too  close,  thereby  weaken- 


16  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

ing  the  seam;  defective  and  improper  forepart  bottom  filling;  in- 
sufficient amount  of  cement ;  defective  inner  soles,  middle  soles,  outer 
soles,  heels,  vamps,  counters,  and  top  lifts. 

UNIFORMITY  OF  INSPECTION  STANDARDS. 

It  is  believed  that  the  interests  of  both  the  Government  and 
the  contractors  demand  that  a  uniform  method  of  inspection  be 
maintained  in  the  several  zones  in  order  to  insure  equality  in  the 
bid  for,  and  the  manufacturing  of,  Army  shoes.  It  can  be  seen  that 
if  the  inspection  in  one  zone  is  of  a  high  standard  while  in  other 
zones  the  same  standard  is  not  maintained,  the  contractor  doing- 
business  in  the  zones  where  the  lower  standard  prevails  has  a  de- 
cided advantage  over  his  competitor  who  manufactures  in  the  zone 
where  the  higher  standard  is  insisted  upon.  Obviously  this  advan- 
tage must  work  to  the  detriment  of  the  interests  of  the  Government 
in  the  way  of  an  inferior  grade  of  finished  product. 

The  present  system  of  inspection  as  now  carried  out  in  this  zone 
is  the  result  of  research  and  represents  the  combined  judgment  of 
many  capable  men  employed  by  the  Government  during  the  war.  It 
is  believed  to  be  the  best  and  most  workable  that  has  been  devised, 
yet  no  claim  of  absolute  perfection  nor  of  infallibility  is  made,  for 
it.  Suggestions  for  its  improvement  from  whatever  source  have 
always  been  carefully  considered,  and  all  criticisms  have  been  wel- 
comed, except  when  they  have  come  from  an  obviously  biased  source 
and  have  been  of  a  destructive  rather  than  of  a  constructive  nature. 
Any  attempt  to  overthrow  the  system  of  inspection  as  now  installed 
by  the  adoption  of  anything  less  restrictive,  in  the  opinion  of  the 
writer,  would  result  in  the  acceptance  of  shoes  of  inferior  quality. 


Chapter  IV. 
INSTRUCTIONS  TO  INSPECTORS. 


QUALIFICATIONS   OF   AN   INSPECTOR. 

The  very  nature  of  the  work  which  the  inspector  is  called  upon  to 
do  makes  it  important  that  he  possess  many  high  qualifications. 
If  his  duties  are  to  be  performed  in  a  manner  which  will  insure 
justice  to  the  manufacturer  and  safety  of  the  Government's  in- 
terests, he  must  be  a  man  of  more  than  the  average  degree  of 
intelligence,  possessing  sound  judgment,  an  even  temperament,  and 
more  than  a  general  knowledge  of  the  science  of  shoemaking. 

RETENTION   OF  EFFICIENT  INSPECTORS. 

At  one  time  during  the  emergency  the  shoe  inspection  force  work- 
ing under  the  direction  of  the  Boston  Depot  reached  a  total  of  470 
men  gathered  from  the  principal  shoe  centers  of  New  England. 
Among  this  number  were  many  whose  knowledge  of  shoemaking  was 
complete  and  whose  years  of  previous  experience  made  them  familiar 
with  most  of  the  problems  which  are  to  be  encountered  in  the  course 
of  the  proper  making  of  a  shoe.  The  services  of  these  men  proved 
of  inestimable  value  to  the  Government,  and  by  a  system  of  checking 
at  this  office  the  work  of  each  man  was  carefully  tabulated  with 
reference  to  the  results  obtained,  the  method  of  obtaining  them,  and 
the  absence  or  presence  of  friction  between  him  and  the  factory 
executives.  It  was  possible,  by  a  simple  process  of  elimination  fol- 
lowing the  decrease  in  the  volume  oi  production,  to  retain  in  the 
Government  service  only  men  of  proved  ability,  although  many  of 
this  class  preferred  to  return  to  the  ranks  of  private  employees. 

CONDUCT  OF  INSPECTORS. 

The  manufacture  of  shoes  as  established  to-day  is  conducted  at 
the  expense  of  tremendous  nerve  energy  by  those  responsible  for  its 
successful  accomplishment.  In  view  of  the  fact  that  the  interests 
of  the  contractor  and  those  of  the  Government,  as  represented  by 
the  inspector,  will  at  times  seem  to  be  diametrically  opposed,  and  that 
occasions  must  arise  when  it  would  seem  a  complete  deadlock  has 
been  reached,  it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  patience  of 
both  parties  often  nears  the  point  of  exhaustion.  Having  these  con- 
ditions in  mind,  this  office  has  insisted  upon  the  observance  of  the 
following  general  instructions  and  words  of  advice  governing  the 
conduct  of  factory  inspectors : 

1.  At  the  outset  you  should  have  an  appreciative  understanding  of  the  treat- 
ment you  owe  to,  and  should  by  right  receive  from,  contractors  in  order  to 
insure  cooperation  between  the  contractor  and  the  Government  in  connection 

35285—21 2  17 


18  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

with  the  method  and  manner  of  the  construction  of,  as  well  as  the  material 
used  in,  Army  shoes. 

2.  As  you  are  to  act  as  a  business  agent  of  the  Government,  clothed  with 
authority  which  to  a  certain  extent  is  arbitrary,  it  is  expected  and  demanded 
that  you  conduct  yourself  at  all  times  in  a  manner  consistent  with  the  great 
interests  which  you  represent. 

3.  Your  actions  should  be  such  as  to  encourage  the  highest  opinion  of  the 
character  of  the  inspection  force. 

4.  As  you  are  in  a  measure  a  public  servant,  your  conduct  and  actions  when 
outside  the  factory  are  subject  to  public  criticism.  It  is  therefore  insisted  that 
you  refrain  from  any  action  that  would  tend  to  bring  the  name  of  the  inspection 
force  into  disrepute.  Card  playing  or  gambling  in  public  or  on  the  premises  of 
the  contractor,  the  use  of  profane  language,  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors,  and 
the  frequenting  of  questionable  resorts  are  positively  forbidden  under  penalty 
of  dismissal  from  the  service. 

5.  The  degree  of  yotir  success  will  depend  in  a  measure  upon  the  manner  in 
which  you  exercise  your  authority.  You  should  be  tactful  and  circumspect  in 
your  intercourse  with  the  contractor  and  also  his  employees.  Be  tolerant  of 
the  views  and  opinions  of  others,  and  always  welcome  an  opportunity  to  ex- 
plain your  reasons  for  any  decision  you  make. 

6.  Exercise  patience,  and  by  your  zeal  impress  upon  the  contractor  and  his 
executives  the  importance  of  your  duties. 

7.  You  must  keep  within  the  contract  requirements  in  your  demands,  and 
be  reasonable,  but  firm  and  untiring,  in  your  efforts  to  protect  the  interests  of 
the  Government. 

8.  If  you  are  arbitrary  and  unreasonable  in  the  use  of  the  power  that  is  vested 
in  you,  you  may  expect  to  receive  like  treatment  from  the  contractor.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  your  conduct  is  such  that  you  inrpress  the  manufacturer 
that  in  your  endeavor  to  protect  the  Government's  interests  you  are  not  un- 
mindful of  the  duties  you  owe  him,  you  will  usually  observe  the  good  results 
arising  from  your  endeavors  reflected  in  a  higher  grade  of  finished  product. 
Ever  be  mindful  of  the  fact  that  working  together  produces  better  results, 
while  antagonism  or  indifference  on  the  part  of  either  will  result  in  an  inferior 
grade  of  shoes. 

9.  You,  as  an  agent  of  the  Government,  are  only  interested  from  a  merit 
standpoint,  while  the  manufacturer  is  not  only  interested  in  the  matter  of 
merit  but  in  the  matter  of  profit.  You  should  take  into  consideration  the  fact 
that  unless  manufacturers  could  operate  at  a  profit,  the  making  of  Army  shoes 
would  be  an  unattractive  proposition,  and  no  reliable  individuals  or  corpora- 
tions would  be  available  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  Government. 

10.  A  manufacturer  is  a  component  part  of  the  Government,  and  as  such 
has  a  right  to  demand  that  you,  in  your  zeal  to  protect  the  Government's  inter- 
ests and  to  obtain  a  high-grade  article,  do  not  injure  him  in  his  business  by 
unreasonable  demands  or  i>ersonal  peculiarities. 

11.  Be  courteous — it  is  a  valuable  asset. 

12.  You  should  realize  that  a  man  who  has  made  shoes  for  years  and  is  a 
successful  shoe  manufacturer  feels  that  he  personally  knows,  or  at  least  has 
available  in  the  form  of  high-salaried  executives,  all  the  knowledge  of  the 
general  and  technical  questions  of  successful  shoemaking  obtainable.  If  you, 
through  lack  of  thorough  knowledge  of  the  point  involved,  make  a  demand  not 
founded  on  a  sound,  logical  basis,  the  fact  at  once  becomes  apparent  to  the 
manufacturer.  This  will  result  in  the  impression  that  you  do  not  understand 
your  work,  and  may  produce  a  feeling  on  his  part  that  he  could  easily  deceive 
you,  and  might  result  in  a  desire  to  do  so.  If  a  question  arises  and  you 
realize  your  inability  to  solve  it,  admit  the  fact  and  be  anxious  to  do  so,  as 
it  breeds  the  conclusion  that  you  go  only  so  far  as  you  are  absolutely  sure. 
If  the  proper  spirit  prevails,  it  is  not  difficult  to  solve  the  usual  problems  you 
will  be  confronted  with,  as  ordinarily  the  manufacturer  or  your  brother 
worker  knows  the  solution.  Be  sure,  then  proceed,  thus  insuring  the  Govern- 
ment against  damage. 

13.  If  the  tanners  and  producers  of  shoe  findings  furnish  proper  material 
and  the  manufacturer  and  his  superintendents  are  working  to  obtain  results, 
the  grade  of  the  finished  product  depends  upon  you.  If  you  are  indifferent, 
unreasonable,  arbitrary,  or  overimpressed  with  your  own  importance,  the 
quality  of  the  shoe  will  suffer. 

14.  What  a  manufacturer  says  about  you,  your  work,  or  your  knowledge 
is  of  no  importance  if  you  are  obtaining  results,  but  it  is  important  and 
desirable  that  you  obtain  these  results,  if  possible,  without  friction. 


AKMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  19 

15.  Every  point  in  the  specifications  that  may  seem  ambiguous  or  open  to 
more  than  one  interpretation  lias  been  ofiiclally  interpreted  by  this  office. 
Every  inspector  has  been  informed  and  in^rtructed  regarding  these  points, 
therefore  you  must  never  argue  with  a  manufacturer  concerning  such  matters. 
He  may  still  insist  that  he  is  right  and  that  the  specifications  are  wrong. 
You  will  then  respectfully  inform  him  that  the  scope  of  your  authority  does 
not  permit  you  to  change  the  specifications.  While  this  office  will  insist  that 
the  deserving  inspector  be  treated  with  due  respect  and  consideration,  instances 
will  occur  when  even  abuse  and  vituperation  may  be  accepted  with  calm  dignity, 
having  in  mind  the  adage:  "He  tliat  has  no  case  nmst  abuse  his  opponent." 

IG.  Avoid  giving  the  impression  that  you  are  placed  in  a  plant  in  the  capacity 
of  a  spy  or  that  the  honorable  intentions  of  anyone  are  in  question.  Do  not 
hastily  conclude  that  every  violation  of  the  specifications  is  deliberate.  Even 
with  the  most  earnest  cooperation  on  the  part  of  the  manufacturer  and  his 
superintendent  it  is  difficult  to  always  maintain  a  high  standard  of  workman- 
ship and  material.  While  you  should  ever  be  w^atchful  and  alert  for  dishon- 
esty as  well  as  poor  workmanship,  you  must  reserve  judgment  until  such  time 
as  proofs  of  chicanery  are  positive.  Impress  upon  the  minds  of  those  with 
'whom  you  come  in  contact  that  you  consider  the  interests  of  the  manufacturer 
and  the  Government  identical.  Inasmuch  as  rejected  shoes  are  a  source  of 
much  loss  to  the  contractor,  all  your  efforts  are  devoted  to  complete  such  a 
shoe  that  no  subsequent  inspection  or  test  will  reveal  cause  for  rejection. 

17.  Never  seek  quarrels — trouble  comes  unsought.  Experience  has  shown 
that  the  best  results*  are  obtained  where  there  is  a  minhnum  of  friction  between 
the  inspector  and  the  factory  executive.  Harmony  should  prevail,  therefore 
do  your  part  to  preserve  it. 

18.  By  reason  of  having  unrestricted  access  to  all  parts  of  the  manufacturing 
'plant  at  which  you  may  be  stationed  you  will  necessarily  gain  knowledge 
of  secrets  of  manufacture  which  may  and  probably  have  been  costly  to  acquire, 
and  which  under  no  circumstances  should  be  disclosed  by  you  to  other  individuals 
or  manufacturers. 

19.  You  must  refrain  while  on  the  streets  or  in  public  places  from  discussing 
either  with  your  fellow  inspectors  or  others  the  manners  and  methods  and  the 
systems  in  vogue  in  the  factory  in  which  you  are  stationed.  It  is  not  per- 
mitted that  you  should  make  any  unfounded  accusations  as  to  the  motives  or 
intentions  of  the  contractor. 

20.  On  the  questions  of  strikes  at  the  factories  or  management  of  operators 
you  must  hold  a  neutral  position  and  in  no  wise  interfere  with  the  management. 

21.  You  are  to  work  in  full  accord  with  the  organization  in  the  factory  under 
your  supervision  to  get  the  best  results  and  the  greatest  returns. 

22.  All  questions  that  arise  must  be  handled  in  a  diplomatic  manner  with 
the  superintendent  and  officials  so  that  no  loss  of  production  or  quality  of  goods 
shall  result. 

23.  You  are  not  permitted  to  make  any  complaints  of  poor  workmanship 
direct  to  the  workman.  When,  in  the  course  of  your  inspection,  you  find  a 
cause  for  complaint,  you  should  at  once  report  the  matter  to  the  superintendent 
or  foreman  of  the  department  and  also  to  the  inspector  in  charge.  If  an  im- 
mediate improvement  is  not  noticed,  the  inspector  in  charge  will  take  the 
matter  directly  to  the  head  of  the  firm  or  his  personal  representative.  This 
usually  brings  about  the  desired  results. 

24.  The  inspector  in  charge  is  held  responsible  for  the  manner  in  which  the 
inspectors  under  him  perform  their  duties,  and  should  report  to  this  office  con- 
cerning their  diligence,  adaptability,  efficiency,  and  their  promptness  in  report- 
ing for,  and  their  absence  from,  duty. 

The  advice  contained  in  the  foregoing  is  the  result  of  a  careful 
study  of  the  experiences  of  many  men  and  many  minds,  and  it  is  felt 
that  the  consistent  application  of  the  same  can  not  but  result  in  value 
to  the  contractor  and  to  the  inspector. 

DUTIES  OF  INSPECTORS. 

In  addition  to  the  daily  reports,  inspectors  will  make  weekly  re- 
ports of  the  number  of  pairs  of  shoes  lasted  on  each  Saturday.  Full 
and  complete  reports  are  required,  together  with  such  special  reports 


20  AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

a^  may  be  desirable.  These  reports  will  be  used  to  compile  produc- 
tion charts ;  therefore  each  factory  and  each  article  for  each  factory 
must  be  reported  on  a  separate  sheet.  The  care  taken  by  inspectors 
in  preparing  and  forwarding  said  reports  will  greatly  assist  this 
office  in  obtaining  correct  figures  on  which  to  base  future  inspection. 

All  letters  addressed  to  this  office  must  show  on  the  letterhead  the 
name  of  the  contractor  as  well  as  the  name  of  the  city  or  town  in 
which  the  contractor  is  located.  This  should  be  filled  in  in  the  space 
marked  "  place  "  in  the  upper  right-hand  corner  of  Government  shoe 
inspector's  letterhead. 

You  must  be  thoroughly  familiar  with  every  detail  of  the  manu- 
facture of  the  article  which  you  are  to  supervise,  as  well  as  with  the 
practical  workings'  of  the  machinery  and  appliances  used  in  the 
manufacture  and  the  final  finished  product. 

Specifications  must  rule  on  all  Army  shoes.  Inspectors  have  no 
authority  to  waive  a  half  iron  in  bottom  stock  or  one-tenth  of  a  mil- 
limeter in  upper  stock.  Every  inspector  or  contractor  deviating 
from  specifications  in  any  way  must  be  able  to  produce  authority 
in  writing  from  the  Zone  Supply  Officer  permitting  such  deviation. 

When  detailed  on  a  contract,  you  are  to  understand  that  your 
daily  period  of  duty  at  the  factory  must  include  at  least  eight  work- 
ing hours  per  day,  and  that  you  shall  be  absent  during  none  of  the 
important  operations  of  the  manufacture,  day  or  night.  Before 
going  to  the  factory  you  should  thoroughly  familiarize  yourself 
with  the  specifications  and  standard  sample  requirements  in  every 
minute  detail.  You  must  be  prompt  to  notice  any  deviating  there- 
from, which,  together  with  anything  coming  to  your  attention  at 
variance  with  the  interests  of  the  Government  must  be  promptly 
and  fully  reported  in  writing. 

Your  duties  will  take  you  through  the  entire  process  of  manu- 
facture, from  the  inspection  of  the  raw  material  to  the  final  factory 
inspection  of  the  finished  product. 

The  greatest  care  must  be  taken  at  all  vital  points  of  construction 
where  workmanship  is  covered  up  when  the  shoe  is  completed.  Such 
points  as  assembling,  lasting,  inseam  trimming,  welting,  standard 
screwing,  heelseat  nailing,  topsole  nailing  are  considered  in  this 
class.  Any  time  that  trouble  develops  at  any  of  these  points  every 
shoe  should  be  inspected  if  necessary  to  properly  protect  the  Govern- 
ment's interests. 

Any  shoes  that  come  through  the  factory  that,  in  your  estimation, 
are  below  standard  in  workmanship  or  materials,  must  be  held  up, 
and  you  should  forward  samples  and  full  particulars  of  the  defect. 
You  will  be  advised  in  writing  as  to  the  acceptance  or  rejection  of 
the  sample. 

In  case  of  shipment  of  materials  that  are  delayed  to  or  from  the 
factory  you  are  to  inform  this  office  in  order  that  proper  action  may 
be  taken.  If  for  any  reason  whatever  shoes  are  held  up,  a  special 
report  should  immediately  be  prepared  showing  the  numbers  of 
pairs  held  up  and  the  reason  for  so  doing.  The  envelope  in  which 
these  reports  are  inclosed  should  be  prominently  marked  "  Special 
reports."  These  special  reports  should  be  made  whenever  material 
is  held  up. 

Contractors  are  expected  to  and  must  deliver  shoes  as  per  contract, 
and  they  can  not  shift  their  responsibility  to  subcontractors.    Any 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  21 

manufacturer  having  contracts  with  the  Government  is  expected  to 
use  the  proper  material,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  the  inspector  to  see 
that  such  obligations  are  carried  out. 

Assure  yourself  that  the  shoes  examined  at  the  factory  are  up  to 
Government  standard,  especially  as  to  quality  of  workmanship  and 
materials.  Check  up  each  operation  against  the  specifications  to 
insure  fulfillment  of  all  details. 

You  are  to  make  reports  to  this  office  of  any  cause  that  is  hinder- 
ing the  production  or  make  any  suggestions  to  this  office  that,  in 
your  opinion,  will  facilitate  the  shipment  of  the  goods. 

Sealed  samples,  gauges,  measures,  and  all  stamps  sent  to  you  are 
the  property  of  the  United  States  Government,  and  you  are  charged 
with  their  care  and  are  held  responsible  for  their  return. 

Every  inspector  employed  by  this  depot  is  given  an  identification 
card  and  badge.  Both  card  and  badge  are  to  be  carried  at  all  times. 
When  in  the  factory  inspectors  will  wear  the  badge  in  a  prominent 
place,  so  that  employees  will  know  who  the  inspector  is  and  will 
respect  his  authority. 


Chapter  V. 
UPPER  LEATHER. 


SCOPE  OF  SUBJECT. 

The  first  and  most  important  question  which  engages  the  attention 
of  the  inspector  is  that  of  upper  leather.  The  scope  of  the  following 
notes  will  be  restricted  to  leather  intended  for  Army  shoes,  omitting 
data  applicable  to  civilian  work  alone.  An  attempt  has  been  made 
to  furnish  material  that  would  provide  an  officer,  charged  with  the 
successful  completion  of  Government  shoe  contracts,  with  a  clear  con- 
ception of  the  fundamental  principles  governing  the  selection  of 
upper  leather  for  Army  purposes.  With  a  proper  understanding  of 
these  he  should  have  no  difficulty  in  dealing  w^th  the  problems  which 
are  inevitable,  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  facts  hereinafter  set  forth  may 
prove  equally  valuable  to  the  inspectors  charged  with  the  responsi- 
bility of  carrying  out  his  orders. 

DRY  VERSUS  GREEN  SALTED  HIDES. 

While  it  is  not  intended  to  deal  extensively  here  with  the  detailed 
processes  of  leather  manufacturing,  yet,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  Army 
specifications  permit  the  use  of  leather  tanned  from  dry  hides  as  well 
as  from  green  salted  hides,  it  is  thought  well  at  first  to  touch  briefly 
on  their  relative  merits  for  upper  leather.  Hides  reach  the  tanners 
in  two  conditions,  namely,  the  green  salted  hide  and  the  dry  hide. 
Green  salted  hides  are  such  as  have  been  treated  by  the  use  of  salt  to 
prevent  decomposition.  They  reach  the  tanner  before  putrefaction 
commences.  Dry  hides  are  those  which,  on  being  removed  from  the 
animal,  are  washed  free  from  blood  and  dirt  and  then  hung  in  the  sun 
to  drj.  It  often  happens  that  hides  hung  in  the  hot  sun,  without  a 
sufficient  current  of  air,  will  dry  too  quickly.  In  this  case  they  be- 
come so  hard  on  the  outside  that  moisture  from  within  can  not  escape. 
This  often  results  in  the  destruction  of  the  center  substance;  conse- 
quently leather  tanned  from  such  hides  will  ordinarily  be  of  a  very 
poor  and  brittle  fiber  and  may  be  of  such  nature  that  the  grain  and 
flesh  can  be  easily  separated.  The  first  process  before  tanning  dry 
hides  is  to  soak  them  for  at  least  two  days  in  water  containing  caustic 
soda  or  like  substance.  When  sufficiently  soft  they  are  removed  from 
the  vats  and  roughly  fleshed,  after  which  the  soaking  is  continued, 
sulphide  of  soda  or  formic  acid  being  used  to  hasten  the  softening. 
If  often  happens  that  during  the  soaking  process  bacterial  action 
occurs  which  results  in  a  ]pss  of  the  hide  substance,  porous  parts,  and 
also  in  damage  to  the  gram. 
22 


AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  23 

Green  salted  hides,  on  the  other  hand,  are  washed  of  blood  and  dirt 
and  then  tanned.  A  moderate  amount  of  pure  fat  or  oily  substance 
may  be  used  to  advantage.  Unless  heat  is  used  the  leather  will  ab- 
sorb naturally  only  the  softer  oils  and  fats  which  serve  to  coat  the 
libers,  making  them  more  pliable:  The  harder  parts  will  remain  on 
the  surface  to  be  removed  by  a  process  termed  "  slicking."  This  is 
said  to  increase  the  weight  of  the  leather  by  about  10  per  cent.  In 
some  tanneries  the  stuffing  is  hastened  by  placing  the  leather  in  large 
drums,  permitting  harder  fats  and  waxes  to  be  used,  as  the  action  of 
the  drum  forces  them  into  the  substance.  This  method  has  been 
known  to  increase  the  weight  of  the  hides  as  high  as  50  per  cent 
instead  of  10  per  cent. 

The  wisdom  of  permitting  the  use  of  leather  made  from  dry  hides 
in  the  construction  of  Army  shoes  has  often  been  questioned.  Inquiries 
made  of  shoe  manufacturers  and  men  in  the  leather  trade  reveal  the 
almost  unanimous  opinion  that  the  leather  produced  from  green  salted 
hides  is  distinctly  superior  in  quality  to  that  made  from  dry  hides. 
The  wide  experience  gained  during  the  war  has  resulted  in  this  office 
:,aking  the  same  position.  Assuming  that  this  opinion  is  well 
iounded,  and  in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  conditions  in  the  leather 
aarket  are  again  approaching  normal,  it  would  seem  advisable  that 
ii  future  awards  the  permission  to  use  dry  hides  in  upper  leather  be 
w'thdrawn. 

TANNAGE. 

The  question  of  the  proper  type  of  leather  from  which  to  make 
Amy  shoes  is  always  open  to  much  controversy,  because  of  honest 
diflerences  of  opinion  which  have  developed  among  tanners,  manu- 
facturers, and  other  men  in  the  trade.  In  endeavoring  to  produce 
an  ideal  leather  different  methods  are  used,  each  of  which  may 
possess  some  one  or  more  of  the  ideal  qualifications.  The  three 
leatiers  which  have  been  used  by  the  Army  since  1917  are  bark,  full 
chrcme  tanned,  and  chrome  vegetable  retanned.  For  Army  shoes 
we  vre  interested  in  the  leather  which,  in  an  emergency,  can  be  pro- 
duced the  quickest  and  in  the  largest  quantities,  with  the  certainty 
that  it  will  be  satisfactory  in  every  respect.  Chrome  leather  can  be 
produced  very  quickly  in  large  quantities.  Starting  at  any  given 
date  chrome  leather  can  be  produced,  roughly  speaking,  within  two 
week%  Bark  leather  would  require  at  least  three  months.  Chrome 
vegetable  retanned  leather,  when  properly  made,  would  require  at 
least  three  to  three  and  one-half  weeks.  Therefore,  in  the  event  of 
any  serious  emergency,  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  full  chrome 
and  chrome  vegetable  retanned  leathers  can  be  produced  speaks 
volunes  in  favor  of  their  adoption  for  Army  leather  for  general  shoe 
purposes.  Regarding  wearing  quality,  chrome  leather,  when  prop- 
erly nade,  will  wear  as  long,  and  perhaps  longer,  than  leather  made 
by  thi  old-fashioned  bark  process.  Furthermore,  chrome  leather, 
because  of  its  general  nature,  is  less  susceptible  to  heat,  moisture,  and 
perspiration.  Bark  leather,  unless  it  is  kept  constantly  filled  with 
grease,  will  dry  out  hard  and  bony  and  is  very  apt  to  check  and  crack. 
The  general  use  of  mineral  acids  in  the  bleaching  process  in  making 
bark  leather  tends  to  leave  minute  traces  of  acid  behind,  which  in  time 
may  e^t  away  the  very  life  of  the  leather. 


24  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

BARK  LEATHER. 

Bark-tanned  leather  was  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Specifications 
1309  and  1324.  There  are  many  advocates  of  bark-tanned  leather 
and  there  is  no  question  but  what  it  possesses  many  good  qualities. 
Generally  speaking,  however,  it  is  the  standard  leather  of  the  past 
generation.  The  number  of  tanners  producing  bark  leathers  for 
upper  purposes  is  decreasing  year  by  year.  This  is  due  primarily 
to  economic  conditions :  First,  to  produce  bark  leather  in  large  quan- 
tities means  a  large  sum  of  money  tied  up  because  of  the  length  of 
time  required  for  the  bark-tanning  process ;  and,  second,  as  the  timber 
supply  of  the  country  continues  to  diminish,  difficulty  arises  in  the 
procurement  of  the  "bark-tanning  materials.  For  these  and  similar 
reasons  bark  leather  is  fast  disappearing  from  the  market.  The  good 
points  of  bark  leather  do  not  need  to  be  discussed  here. 

FULL  CHROME  LEATHER. 

Full  chrome  tanned  leather  was  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Specifi-/ 
cations  1258  and  1206.  The  reason  for  the  substitution  of  the  chrome' 
leathers  is  that  the  latter  process  produces  a  leather  better  fitted  for 
general  service  and  at  the  same  time  makes  it  possible  to  construct 
lighter  weight  shoes.  Of  the  chrome  leathers  the  one  most  general^ 
used  to-day  for  uppers  for  practically  all  types  and  descriptions  d 
men's  civilian  shoes  is  the  full-chrome  tanned.  Practically  ^0 
per  cent  of  all  upper  leather  used  to-day  is  chrome,  and,  in  spite  of 
the  introduction  in  the  last  five  years  of  chrome  vegetable  retanned 
leather,  this  percentage  will  undoubtedly  grow  larger.  Like  many 
new  commodities,  chrome  leathers  have  been  criticized  more  or  less 
unfavorably.  Unquestionably  certain  people  find  more  comfort  in 
wearing  shoes  from  bark-tanned  leather  because  of  its  geniiral 
porosity,  and  would  probably  wear  chrome-leather  shoes  with  great 
discomfort.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  thousands  of  people  vho 
wear  the  chrome  leathers  without  any  discomfort  whatever.  Fpom 
the  very  fact  that  such  large  quantities  of  chrome  leathers  are  being 
used  in  the  construction  of  shoes,  ranging  from  the  very  lightest 
women's  shoes  up  to  the  very  heaviest  work  and  sport  shoes,  is  evi- 
dence enough  that  the  chrome  leathers  are  satisfactory  for  general  use. 

The  first  requisite  of  good  chrome  leather  is  that  it  shall  be 
thoroughly  tanned.  Whether  this  has  been  done  is  not  determined 
by  the  appearance  of  a  fresh  cut,  but  can  be  absolutely  deteriliined 
by  taking  a  piece  of  leather  and  placing  it  in  a  vessel  of  boiling 
water  for  several  minutes.  If,  after  this  test,  the  piece  of  letther, 
when  dry,  retains  its  original  pliability  and  does  not  curl  up,  it  can 
be  safely  assumed  that  the  leather  is  thoroughly  tanned.  Leather 
which  is  thoroughly  tanned  can  be  finished  in  any  manner  with 
absolute  certainty  that  the  resulting  product  will  be  soft,  piiable, 
and  strong,  and  will  possess  all  of  the  characteristics  of  good  Idither. 
Leather  which  is  not  thoroughly  tanned,  no  matter  what  method  is 
followed  in  finishing,  will  invariably  be  hard,  bony,  and  stiff,  lacking 
in  strength,  and  generally  speaking,  will  not  be  well  adapted  to  the 
making  of  any  type  of  shoe.  I 

The  coloring  of  chrome  leather  is  a  very  important  operation]  The 
color  should  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  aniline  dyes;  that  is,  i  good 


ARMY   SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  25 

strong  base  color,  and  then,  if  it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  produce 
uniformity  of  shade,  it  is  a  good  practice  to  put  on  a  light  pigment 
topping.  This  topping  should  be  of  such  a  nature  that  it  will  not 
rub  off  easily  or  be  too  susceptible  to  water. 

There  has  been  much  criticism  against  chrome  leather  for  civilian 
purposes  on  the  ground  that  it  causes  foot  trouble.  This  trouble,  it 
is  believed,  is  not  due  to  the  use  of  chrome  leather  for  uppers,  but 
rather  to  the  fact  that  shoes  were  made  on  lasts  that  were  funda- 
mentally wrong  for  certain  types  of  feet  and  also  because  if  improp- 
erly constructed  shoes.  An  unlined  shoe,  made  of  fairly  heavy 
chrome  upper  leather,  2  and  2^  millimeters  in  thickness,  on  the  right 
type  of  last,  would  cause  a  minimum  amount  of  foot  trouble.  No 
last  and  no  leather  exists  which  is  adaptable  to  each  and  every  foot. 
Foot  trouble  does  not  come  from  wearing  shoes  of  bark,  chrome,  or 
chrome  retanned  leather,  it  comes  from  wearing  improperly  con- 
structed and  poorly  fitted  shoes. 

The  following  comprises  a  statement  of  the  upper  leather  require- 
ments and  special  instructions  for  the  guidance  of  upper  leather 
inspectors  on  shoes  to  be  made  in  accordance  with  Specifications  1258, 
which  are  typical  of  those  calling  for  full  chrome  leather. 

Insteuctions  foe  Uppeb  Leatheir  No.  1258. 

1.  Tannage,  full  chrome  side  leather. 

2.  Color,  russet. 

3.  Finish,  full  grain. 

4.  Weight,  maximum,  1^  millimeters;  minimum,  1;^  millimeters. 

5.  Size,  not  to  exceed  20  square  feet. 

Tannage. — To  be  full  chrome  tanned  and  the  leather  must  conform  to  the 
physical  and  chemical  tests  of  full  chrome-tanned  leather. 

1.  The  leather  to  be  soft,  pliable,  of  close  texture,  and  strong  fiber. 

(a)  Leather  of  a  hard,  tinny  nature  will  not  be  acceptable. 

( b )  Leather  that  has  not  good  tensile  strength  will  not  be  acceptable. 

(c)  Leatlier  with  tender  grain  will  not  be  tolerated. 

2.  The  leather  must  be  full  chrome  tanned ;  that  is,  it  must  be  sufficiently 
chrome  tanned  so  that  it  will  stand  the  boiling  test. 

Color. — The  color  to  be  the  United  States  Army  standard,  what  is  generally 
termed  *'  russet." 

1.  The  sides  must  be  of  uniform  shade. 

2.  The  leather  must  have  a  good  strong  aniline  color  for  a  base. 

(a)  Leather  with  a  weak  dye  color  as  a  base  and  a  heavy  pigment  color  as  a 
topping  will  not  be  acceptable. 

3.  Leather  from  which  the  finish  is  easily  removed  by  rubbing  or  water,  leav- 
ing a  light  colored  bottom  will  not  be  tolerated.  This  indicates  that  the  leather 
has  not  been  properly  dyed  and  that  the  color  was  obtained  by  the  use  of 
pigments. 

4.  There  are  so  many  ways  in  which  a  good  durable  finish  can  be  obtained 
that  it  is  not  necessary  to  specify  any  particular  method. 

{a)  It  is  generally  understood  among  tanners  and  shoe  manufacturers  just 
what  constitutes  properly  finished  leather,  therefore,  it  is  demanded  that  all 
Army  upper  leather  shall  possess  all  of  the  characteristics  that  go  to  make  up 
first-quality  leather. 

Finish. — The  leather  to  be  full  grain. 

1.  Snuffed  leather  will  not  be  accepted. 

2.  The  finish  is  to  be  attractive  and  of  a  durable  nature. 

(a)  The  finish  should  not  be  of  such  nature  that  it  is  easily  rubbed  off 
and  should  not  be  too  susceptible  to  water. 

3.  The  leather  to  be  boarded. 

4.  Flesh  side  of  the  leather  to  be  buffed  or  shaved  to  a  smooth  surface  and 
no  excessive  amount  of  flesh  will  be  tolerated  on  any  parts  of  the  side. 

Weight. — The  backs  to  be  1^  millimeters  in  thickness ;  bellies  and  shoulders 
not  less  than  1^  millimeters. 


26  AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

Size. — The  size  not  to  exceed  20  square  feet  and  shall  not  be  what  is  gen- 
erally termed  "  flanky  "  or  loose-libered  leather. 

Vamps. — To  be  cut  only  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield 
leather  of  the  proper  weight  and  quality.  Vamps  are  to  be  firm  and  of  even 
texture.    No  vamps  are  to  be  under  1^  millimeters  in  thickness. 

Toe  caps. — To  be  cut  only  from  leather  of  firm  texture,  free  from  imper- 
fections, and  of  good  quality. 

Outside  hack  stays. — To  be  cut  from  the  same  quality  and  weight  of  leather 
as  used  for  vamps. 

Quarters. — To  be  cut  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield  leather 
of  a  substance  and  character  suitable  for  quarters.  Quarters  are  to  be  soft 
and  pliable.  Flanky,  loose,  or  open-fibered  leather  will  not  be  acceptable. 
Quarters  cut  from  leather  generally  classified  as  hard,  tinny,  or  bony  will  not 
be  accepted.  • 

Twigues. — To  be  cut  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield  leather 
suitable  for  tongues.  Tongues  are  to  be  soft,  pliable,  and  serviceable.  Leather 
of  extremely  loose  or  stretchy  nature  will  not  be  acceptable. 

Side  lining. — To  be  cut  from  leather  of  suitable  character,  from  1  millimeter 
to  11  millimeters  in  weight. 

Inside  hack  stay. — To  be  of  good  quality  leather  and  of  proper  weight,  1 
millimeter  minimum  and  11  millimeters  maximum.  May  be  cut  from  the 
same  leather  as  used  in  the  uppers,  provided  same  is  of  proper  weight  and 
quality. 

Inspectian. — In  so  far  as  possible  the  upper  leather  should  be  carefully  in- 
spected before  cutting  not  only  for  the  protection  of  the  Government's  in- 
terests, but  also  those  of  the  shoe  contractor.  Before  a  shoe  contractor  starts 
to  cut  Army  shoes  he  should  have  a  thorough  understanding  of  what  will 
be  acceptable  in  each  part  of  the  upper.  Having  this  information  before  him 
he  can  procure  from  the  tanner  properly  graded  leather.  The  question  of  cut- 
ting figures  belongs  entirely  to  the  shoe  contractor.  From  the  Government's 
standpoint  the  only  things  to  be  considered  and  kept  constantly  in  mind  are: 

1.  Leather  of  the  highest  quality  and  of  proper  substance  for  the  com- 
ponent part  of  the  shoe  must  be  used. 

2.  Only  leather  that  will  give  good  service  is  to  be  used. 

3.  The  leather  is  to  be  free  from  any  blemish  that  will  seriously  impair 
the  wearing  quality  of  the  shoe. 

4.  The  leather  is  to  be  free  from  any  blemish  that  seriously  impairs  the 
general  appearance  or  comfort  of  the  shoe. 

The  first  thing  to  consider  is  whether  each  part  of  the  upper  is 
cut  from  the  portion  of  the  side  that  will  yield  leather  of  the  proper 
substance  and  quality — that  is,  a  vamp  should  be  cut  from  leather 
that  will  yield  good  vamps — quarters  are  to  be  cut  from  leather  that 
will  produce  quarters  possessing  the  proper  qualities.  The  same  rule 
that  applies  to  high-grade  shoemaking,  the  right  stock  in  the  right 
place,  should  be  observed. 

The  question  of  imperfections,  open  scratches  and  grubs,  healed- 
over  scratches  and  grubs,  cuts  and  other  blemishes,  must  be  ruled 
upon  along  the  following  lines : 

1.  No  imperfection  that  will  impair  the  wearing  qualities  of  the  shoe,  inter- 
fere with  the  wearer's  comfort  or  give  the  shoe  an  unsightly  appearance  will 
be  allowed  on  any  part  of  the  upper. 

(a)  Under  the  question  of  appearance  you  must  consider  not  only  grain 
damages,  but  also  the  general  color  of  the  leather.  The  leather  must  be  of 
good  even  color,  that  which  is  generally  termed  "  Russet."  The  parts  of  the 
shoe  must  be  carefully  matched. 

Shoes  constructed  of  variegated  colors  will  be  rejected.  In  order 
to  carry  out  the  above  there  should  be  a  sufficient  number  of  in- 
spectors to  make  it  possible  to  inspect  each  and  every  part  of  the 
upper  before  it  is  stitched.  Every  piece  of  leather  going  into  the 
upper  of  the  shoe  is  to  be  carefully  inspected  in  a  manner  that  will 
thoroughly  safeguard  the  Government's  interests  and  at  the  same 


ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  27 

time  should  not  be  so  complicated  that  it  interferes  with  the  pro- 
duction. 

Each  inspector  is  to  keep  an  accurate  record  of  the  parts  inspected ; 
that  is,  the  case  numbers  and  the  number  of  rejects.  This  will  take 
the  form  of  a  daily  report  which  must  be  turned  in  to  the  inspector 
in  charge,  who,  in  turn,  will  keep  a  record  of  all  of  the  case  numbers 
and  the  name  or  number  of  the  inspector  who  has  passed  upon  the 
various  parts. 

CHROME  VEGETABLE  RETANNED  LEATHER. 

Chrome  vegetable  retanned  leather  was  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
shoes  under  Specifications  1257,  1269,  1271,  1323,  1324,  1351,  1352, 
and  412-2-9.  It  is  doubtless  true  that  vegetable  tanned  leather 
possesses  many  of  the  desirable  qualifications  of  good  upper  leather. 
For  generations  this  method  of  tanning  has  been  approved  as  pro- 
ducing the  ideal  leather  for  all  purposes.  There  are  to-day  many 
tanners  who  strongly  urge  its  superior  virtues.  In  view  of  the  fact 
that  it  has  for  so  long  withstood  the  test  of  durability  and  of  the 
high  degree  of  perfection  to  which  this  method  of  tanning  has  been 
developed,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  there  are  many  who 
advocate  its  use  in  the  making  of  Army  shoes.  The  fact  that  this 
was  the  leather  popular  with  our  forefathers,  when  walking,  and 
rough  roads  were  more  common  than  to-day  and  utility  was  the  first 
consideration,  commends  its  use  in  Army  shoes. 

It  can  not  be  denied,  however,  that  chrome-tanned  leather  has 
largely  superseded  vegetable-tanned  leather  in  the  manufacture  of 
all  kinds  of  shoes.  This  may  be  due  to  the  great  reduction  of  time 
which,  of  course,  means  a  corresponding  reduction  in  the  cost  of 
production  of  leather  tanned  by  this  process.  Doubtless,  however, 
much  of  the  popularity  of  chrome  leathers  is  due  to  the  changed 
conditions  under  which  civilian  shoes  are  worn  to-day,  when  ap- 
pearance and  comfort  are  given  first  consideration. 

One  of  the  reasons  for  the  popularity  of  leather  tanned  by  the 
chrome  process  is  that  the  nature  of  the  hide  is  changed  so  that  it 
becomes  very  pliable,  a  feature  which  is  not  so  pronounced  in  vege- 
table tanned,  but,  being  characteristically  tender  on  the  grain,  it  is 
not  so  suitable  for  the  rough  wear  which  an  Army  shoe  niight  receive. 
The  process  of  chrome  tanning  does  not  affect  the  gelatinous  part — 
that  is,  the  material  that  fills  the  interstices  between  the  fiber  and 
which  is  called  the  hide  substance — in  the  same  way  as  the  vegetable- 
tanning  process.  This  hide  substance,  which  is  turned  into  tanno 
gelatine  by  the  latter  process,  is  not  similarly  affected  by  the  former 
process,  consequently  the  leather  is  not  so  well  filled.  Another  fea- 
ture of  chrome-tanned  leather  is  that  being  nonabsorbent  it  does 
not  take  up  the  moisture  of  the  foot,  and  since  the  moisture  can  not 
escape  it  causes  the  foot  to  be  cold,  damp,  or  even  wet,  according 
to  the  constitution  of  the  wearer.  Vegetable-tanned  leather,  how- 
ever, being  porous  permits  the  foot  to  breathe,  and  being  more 
absorbent  takes  up  the  moisture. 

It  would  seem  that  the  ideal  qualifications  necessary  in  civilian 
shoes  for  present  day  wear  are  found  in  chrome  tanned  leather, 
but  shoes  of  the  types  called  for  in  Specifications  1257,  1269,  1271, 


28 


AEMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 


1324,  1352,  and  412-2-9  require  something  more.  These  added  re- 
quirements are  found  in  the  vegetable  retanned  leather.  Therefore, 
the  chrome  vegetable  retanned  leather,  possessing  as  it  does  the  com- 
bined good  qualities  of  both  processes,  was  found  to  be  ideal  for 
these  shoes.  The  leather  thus  produced  is  extremely  tough,  yet  pli- 
able. It  possesses  the  water  resisting  qualities  of  the  chrome  tanned, 
yet  is  of  such  a  nature  that  it  permits  the  foot  to  breathe. 

An  examination  of  the  reclaimed  shoes  seems  to  indicate  the  supe- 
riority of  this  combination  tannage  from  the  standpoint  of  dura- 
bility, as  in  most  instances  the  upper  leather  in  shoes  made  from 
chrome  vegetable  retanned  leather  was  found  to  be  intact  even  though 
both  heel  and  double  sole  were  completely  worn  away,  while  in 
shoes  of  Specifications  1258,  in  which  full  chrome  tanned  leather 
was  used,  the  vamps  were  found  to  be  badly  checked  and  often 
broken  aw^ay,  although  the  bottom  construction  had  not  been  seri- 
ously impaired. 

The  following  comprises  a  statement  of  the  upper-leather  require- 
ments and  special  instructions  for  the  guidance  of  upper-leather 
inspectors  on  the  new  garrison  shoe  41^2-9,  which  is  typical  of 
the  chrome  vegetable  retanned  specification: 

Specifications  412-2-9. 
insteuctions  pertaining  to  upper  leather. 

Tannage. — To  be  chrome  vegetable  retanned,  cowhide  side  leather. 

1.  The  leather  to  be  soft,  pliable,  of  close  texture,  and  strong  fiber. 

(a)  Leather  of  a  hard,  tinny  nature  will  not  be  acceptable. 

(&)  Leather  that  has  not  good  tensile  strength  will  not  be  acceptable. 

(c)  Leather  with  tender  grain  will  not  be  tolerated. 

Finish. — Light  snuffing  in  order  to  remove  slight  grain  imperfections  is 
permitted. 

1.  The  finish  is  to  be  attractive  and  of  a  durable  nature;  that  is,  it  should 
not  be  easily  rubbed  off  or  not  too  susceptible  to  water. 

Color. — The  color  to  be  russet  and  conform  to  that  of  the  standard  Garri- 
son shoe. 

1.  The  color  is  to  be  uniform. 

2.  The  leather  must  have  a  good,  strong,  aniline  color  for  a  base. 

(a)  Leather  with  a  weak  dye  color  as  a  base  and  a  heavy  pigment  color 
as  a  topping  will  not  be  acceptable. 

(ft)  Leather  from  which  the  color  is  easily  removed  by  water  or  rubbing, 
leaving  a  light  colored  bottom,  will  not  be  tolerated. 

Weight. — The  weight  of  sides  to  be  2.5  millimeters. 

1.  The  weight  of  the  individual  parts: 


Vamps 

Quarters 

Foxings 

Tips 

Counter  pockets 

Tonnes 

Eyelet  facings. . , 


MiniTmiTTi. 

Mftximnm . 

Milli- 

Milli- 

meters. 

meters. 

2.0 

2.5 

1.8 

2.2 

1.8 

2.2 

1.6 

2.2 

1.6 

2.2 

1.2 

1.4 

1.2 

1.4 

Vamps. — To  be  cut  only  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield 
leather  of  the  proper  weight  and  quality.  Vamps  are  to  be  firm,  fine,  and 
uniform  in  texture. 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  29 

1.  Vamps  shall  be  free  from  any  imperfections  that  impair  the  service, 
appearance,  or  comfort  of  the  shoe. 

(a)  Vamps  are  to  be  free  from  grubs  except  in  that  portion  which  is  com- 
pletely covered  by  the  tip. 

2.  Regarding  the  weight,  the  specifications  state  a  minimum  of  2  millimeters 
and  a  maximum  of  2i.  This  does  not  imply  that  this  variation  is  permissible 
in  a  single  vamp — it  simply  indicates  that  it  is  desirable  to  use  lighter  weight 
leather  for  the  small  sizes  and  heavy  weight  leather  for  large  sizes. 

Tips. — To  be  cut  from  leather  of  the  same  quality  as  called  for  in  vamps. 

Quarters. — To  be  cut  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield  leather 
of  a  substance  and  character  suitable  for  quarters.  Quarters  are  to  be  soft 
and  pliable.  Flanky,  loose,  or  open  fibered  leather  will  not  be  acceptable. 
Quarters  cut  from  leather  generally  classified  as  hard,  tinny,  or  bony  will  not 
be  acceptable. 

1.  Quarters  are  to  be  free  from  grubs  except  in  that  portion  which  is  com- 
pletely covered  by  the  outside  counter  pocket. 

Counter  pockets. — To  be  cut  from  those  portions  of  the  side  that  will  yield 
leather  suitable  for  counter  pockets. 

1.  Counter  pockets  are  to  be  of  good  quality.  Flanky,  loose,  or  open  fibered 
leather  will  not  be  acceptable. 

Tongues. — To  be  cut  from  those  portions  of  the  side  tbat  will  yield  leather 
suitable  for  tongues.  Tongues  are  to  be  soft,  pliable,  and  serviceable.  Leather 
of  extremely  loose  or  stretchy  nature  will  not  be  acceptable.  Tongues  may 
be  split  but  must  be  of  acceptable  quality. 

Inspection. — The  specifications  for  the  material  for  uppers  on  the  Garrison 
shoe  dated  April  15,  1919,  state : 

"  Vamps,  tops,  counter  pockets,  tongues,  tips,  and  eyelet  facings  to  be  cut 
from  the  best  chrome,  vegetable  retanned  cowhide  side  leather.  Slight  grain 
imperfections  may  be  removed  by  a  light  snufling  of  the  leather.  Where,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  Government,  however,  it  is  apparent  that  the  leather  has  been 
snuffed  too  deeply,  it  will  be  rejected  in  the  side.  No  inferior  leather  shall  be 
used,  but  leather  for  different  parts  need  not  be  of  the  same  thickness  or  the 
same  quality,  inasmuch  as  each  part  is  subjected  to  different  degrees  of  wear. 
Tongues  may  be  cut  from  the  softer  and  lighter  parts  of  the  sides,  but  no 
tongues  can  be  cut  from  leather  of  weak  fiber.  Shoes  to  be  made  with  the 
grain  of  the  leather  on  the  outside." 

1.  It  is  clearly  stated  that  the  parts  of  the  shoe  are  to  be  cut  from  the  best 
chrome,  vegetable  retanned  leather. 

{a)  Leather  of  the  best  quality  and  of  the  proper  substance  to  be  used  for 
each  part  of  the  shoe. 

( & )  Only  leather  that  will  give  good  service  is  to  be  used. 

(c)  Leather  is  to  be  free  from  any  blemish  that  will  seriously  impair  the 
wearing  qualities  or  the  appearance  and  comfort  of  the  shoe. 

2.  The  first  thing  to  be  considered  is  whether  or  not  each  part  of  the  upper 
is  cut  from  that  portion  of  the  side  that  will  yield  leather  of  the  proper  sub- 
stance and  quality ;  that  is,  a  vamp  should  be  cut  from  leather  that  will  yield 
good  vamps,  quarters  are  to  be  cut  from  leather  that  will  produce  quarters 
possessing  the  proper  qualities.  The  same  rule  that  applies  to  good  shoemaking, 
the  right  stock  in  the  right  place,  should  be  observed. 

3.  Every  piece  of  leather  going  into  the  upper  of  the  shoe  is  to  be  carefully 
inspected  in  a  manner  that  will  thoroughly  safeguard  the  Government's  in- 
terests. 

4.  Each  inspector  is  to  keep  an  accurate  record  of  the  parts  inspected ;  that 
is,  the  case  numbers  and  the  number  of  rejects.  This  will  take  the  form  of  a 
daily  report  which  must  be  turned  in  to  the  inspector  in  charge,  who  in  turn 
will  keep  a  record  of  all  of  the  case  numbers  and  the  name  or  number  of  the 
inspector  who  has  passed  upon  the  various  parts. 

SIZE   OF   HIDES. 

Having  considered  the  relative  merits  of  the  various  tannages, 
the  next  point  to  be  touched  upon  is  that  of  the  size  of  the  hides. 
Specifications  for  Army  shoes  calling  for  side  leather  in  all  in- 
stances, except  the  1258  shoe,  do  not  specify  definite  limits  for  the 
size  of  the  upper-leather  sides. 


30 


AKMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS. 


Specification. 

Size  or  type  of  hide. 

Specification. 

Size  or  tjrpe  of  hide. 

1271 

Cowhide. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cowhide  or  kip. 

Do. 

1351 

Cowhide  or  kip. 

1323 

1258 

20  square  feet  maximum. 

1269.          .   .   . 

1351 

25  to  45  poimd  cowhide. 
Cowhide. 

1309 

412-2-9 

1324 

Concerning  the  limit  of  20  square  feet  per  side,  as  called  for  by 
Specifications  1258,  it  has  been  demonstrated  that  this  is  too  small 
when  shoes  of  a  rather  heavy  nature,  like  the  1269,  or  the  new 
garrison  shoe,  are  called  for.  In  the  past  it  has  been  hard  to  hold 
the  tanners  to  the  20  square  feet  limit  for  the  1258  marching  shoe. 
The  experience  of  this  office  has  been  that  with  hides  running  from 
25  to  45  pounds,  generally  called  extremes,  some  of  the  most  desir- 
able leather  obtained  would  run  over  20  square  feet.  When  cow- 
hide leather  is  specified  tanners,  with  all  due  justice,  could  work 
in  buff  hides,  which  run  from  40  to  60  pounds,  or  they  could  even 
use  heavy  hides.  60  pounds  and  up,  although  when  one  gets  up  into 
the  60-pound  hide  class  there  are  bound  to  be  large  sides  which  would 
be  very  undesirable  in  quality.  In  order  that  the  best  class  of  raw 
material  shall  be  used  it  is  very  desirable  to  set  a  maximum  limit 
for  size.  It  is  recommended  that  24  feet  shall  be  the  limit  of  area 
for  all  Army  shoes,  specifications  of  which  call  for  cowhides. 

QUALITY   OF  UPPER  LEATHER. 

The  importance  of  the  general  quality  of  the  upper  leather  is  a 
point  which  is  second  to  none.  After  a  shoe  is  made  up  it  is  practi- 
cally impossible  to  pass  any  judgment  regarding  this,  since  the  only 
defects  which  can  then  be  detected  are  serious  grain  damages.  The 
liberal  use  of  cement  in  the  manufacture  of  lined  shoes  to-day  causes 
otherwise  poor  uppers  to  appear  as  of  better  quality.  It  has  been 
the  aim  of  the  department  to  keep  the  vamps  free  from  grubs,  and 
this  is  practically  impossible  unless  the  individual  vamp  is  looked 
over  on  both  the  flesh  and  grain  sides.  These  facts  ought  to  be  per- 
fectly plain  even  to  the  most  uninitiated  in  shoemaking  practice. 
Leather  going  into  Army  shoes  should  not  only  be  inspected  in  the 
full  side  but  also  each  individual  part  of  the  shoe  should  be  ex- 
amined with  care,  otherwise  the  specifications,  instead  of  being  a  safe- 
guard of  the  Government's  interests  become  of  little  or  no  use. 

For  the  specific  purposes  of  shoes  of  the  type  adopted  for  the 
Army,  the  ideal  leather  should  possess  certain  qualifications  which 
might  be  named  in  the  following  order  of  merit :  It  must  be  tough, 
otherwise  it  will  quickly  tear,  especially  at  the  lace  holes  and  in 
the  parts  of  the  vamp  subjected  to  great  strain.  This  qualification 
would  not  be  so  essential  in  the  tops  of  quarters  which  are  not  sub- 
ject to  such  strain,  but  in  the  vamps  it  is  indispensable ;  otherwise  it 
would  be  impossible  to  properly  last  the  shoe.  It  should  be  pliable 
and  able  to  withstand  fatigue.  This  pliability  is  essential  for  com- 
fort, but  its  importance  may  be  modified  according  to  the  part  of 
the  upper  for  which  a  particular  piece  of  leather  is  to  be  used.  This 
consideration  often  decides  its  acceptance  or  rejection.  It  should  be 
able  to  withstand  abrasive  wear.     It  is  very  likely  that  Army  shoes 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  31 

may  very  often  come  in  contact  with  sharp  stones,  briers,  field  stub- 
ble, etc. ;  therefore  leather  otherwise  desirable,  bein<^  tender  on  the 
grain,  is  unsuitable  for  this  purpose. 

Some  leathers  have  considerable  tensile  strength,  yet  if  bent  many 
times  in  the  same  place  they  give  way,  the  fibers  being  too  short, 
too  rigid,  and  too  compact  to  enable  them  to  adapt  themselves  to  the 
movement  of  the  leather.  Such  material,  however,  may  have  quali- 
fications which  would  make  it  desirable  for  other  parts  of  the  shoe,  as, 
for  example,  the  toe  cap  or  counter  pocket,  which  are  not  subject  to 
this  flexing. 

The  question  of  waterproof  leather  is  governed  by  the  climatic 
conditions  of  the  section  of  the  country  in  which  it  is  anticipated 
the  shoes  are  to  be  worn.  Obviously  shoes  which  are  to  be  worn 
in  the  dry,  arid  regions  of  the  Southwest  need  not  be  waterproof. 
Leather  should  not  be  air-tight  or  the  foot  will  always  be  damp  and 
cold,  owing  to  the  condensed  moisture.  This  moisture  sets  up  a 
chemical  reaction  which  soon  destroys  the  fiber  of  the  leather.  A 
desirable  feature  of  shoes  of  russet  leather  is  that  it  should  be  pos- 
sible to  clean  them,  and  they  should  be  capable  of  taking  a  high 
polish;  therefore  the  question  of  paint  or  pigment  used  by  many 
present-day  leather  manufacturers  is  important. 

Few  manufacturers  make  a  line  of  shoes  in  which  can  be  used 
leather  of  the  same  nature  as  that  used  in  the  Army  shoe.  It  is  obvi- 
ous that  unless  all  the  leather  of  this  kind  which  is  purchased  can 
be  cut  and  accepted  for  Army  purposes,  a  considerable  financial  loss 
will  result  to  the  contractor.  For  this  reason,  as  well  as  for  the 
safety  of  the  Government's  interests  in  this  matter,  the  upper-leather 
inspector  should,  before  actual  cutting  starts,  examine  the  leather  in 
the  side,  carefully  considering  its  adaptability  for  Army  purposes. 
]Ie  should  note  the  weight,  general  nature  of  the  fiber  and  grain,  the 
number  of  grubs,  wire  scratches,  grain  damages,  amount  of  pigment, 
depth  of  snuffing,  and  the  amount  of  grease.  If  in  his  opinion  the 
number  of  rejected  pieces  cut  from  this  leather  would  be  excessive, 
he  should  so  inform  the  contractor  and  strongly  advise  against  its  use. 

While  inspecting  leather  in  the  side,  it  is  likely  that  the  inspector 
will  meet  with  leather  tanned  from  hides  having  a  wide  range  of 
quality.  It  is  difficult  to  find  any  one  hide  that  will  possess  all  the 
desirable  qualities. 

A  hide  is  said  to  be  well  grown  when  those  parts  which  are  con- 
sidered as  offal,  that  is,  bellies  and  flanks,  are  of  a  substance  and 
quality  approaching  that  of  the  bend  portion.  The  percentage  of 
good  material  cut  from  these  hides  is  high.  A  hide  in  which,  for 
any  reason,  the  percentage  of  poor  material  in  these  parts  exceeds 
the  normal  is  said  to  be  badly  grown,  and  much  of  it  will  necessarily 
be  rejected. 

The  bellies  and  flanks  should  not  be  too  loose,  as  in  a  measure  this 
would  indicate  a  badly  grown,  poorly  nourished  hide.  Such  leather 
should  show  a  large  percentage  of  rejects. 

Oftentimes  cowhides  and  kips  are  badly  scarred  by  wire  scratches 
and  other  grain  damages.  In  attempting  to  remove  these  blemishes 
the  surface  is  often  buffed  too  deeply,  thus  making  the  grain  tender. 
There  should  also  be  an  absence  of  harshness. 

A  square  hide  should  show  a  better  percentage  of  acceptable  cut 
parts,  as  being  wide  across  the  back  it  offers  a  greater  area  of  the 


32  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

higher  grade  material.  The  long,  narrow  hides  will  offer  more  of 
the  poorer  parts,  such  as  the  neck,  the  belly,  and  the  flank.  Also  it 
is  usually  found  that  these  parts  are  much  poorer  in  quality  than 
in  the  corresponding  parts  in  the  square  hide. 

INSPECTION  OF  INDIVIDUAL  PARTS. 

It  is  of  great  advantage  to  the  cutter  when  the  hide  is  split  to  a 
uniform  weight,  as  it  results  in  a  better  matched  shoe. 

After  having  inspected  the  upper  leather  in  the  side,  and  having 
satisfactorily  conferred  with  the  superintendent  as  to  the  advisa- 
bility of  cutting  it,  the  cutting-room  inspector  should  carefully  ex- 
amine each  individual  part  cut  from  this  leather.  In  doing  this  the 
strain  which  each  part  will  have  to  bear  during  the  course  of  manu- 
facture and  in  the  wear  thereof  should  be  considered.  The  principal 
strain  during  the  process  of  manufacture  will  be  in  the  lasting.  The 
particular  strain  which  affects  the  upper  most  in  this  operation  is 
the  heel  to  toe  tension  set  up  by  the  pulling-over  machine.  For 
instance,  if  a  shoe  is  being  lasted  and  one  of  the  quarters  stretches 
in  the  direction  of  this  strain  while  the  other  does  not  the  seams  will 
be  crooked.  Also  on  the  garrison  shoe  the  ears  will  be  crooked. 
If  both  quarters  on  one  shoe  stretch  and  those  of  the  other  do  not, 
then  one  shoe  will  come  further  forward  on  the  last  than  the  other, 
with  the  result  that  the  cap  on  that  shoe  will  be  shorter.  If  the  vamp 
is  cut  with  the  stretch  in  the  direction  of  heel  to  toe,  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  pull  them  over  properly,  as  the  vamp  will  increase  so  much  in 
length  that  the  shoes  will  not  mate.  If  the  vamp  is  cut  with  the 
diagonal  stretch,  it  would  be  impossible  to  keep  the  seams  straight. 
In  a  word,  therefore,  vamps  should  be  cut  tight.  If  the  tip  is  cut 
with  the  stretch  lengthwise.,  it  will  be  difficult  to  get  the  proper  ten- 
sion at  the  pulling  over;  also  the  bed  laster  will  have  difficulty  in 
lasting  the  toe. 

On  the  russet  marching  shoe  the  vampers  will  also  have  difficulty 
in  stitching  an  upper  on  which  either  the  quarter  or  vamp  stretch 
from  heel  to  toe.  The  strain  to  which  the  different  parts  are  subject 
in  wear  must  be  considered.  For  example,  in  a  quarter,  that  part 
which  is  supported  by  the  counter  and  counter  pocket  is  subject 
to  the  least  wear,  therefore  the  poorest  parts  should  be  placed  there 
and  the  best  quality  should  be  at  the  forepart  of  the  quarters,  other- 
wise the  vamp,  being  cut  from  prime  material  might  by  contrast 
make  the  quarter  look  poor.  Vamps  should  always  be  cut  of  the 
strongest  material  since  the  constant  flexing  of  the  foot  at  the  joint 
is  a  severe  strain  on  the  leather.  It  is  also  often  subject  to  con- 
siderable abrasive  friction  at  the  joints.  Its  edge,  where  it  meets 
the  welt,  should  be  able  to  resist  the  wear.  The  tip  and  vamp  should 
be  similar  in  quality.  If  a  vamp  is  cut  so  that  all  its  parts  are  not 
uniform,  then  the  poorest  part  should  be  under  the  tip  or  on  the  ex- 
treme end  of  the  inside  wing.  A  small  defect  may  with  safety  be 
accepted  under  the  tip.  The  caps  should  be  of  stout  material,  but  as 
they  do  not  receive  as  much  strain  as  the  vamp  they  need  not  be 
as  heavy. 

Upper  leather  should  be  resorted  from  tannery  sorting,  the  lighter 
weights  to  be  used  for  the  small  sizes,  the  extreme  heavy  weights  in 
the  large  sizes,  and  the  intermediate  weights  in  the  intermediate 


ARMY   SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  88 

sizes.  Vamps,  quarters,  and  counter  pockets  should  be  cut  to  pairs  as 
far  as  possible.  They  should  be  cut  from  the  firm  part  of  the  hide 
and  should  be  of  uniform  color  and  match  marked,  leaving  only  the 
gussets  to  be  taken  from  the  heads,  bellies,  and  flanks.  Gussets 
should  be  cut  with  an  absence  of  stretch  from  top  to  bottom,  so  that  in 
service  they  will  not  be  pulled  out  of  shape. 

It  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  this  office  that  certain  tanners 
contemplated  the  selling  of  special  tongue  stock  to  shoe  contractors 
for  the  garrison  shoe.  This  should  be  absolutely  prohibited.  If 
full  sides  or  partially  cropped  sides  are  used,  as  will  generally  be 
used  for  the  garrison  shoe,  there  is  no  need  whatsoever  of  any  special 
stock  being  used  for  this  purpose.  If  permission  is  given  to  use  such 
leather  the  practice  would  become  general,  and  it  is  impossible  to 
conceive  of  the  poor  leather  which  might  find  its  way  into  the  shoe. 
Strict  measures,  therefore,  should  be  taken  to  keep  this  type  of 
leather  from  getting  into  the  hands  of  the  shoe  contractors. 

In  order  to  make  the  position  of  this  office  clear  regarding  the 
use  of  light  leather,  which  should  only  be  used  for  tongues  in  the 
construction  of  the  garrison  shoe,  the  following  ruling  has  been 
made: 

No  sides  shall  be  cut  in  connection  with  the  garrison  shoe  which,  because  of 
weight  and  quality,  are  suitable  only  for  tongues,  neither  shall  any  sides  be 
cut  that  will  not  yield  some  minimum  weight  vamps  of  the  proper  quality  or 
quarters  of  a  minimum  weight  of  2  millimeters. 

35285—21 3 


Chapter  VI. 
SOLE  LEATHER. 


There  is  no  type^of  leather,  the  quality  of  which  must  be  deter- 
mined quickly  and  accurately,  that  presents  any  more  difficulties 
than  sole  leather.  The  question  of  whether  the  use  of  dry  hides  should 
be  permitted  in  the  soles  of  Army  shoes  has  been  the  subject  of  much 
comment  pro  and  con  by  shoe  manufacturers,  tanners,  and  Govern- 
ment officials. 

DRY  VERSUS  GREEN  HIDES. 

Prior  to  1917  green  salted  hides  alone  were  provided  for,  but  the 
use  of  dry  hides  was  allowed  during  the  emergency,  due,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  writer,  to  the  scarcity  of  green  salted  hides.  The 
question  of  whether  dry  or  green  salted  hides  produce  the  better 
leather  has  been  decided,  and  the  question  was  not  decided  along  the 
lines  of  fancy  or  opinion,  but  by  results  obtained  from  actual  ex- 
perience. 

When  a  tanner  goes  into  the  market  to  buy  hides  on  the  assump- 
tion that  he  is  going  to  produce  a  leather  of  general  high  quality,  he 
considers  nothing  but  a  first-class  green  salted  hide.  When  a  tanner 
goes  into  the  market  to  buy  dry  hides,  he  knows  quite  well  that  the 
leather  they  will  produce  will  be  greatly  inferior  to  that  which  green 
salted  hides  would  produce,  and  that  the  price  he  will  receive  for  the 
finished  product  will  be  less  than  that  he  would  receive  if  he  had 
used  green  salted  hides.  It  is  granted  that  a  good  dry  hide  when 
properly  handled  will  give  leather  that  will  compare  quite  favorably 
with  that  produced  from  the  average  green  salted  hide,  but  after 
comparing  the  leather  generally  obtained  from  dry  hides  with  that 
obtained  from  green  salted  hides  the  results  from  a  point  of  quality 
seem  to  be  largely  in  favor  of  the  product  obtained  from  the  use 
of  the  green  salted  hide.  In  other  words,  in  the  use  of  leather  made 
from  green  salted  hides  one  naturally  expects  to  meet  stock  of  a 
general  high  quality,  while  in  the  use  of  leather  made  from  dry  hides 
one  invariably  finds  leather  of  a  generally^  lower  average. 

The  question  as  to  why  green  salted  hides  produce  better  leather 
than  that  obtained  from  dry  hides  may  be  answered  thus :  Dry  hides, 
as  a  general  rule,  come  from  cattle  raised  in  hot  countries.  When 
a  hide  is  taken  off,  in  order  to  make  sure  of  its  preservation,  it 
should  be  thoroughly  salted.  In  this  manner  decomposition  is  pre- 
vented and  the  hide  maintains  more  easily  its  general  strength  of 
fiber  and  pliability.  Hides  properly  salted  and  handled  can  be 
kept  in  safety  for  a  considerable  time  in  the  green  state.  In  the 
countries  in  which  dry  hides  are  produced  this  fact  is  generally 

34 


AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  35 

overlooked,  and  the  hides  when  they  are  taken  off,  instead  of  being 
properly  salted,  are  not  salted  at  all,  but  are  simply  dried  out.  If 
a  hide  is  dried  out  soon  after  its  removal  from  the  animal  there 
is  not  a  great  deal  of  danger  from  decomposition,  but  decomposi- 
tion of  hide  substance  is  so  rapid  that  oftentimes  the  hide  has  rot- 
ted in  spots  before  it  is  dry.  When  the  hide  is  dry  these  rotted  spots 
can  not  be  detected,  and  hides  which  to  all  appearances  seem  in  good 
condition  oftentimes  turn  out  to  be  useless  for  any  purpose.  The 
usual  method  of  drying  these  skins  is  to  suspend  them  in  the  sun 
from  stakes  by  the  head  and  tail.  It  often  happens  that  in  the  hot 
sun  they  dry  so  quickly  on  the  outside  as  to  become  casehardened. 
In  this  condition  the  surface  drys  and  hardens  before  the  interior 
substance  is  dry  and  the  moisture,  being  unable  to  escape  through 
the  hardened  surface,  rots  the  interior  substance.  As  the  result  of 
this,  in  the  finished  product  it  is  oftentimes  an  easy  matter  to  sepa- 
rate the  grain  and  the  flesh. 

It  can  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  in  the  use  of  dry  hides  one  is 
taking  chances.  In  addition  to  these  rotted  spots,  which  either  cause 
large  holes  in  the  hide  or  patches  where  the  grain  is  damaged, 
there  is  also  the  question  of  sores  and  various  insect  bites  which 
are  detrimental  to  the  quality  of  the  leather.  When  dry  hides  are 
used,  before  they  can  be  tanned,  they  must  be  thoroughly  soaked  in 
order  to  make  them  soft  enough.  This  can  be  accomplished  only  by 
a  prolonged  soaking  and  by  mechanical  manipulation,  such  as  wheel- 
ing, which  is  always  accompanied  by  a  considerable  lx)ss  of  valuable 
hide  substance.  This  is  one  of  the  main  reasons  why  leather  from 
dry  hides  always  feels  more  empty  and  harsh  than  that  obtained  from 
green  salted  hides. 

In  the  conclusion  that  green  salted  hides  only  should  be  used  for 
Army  sole  leather,  the  following  reasons  are  the  most  important : 

(a)  The  general  average  quality  of  leather  made  from  green  salted  hides  is 
much  higher  than  that  obtained  from  dry  hides. 

1.  There  are  more  imperfections  in  dry  hides,  such  as  various  insect  bites, 
sores,  damaged  grain,  rotted  places,  and  slaughter  cuts  caused  by  careless 
stripping  of  the  hide. 

(6)  Leather  from  dry  hides  never  commands  top  market  prices. 

1.  Whether  the  leather  made  from  them  is  for  upper  or  sole  leather  it  always 
goes  into  the  cheaper  grades. 

(c)  In  the  use  of  sole  leather  made  from  green  salted  hides  the  fact  is 
established  at  the  very  outset  that  the  best  and  most  uniform  raw  material  has 
been  used  in  its  manufacture. 

1.  It  has  been  proved  by  experience  that  soles  cut  from  leather  tanned  from 
high-grade  green  salted  leather  have  given  the  least  trouble  in  regard  to  in- 
spection. 

2.  The  proper  place  to  remedy  difficulties  is  to  go  back  to  the  raw  material 
from  which  the  leather  is  made. 

(d)  The  use  of  sole  leather  made  from  green  salted  hides  will  lessen  the 
cost  of  inspection  and  also  increase  the  efficiency. 

1.  There  will  be  fewer  rejects  and  the  danger  of  inferior  stock  being  used 
will  be  greatly  reduced. 

It  is  to  be  admitted  that  to  draw  a  line  of  distinction  between 
individual  soles,  i.  e.,  to  tell  whether  one  sole  was  cut  from  green 
salted  stock  and  another  from  dry,  is  a  rather  delicate  proposition. 
The  problem  is  to  be  considered  only  in  a  large  way.  Anything  that 
will  tend  to  raise  the  general  standard  of  the  Army  shoe  and  at  the 
same  time  lessen  the  expense  and  increase  the  general  efficiency  of  in- 
spection is  worthy  of  consideration.    When  the  best  raw  materials 


36  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

are  demanded  and  insisted  upon  there  leaves  very  little  room  for 
misunderstanding  regarding  general  quality.  In  view  of  this  it  is 
believed  advisable,  in  writing  specifications  for  any  type  of  Army 
shoes,  that  it  should  be  clearly  stated  that  all  leather,  whether  in- 
tended for  the  uppers  or  the  soles  of  the  shoes,  shall  be  tanned  only 
from  green  salted  hides  of  the  highest  quality. 

THE  VALUE  OF  A  HIDE. 

The  value  of  a  hide  is  sometimes  greatly  affected  by  careless  or 
unskillful  handling  of  the  butcher's  knife  in  skinning  the  animal. 
Cuts  made  in  this  manner  are  sometimes  so  numerous  that  the  value 
of  the  hide  is  often  reduced  one-half.  This  condition  is  found 
to  exist  more  frequently  in  country  hides.  Grub  holes  often  lessen 
the  value  of  a  hide.  The  results  of  this  may  be  seen  in  the  finished 
liide  in  the  form  of  a  hole  of  varied  size  or  in  a  healed-over  scar, 
either  of  which  makes  that  portion  of  the  hide  in  which  they  are 
found  practically  worthless. 

The  cattle  tick  causes  the  most  serious  damage  to  the  surface  and 
inner  substance  of  the  hide  since  it  injures  the  fiber  beyond  any 
possibility  of  filling  with  tanning  material.  The  tick  is  most  preva- 
lent in  warm  climates,  and  one  finds  the  hides  decreasing  in  quality 
in  direct  proportion  to  the  distance  from  the  equator.  Of  the 
domestic  hides  Texas  ones  show  the  most  tick  bites,  but  through 
Government  supervision  the  tick  is  being  practically  eradicated  from 
all  our  Southern  States. 

The  substance  of  the  hide  varies  with  the  breed,  the  age,  and  the 
sex  of  the  animal,  bull  hides  and  buffalo  hides,  for  instance,  being 
coarse  and  heavy.  Also  as  the  animal  grows  older  the  hide  grows 
coarser.  Bull  hides  are  usually  heavy  both  in  the  shoulders  and 
the  belly  and  relatively  lighter  in  the  butt.  Cow  hides  are  thin  in 
the  shoulder  and  belly  but  stouter  in  the  butt,  while  steer  hides 
present  the  most  uniform  substance  and  fiber. 

TANNAGE  OF  HIDES. 

It  is  important  that  sole  leather  be  thoroughly  tanned.  Hides 
vary  in  thickness,  some  parts  being  heavy,  other  parts  being  thin. 
They  also  vary  in  texture,  some  being  tight  and  offering  resistance 
to  penetration.  The  hides  should  remam  in  the  pits  until  even 
the  heaviest  and  tightest  parts  are  thoroughly  tanned.  Some  tanners 
do  not  always  wait  for  this.  During  the  past  emergency  it  was 
not  uncommon  to  find  slack  tanned  sole  leather.  As  it  was  impossible 
to  accept  leather  of  this  description  the  discovery  of  it  at  factories 
making  Army  shoes  caused  a  serious  delay  at  a  time  when  production 
was  of  very  great  importance. 

Leather  not  thoroughly  tanned  may  be  easily  detected  by  examin- 
ing a  section  of  the  sole.  The  untanned  portion  will  be  uncolored 
bv  the  tanning  liquid.  Should  there  be  any  uncertainty,  cut  a  thm 
section,  put  it  in  water  and  hold  to  the  light.  The  untanned  portion 
being  really  rawhide  will  be  transparent,  while  the  tanned  part  will 

be  opaque. 

Leather  that  is  sold  by  weight  is  often  adulterated  to  increase 
its  weight.  Filling  the  body  of  the  leather  with  some  foreign  matter, 
which  serves  no  useful  purpose  except  to  increase  the  weight,  is 


AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  37 

a  practice  which  has  become  very  common  and  apparently  tanners 
do  not  deny  it.  Glucose  is  one  of  the  substances  commonly  used 
for  this  purpose.  This  may  be  found  in  small  quantities  in  most 
of  the  present  day  tanning  material.  Where  it  was  certain  that  no 
glucose  was  purposely  added  by  the  tanner,  the  testing  of  many 
samples  showed  the  presence  of  a  little  over  1  per  cent,  while  tests 
of  other  samples  showed  the  presence  of  over  16  per  cent.  (Above 
figures  taken  from  report  of  Department  of  Commerce,  Technologic 
Papers  of  the  Bureau  of  Standards  No.  138.)  The  objections  made 
by  those  who  disapprove  of  the  use  of  glucose  are,  first,  the  leather 
has  a  fictitious  weight,  and  second,  that  it  is  easily  soluble  in  water 
and  readily  absorbs  moisture ;  therefore,  it  is  not  so  suitable  for  foot- 
wear as  it  becomes  saturated  in  less  time  and  takes  longer  to  dry 
than  it  otherwise  would. 

Epsom  salts  is  another  substance  used  for  this  purpose  by  some 
tanners.  It  is  usually  drummed  in  at  the  same  time  as  glucose.  The 
disadvantages  of  its  use  are  that  the  manufacturer  buys  as  leather 
that  which  is  not  leather.  The  salt,  being  readily  soluble,  quickly 
dissolves  leaving  the  leather  porous  and  much  poorer  in  quality  than 
it  appeared  when  accepted  by  the  inspector.  Exhaustive  tests  are 
at  present  being  made  by  the  Bureau  of  Standards  at  Washington 
to  determine  the  relative  wearing  qualities  of  sole  leather  treated 
bv  this  method  and  that  which  is  untreated. 

Where  Epsom  salts  is  used  it  sometimes  makes  its  presence  known 
by  the  appearance  of  a  bloom  on  the  surface  of  the  leather.  This 
is  caused  by  spew  which  comes  from  the  body  of  the  leather.  In 
the  case  of  Epsom  salts  this  occurs  when  the  leather  is  allowed  to 
become  damp.  When  dried,  the  salts  will  remain  on  the  surface  in 
the  form  of  white  crystals. 

OAK-TANNED  LEATHER. 

Since  the  specifications  call  for  soles  of  oak,  hemlock,  or  union  tan- 
nage, it  is  thought  well  to  touch  briefly  on  the  different  qualities  of 
these  tannages. 

The  best  oak  extract  is  obtained  from  the  bark  of  the  English  oak. 
The  quality  of  this  extract  varies  with  the  age  of  the  tree,  also  with 
the  location  of  its  growth.  When  oak  bark  alone  is  used  the  color  is 
a  light  fawn.  It  is  the  most  flexible  sole  leather  and  does  not  become 
hard  through  repeated  wetting.  The  time  taken  to  tan  by  this 
process  is  so  long  that  the  price  is  usually  higher  than  that  of  other 
tannages.  It  is  considered  an  ideal  leather,  although,  owing  to  its 
tendency  to  soften  when  subjected  to  dampness,  it  wears  away  more 
quickly  w^hen  worn  in  rough,  damp  places.  To  offset  this  fault, 
valonia,  an  extract  made  from  certain  parts  of  the  acorn  cup,  is 
sometimes  used  in  conjunction  with  oak  bark.  This  makes  a  more 
tense  and  rigid  leather.  Such  leather  when  wet  does  not  soften  as 
does  leather  tanned  from  oak  bark  alone;  therefore  it  will  wear 
longer  in  rough,  damp  places. 

HEMLOCK-TANNED  LEATHER. 

For  tanning  hemlock  leather  the  extract  from  the  bark  of  the  hem- 
lock fir  is  used.  Also  the  wood  itself  yields  a  tanning  agent.  Hem- 
lock bark  and  wood  contain  so  much  resin  that  the  extract  can  not 


38  AEMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

be  dissolved  without  heat.  In  the  process  of  tanning  some  of  this 
resin  is  deposited  in  the  leather  and,  without  doubt,  tends  to  make 
it  brittle  but  waterproof.  Leather  that  is  tanned  with  hemlock  bark 
will  resist  water  and  should  wear  well  in  damp  places,  but  the  rigid 
nature  of  its  fiber  makes  it  less  suitable  for  welt  work,  as  the  fine 
stitches  often  break  it.  It  is  not  suitable  for  insoles,  as  it  does  not 
readily  lend  itself  to  the  channel-cutting  process,  and  it  is  not  con- 
sidered adaptable  for  middle  or  outer  soles,  and  should  not  be  ac- 
cepted for  said  purposes,  but  it  can  be  safely  accepted  for  top  lifts 
and  prick  lifts  and  is  preferred  over  other  tannages  for  this  use  be- 
cause of  its  firmness. 

It  was  formerly  possible  to  tell  hemlock  tanned  leather  by  the 
color  but  as  much  of  the  extract  is  now  bleached,  or  if  this  is  not 
done  the  leather  itself  is  bleached,  the  color  is  lighter  than  formerly, 
thereby  making  it  almost  impossible  to  determine  the  tannage  by  its 
color. 

UNION  LEATHER. 

Union  leather  is  tanned  with  an  extract  commercially  known  as 
Chestnut  Oak,  which  is  obtained  from  the  chestnut  or  rock  oak,  used 
in  conjunction  with  hemlock  or  quebracho.  The  leather  thus  pro- 
duced ranges  in  color  from  dark  brown  to  pink.  The  oak  lightens 
the  dark  red  of  the  hemlock.  This  leather  being  softer  than  hemlock 
is  more  mellow  and  is  suitable  for  use  on  welt  work. 

QUALITY  OF  SOLES. 

Sole  leather  may  be  firm  or  soft  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
hides  from  which  it  is  tanned,  the  degree  or  nature  of  the  tanning 
materials  used,  or  the  degree  of  rolling. 

The  ultimate  value  of  a  sole  depends  upon  its  water-resisting 
qualities,  which  are  controlled  by  the  degree  and  character  of  the 
tannage.  Slack  tanned  leather  will  absorb  water  very  readily,  while 
heavily  tanned  leather  will  be  very  resistant. 

The  wearing  quality  of  sole  leather  is  dependent  upon  the  type 
of  hide,  the  degree  of  tannage,  and  its  water-resisting  powers. 

Hides  vary  greatly  according  to  the  time  of  the  year  the  cattle 
are  slaughtered.  The  hides  taken  off  in  the  fall  are  the  best, 
spring  hides  generally  poorest.  It  is  evident  that  the  texture  or 
the  spring  hide  is  not  quite  as  firm  as  that  of  fall  hides,  and  there 
may  be  some  slight  difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  fibers  which 
might  raise  the  question  of  general  quality. 

The  degree  of  tannage  can  be  determined  accurately  by  chemical 
analysis.  The  best  way  to  arrive  at  a  set  of  constants  would  be 
to  take  a  side  of  average  sole  leather  of  good  tannage  and  cut  from  it 
a  strip  3  inches  wide,  extending  from  the  extreme  point  of  the  butt 
to  the  extreme  point  of  the  head,  and  another  strip  at  right  angles 
to  this,  extending  from  the  extreme  point  of  the  belly  to  the  back- 
bone. Subdivide  these  strips  into  pieces  3  inches  square  and  num- 
ber consecutively  from  butt  to  head  and  from  back  to  belly.  The 
3-inch  square  pieces  may  be  divided  into  equal  pieces  IJ  by  3  inches, 
one  piece  to  be  used  for  the  water-resisting  test  and  the  other  for 
the  chemical  analysis. 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  39 

The  water-resisting  powers  of  sole  leather  may  be  determined  by 
weighing  a  piece  of  leather  and  placing  it  in  water  at  60°  F.  and 
reweighing  at  the  end  of  15  minutes,  replacing  in  water,  and  weigh- 
ing at  the  end  of  every  15  minutes  until  complete  absorption  has 
taken  place.  Thus  the  rate  at  which  absorption  takes  place  can  be 
determined  as  also  the  account  of  absorption. 

The  specific  gravity  of  sole  leather  may  be  determined  in  two  ways, 
first,  by  taking  a  piece  of  leather  and  determining  its  volume  oy 
measurement,  and  from  its  weight  calculating  its  specific  gravity; 
and  second,  by  the  immersion  method,  i.  e.,  by  weighmg  the  piece  of 
leather  suspended  in  water  and  thereby  obtaining  its  volume  by 
displacement. 

From  the  water  absorption  figure  a  curve  can  be  plotted  from  the 
time  and  absorption  figures.  Properly  tanned  sole  leather  will  give 
a  curve  which  will  be  gradual  and  approximate  a  straight  line. 

Excessively  rolled  stock  will  be  water  resisting  at  first,  but  after 
a  certain  point  is  reached  the  absorption  will  become  extremely 
rapid. 

Undertanned  stock  will  absorb  water  rapidly  and  will  give  a  very 
low  absorption  value. 

Having  the  above  information  regarding  one  particular  tannage, 
other  tannages  of  standard  type  may  be  examined  by  taking  3-inch 
square  pieces  from  the  vital  parts  of  the  bend  and  comparing  the 
same  with  the  standard  side. 

With  a  series  of  standards  to  go  by,  various  tannages  could  be 
studied  and  their  adaptability  lor  sole  leather  for  Army  shoes 
definitely  determined. 

These  tests  are  of  such  a  nature  that  they  can  be  readily  made,  and 
the  information  gathered  from  them  is  valuable  in  that  it  furnishes 
a  solid  basis  for  comparison.  Having  a  set  of  standards  as  outlined 
above,  from  an  inspection  standpoint  the  element  of  unjust  personal 
ideas  would  be  replaced  by  tests  that  would  in  a  measure  get  down 
to  the  fundamental  value  of  the  leather. 

The  selection  of  the  side  upon  which  the  first  tests  are  to  be  made 
must  be  done  in  the  following  manner:  Select  a  particular  tannage 
of  one  particular  sole-leather  producer  which  is  generally  acknowl- 
edged to  be  tha  highest  grade  upon  the  market.  The  results  obtained 
from  this  tannage  will  be  considered  as  standard,  say  100  per  cent, 
and  subsequent  tests  to  be  recorded  on  other  tannages  as  plus  or  minus 
percentages  above  or  below  the  standard.  After  a  sufficient  number 
of  tests  of  this  nature  are  made,  definite  limits  can  be  established, 
i.  e.,  the  specific  gravity  and  the  rate  and  amount  of  absorption  for  a 
certain  length  of  time  to  lie  between  certain  fixed  limits. 

ROLLING. 

Certain  tannages  are  soft  and  mellow,  while  others,  like  hemlock, 
are  firm  and  hard.  The  amount  of  tanning  materials  the  leather  con- 
tains determines,  in  a  large  measure,  its  degree  of  solidity.  A  soft, 
loose  piece  of  leather  subjected  to  a  thorough  rolling  process  becomes 
harder  and  harder  the  more  its  fibers  are  compressed,  but  the  hard- 
ness obtained  entirely  by  the  rolling  process  does  not  increase  the 
actual  wearing  qualities  or  resistance  to  water. 


40  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

One  of  the  important  problems  that  confronted  the  inspector 
during  the  war  was  that  of  rolling  sole  leather.  The  question  was 
raised  why  a  manufacturer  should  wish  to  roll  leather  which  had 
already  been  rolled  by  the  tanner.  The  reason  may  be  understood  by 
first  considering  why  the  tanner  rolls  leather.  It  is  because  it  im- 
proves its  appearance  and  makes  it  more  salable.  If  leather  were  only 
dried  after  coming  from  the  tan  pits,  without  being  either  set  out  or 
rolled,  it  would  have  a  crumpled  appearance  and  not  be  very  solid. 
The  setting  out  makes  it  smooth  on  the  surface,  and  the  rolling  makes 
it  appear  to  be  firmer  and  better  filled. 

The  amount  of  rolling  done  by  the  tanner  is  usualy  regulated  by  the 
requirements  of  his  customers,  it  being  understood  that  the  manu- 
facturer can  further  compress  it  if  he  so  desires.  Furthermore, 
a  manufacturer  who  makes  a  variety  of  civilian  shoes  prefers  to  roll 
the  cut  parts  to  the  degree  of  solidity  that  will  best  adapt  them  to 
the  various  uses  to  which  they  are  to  be  put. 

It  has  been  shown  that  leather  can  be  injured  with  great  ease  when 
wet.  This  being  so,  it  is  agreed  that  anything  that  can  be  done 
with  the  leather  which  will  delay  its  saturation  must  add  to  its  wear- 
ing power,  and  hence  to  its  value.  Before  leather  can  become  satu- 
rated, the  water  must  percolate  between  the  fibers.  These  spaces  con- 
tain a  quantity  of  hide  substance  as  well  as  other  gummy  matter  de- 
posited by  the  tanning  agent.  In  proportion  to  the  completeness 
with  which  the  spaces  are  filled  the  percolation  of  the  water  will  be 
made  more  difficult. 

When  a  hide  is  removed  from  the  vats,  this  interfiber  substance  is 
saturated.  When  it  dries  it  shrinks  and  leaves  a  corresponding  space 
unfilled.  It  is  argued  that,  through  compression,  the  shape  of  these 
spaces  is  changed  by  contracting  them  to  meet  the  hardened  Tanno 
gelatine,  thus  making  a  firmer  and  better  filled  leather.  The  danger 
of  this  practice  lies  in  rolling  the  leather  too  wet,  rolling  the  leather 
too  dry,  and  the  use  of  too  much  pressure. 

Leather  should  never  be  rolled  when  soggy,  as  when  this  is  done  a 
portion  of  the  tanning  agent,  which  is  then  in  solution,  will  be 
squeezed  out,  thus  undoing  some  of  the  work  of  the  tanner. 

The  interfiber  substance  when  tanned  is  very  hard  and  is  insoluble 
in  water,  therefore  to  roll  leather  when  dry  would  simply  be  to 
crush  the  fiber,  which  is  also  dry,  and  grind  it  to  dust  against  the 
hard  hide  substance. 

Leather  should  not  be  rolled  too  hard,  as  obviously  when  the  fibers 
are  compressed  sufficiently  to  fill  the  space  left  by  the  shrinkage  of 
the  hide  substance,  any  further  pressure  will  have  the  effect  of  bruis- 
ing and  straining  the  fiber  and  robbing  it  of  its  nature.  Thus,  if 
leather  is  rolled  at  all  by  the  shoe  manufacturer  it  should  only  be  done 
when  it  is  mellowed  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  "mulled."  This 
means  that  not  only  has  water  percolated  between  the  fibers  but  it  has 
been  absorbed  by  them  sufficiently  to  render  them  soft  and  pliable. 
However,  it  should  not  be  necessary  for  the  manufacturer  to  roll 
leather.  If  the  tanner  has  prepared  it  for  Army  shoe  purposes  and 
used  a  large  proportion  of  the  more  filling  tanning  extracts,  it  should 
already  be  so  rigid  and  well  filled  that  any  further  compression  would 
reduce  rather  than  increase  its  value. 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.      *  41 

INSPECTION  BEFORE  AND  AFTER  ROLLING. 

During  the  war  occasions  arose  when  it  was  deemed  advisable  to 
permit  the  rolling  of  soles.  In  view  of  this  fact  it  is  not  inconceiv- 
able that  similar  occasions  might  arise  in  the  future.  Should  such 
be  the  case,  a  ruling  should  be  made  that  the  soles  must  be  inspected 
before  as  well  as  after  rolling,  for  the  reason  that  soles  that  would 
not  be  accepted  before  rolling  might  be  so  altered  in  appearance 
after  being  rolled,  as  to  create  a  doubt  in  the  mind  of  the  inspector 
relative  to  their  acceptability.  They  should  be  inspected  after  roll- 
ing to  insure  that  the  fibers  have  not  been  injured  and  that  they  still 
measure  up  to  the  specified  iron. 

DESIRABLE  CHARACTERISTICS  IN   SOLES. 

Sole  leather  inspectors  should  seek  flexibility  in  soles.  It  has  been 
ascertained  that  the  foot  of  the  average  walker  will  be  flexed  two 
thousand  times  in  walking  a  mile,  therefore  a  sole  will  be  bent  and 
straightened  an  equal  number  of  times.  Leather  must  be  flexible  to 
stand  this  strain  otherwise  it  is  liable  to  break  where  the  bending 
takes  place.  This  is  not  uncommon  in  leather  tanned  with  pure 
hemlock.  It  may  also  occur  in  oak  tanned  leather  where  too  great 
a  proportion  of  Velonia  has  been  used.  The  amount  of  nature  left 
in  the  fiber  is  also  important.  This  may  be  tested  by  cutting  a  thin 
section  of  the  leather  and  rolling  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  If 
the  nature  is  gone  from  the  fiber  it  will  crumble  to  dust,  but  if  it 
still  retains  its  nature  only  the  filling  will  be  rubbed  out.  A  good 
test  is  to  note  how  fine  a  stitch  can  be  taken  on  the  Goodj^ear  stitch- 
ins^  machine  and  how  much  strain  this  finely  stitched  leather  will 
stand.  When  attaching  the  soles  of  w^elt  shoes  many  stitches  are 
taken  to  the  inch,  and  if  the  fiber  is  robbed  of  its  nature  the  sole  will 
break  away  in  wear  along  the  row  of  stitches.  When  the  fiber  of 
the  leather  has  lost  its  nature  the  leather  quickly  grinds  away  in 
wear,  whereas  leather  that  has  a  lot  of  nature  left  in  the  fiber  wears 
longer  as  it  does  not  break  away.  This  lack  of  nature  is  caused  by 
the  tanning  agent  contracting  the  fiber  too  forcibly.  Hemlock  has 
this  tendency.     It  is  especially  true  with  acid-tanned  leather. 

The  fineness  of  the  fiber  is  another  test  of  the  quality.  To  illus- 
trate: If  two  pieces  of  leather,  one  having  a  fine  fiber  and  another 
having  a  coarse  fiber,  are  held  against  a  revolving,  grinding  stone  or 
other  abrasive  surface  it  will  be  found  that  the  long-fibered  piece 
wears  away  much  more  quickly  than  that  having  the  fine  fiber.  This 
is  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  cutting  of  one  of  the  coarse  fibers 
destroys  a  much  greater  proportion  of  leather  substance  than  does 
the  cutting  of  a  fine  one.  Therefore,  in  selecting  sole  leather,  fine- 
ness of  fiber  is  an  important  index  of  quality.  A  simple  method  of 
estimating  the  length  of  the  fiber  is  to  bend  the  sole  in  the  direction 
of  the  grain.  If  the  fibers  are  short,  the  surface  will  hardly  be  dis- 
turbed. If  the  fibers  are  long,  the  grain  pipes  or  forms  in  ridges, 
the  piping  increasing  in  size  in  proportion  to  the  length  of  the  fiber. 

It  is  important  that  the  leather  be  nonabsorbent  as,  in  addition  to 
the  liability  that  the  wearer  may  have  damp  feet,  leather  is  much 
easier  to  bruise  when  wet  than  when  dry ;  therefore  it  is  more  quickly 
cut  by  rough  stones  and  gravel  when  wet,  thus  reducing  the  wearing 


42  •     ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

quality.     Here  again  the  desirability  of  having  an  apparatus  for  de- 
termining the  water-resisting  powers  of  leather  makes  itself  manifest. 

MULLING. 

As  the  term  "  mull "  will  be  more  or  less  frequently  used  in  dealing 
with  the  process  of  construction,  a  brief  explanation  of  what  it 
means  may  be  of  some  value.  It  has  already  been  explained  that  the 
spaces  between  the  fibers  are  more  or  less  completely  filled  with  a 
material  termed  "  Tanno  "  gelatine  or  hide  substance.  When  leather 
is  immersed,  the  water  quickly  percolates  the  spaces  and  surrounds 
the  fiber,  but  leather  is  not  mulled  until  the  fibers  have  absorbed 
enough  of  this  watet  to  render  them  soft  and  pliable.  For  an  illus- 
tration: A  vial  is  filled  with  grains  of  rice,  representing  the  fiber. 
If  water  is  now  poured  into  the  vial  the  water  quickly  filters  between 
the  grains,  but  some  time  must  elapse  before  the  grains  themselves 
absorb  this  water  and  become  soft.  This  is  also  true  of  the  fibers  of 
leather. 

The  approved  method  of  mulling  is  to  permit  the  leather  to  soak 
until  it  has  taken  in  all  the  water  it  will.  This  will  usually  be  when 
air  bubbles  cease  to  rise  to  the  surface.  The  leather  should  then  be 
removed  from  the  tank,  put  in  a  damp  place,  and  covered  with  damp 
burlap  for  from  12  to  24  hours  before  using. 

UNITS  CONSIDERED  UNDER  SOLE  LEATHER. 

Under  the  classification  of  sole  leather  are  placed  all  those  parts 
which  are  used  in  the  construction  of  the  bottom  of  the  shoe,  namely, 
the  outer  sole,  middle  sole,  inner  sole,  top  lift,  prick  lift,  heel  lift, 
counter,  and  bottom  filler. 

OUTER   SOLE. 

In  examining  outer  soles  presented  for  inspection  the  inspector 
should  ever  have  in  mind  the  usage  which  this  part  of  the  bottom 
must  undergo  in  the  course  of  manufacture  and  wear.  Leather  for 
this  particular  unit  should  possess  flexibility.  It  should  be  able  to 
withstand  the  constant  bending  to  which  it  is  subjected  in  wear.  It 
should  possess  a  tough,  closely  knitted  fiber  to  insure  maximum  re- 
sistance to  the  grinding,  abrasive  wear  of  rough,  graveled  roads. 
It  should  be  well  filled  to  insure  the  greatest  possible  resistance  to 
water  penetration.  The  specifications  plainly  state  the  weight  of 
the  outer  sole.  The  item  permits  of  no  question  or  deviation.  The 
outer  sole  must  be  cut  from  the  best  part  of  the  hide,  i.  e.,  the  bend. 
The  bend  should  not  be  longer  than  52  inches,  nor  wider  than  28 
inches.  The  grain  should  be  fine  and  free  from  any  imperfections 
which  might  injure  the  wearing  quality.  Such  imperfections  include 
open  grub  holes,  brands,  or  deep  open  grain  scars.  Soles  having 
soft  spots  or  slaughter  cuts  must  not  be  accepted.  The  specifications, 
however,  permit  the  use  of  soles  having  heeled-over  grubs  and  wire 
scratches.  It  is  particularly  emphasized  in  the  specifications  that 
the  outer  soles  must  be  of  the  best  quality,  and  when  a  manufacturer 
accepts  a  contract  for  making  Army  shoes  that  is  what  he  agrees  to 
furnish.    The  inspector  must  accept  nothing  less. 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  45 

MIDDLE   SOLES. 

Specifications  state  that  middle  soles  shall  be  cut  from  full-grain 
oak  or  union  tanned  leather  backs  of  the  best  quality.  They  should 
be  fine  and  firm,  free  from  brands,  cuts,  or  holes.  This  office  inter- 
prets the  specifications  for  middle  soles  to  mean  that  in  every  respect, 
with  the  exception  of  weight,  they  should  be  of  the  same  fiber  and 
quality  as  the  outer  sole. 

INSOLE. 

The  most  important  purpose  of  the  insole  is  to  act  as  a  base  to 
which  the  upper  and  the  bottom  are  attached,  hence  the  character  of 
the  material  must  be  carefully  examined.  It  has  been  said  that  the 
insole  is  the  foundation  of  the  shoe.  The  outsole  may  be  of  the 
very  best  material,  but  what  advantage  is  this  if  the  insole  is  defi- 
cient? "^Yhen  the  outsole  is  worn  through  it  can,  with  more  or  less 
ease,  be  repaired,  but  a  faulty  insole  renders  the  shoe  useless,  even 
while  the  outsole  is  in  good  condition;  yet  it  can  not  be  repaired 
unless  the  shoe  is  remade.  Therefore,  in  selecting  insoles,  great 
care  should  be  exercised  to  insure  efficiency. 

A  prime  requisite  for  a  Goodyear  insole  is  flexibility.  The  belly, 
therefore,  and  parts  of  the  shoulder  of  special  tannages,  are  most 
suitable  for  this  class  of  insole.  Goodyear  insoles  should  preferably 
be  from  oak  tanned  leather.  The  fiber  must  not  be  too  fine  or  it  will 
break  away  at  the  inseaming  operation.  The  fiber  must  not  be  too 
long  or  the  seam  will  pull  out  of  shape.  The  material  must  not  be 
too  soft  or  a  grinning  seam  will  result.  One  of  the  requirements  of 
an  insole  is  that  it  be  of  sufficient  substance  so  that  after  being  chan- 
neled the  required  depth  there  will  be  sufficient  material  left  to  hold 
down  the  heavy  upper  to  the  outline  of  the  last.  Insoles  presented 
for  inspection  should  be  carefully  examined  for  the  following  quali- 
fications :  Flexibility,  ability  to  hold  the  stitching  with  a  strong  ten- 
sion, ability  to  withstand  great  stress,  i.  e.,  the  tendency  to  break 
away  with  constant  bending,  and  ability  to  withstand  dampness.  An 
examination  of  many  reclaimed  Army  shoes  shows  a  pronounced  tend- 
ency of  the  insole  to  crack  on  the  grain  side.  This  is  due  to  the  alter- 
nate Avetting  and  drying  from  the  moisture  of  the  foot.  Experience 
with  civilian  shoes  shows  that  this  tendency  is  less  pronounced  in 
shoes  having  the  grain  lightly  removed  by  buffing,  and  it  would  seem 
that  a  corresponding  result  should  be  obtained  in  Army  shoes  by 
the  adoption  of  a  similar  method. 

The  center  of  the  belly — that  is,  the  part  between  the  two  shanks — 
contains  the  best  leather  for  insoles.  It  is  more  even  in  substance, 
less  liable  to  stretch,  has  most  strength  in  its  fiber,  and  is  most 
mellow.  When  inspecting  insoles  cut  from  shoulders  care  should 
be  taken  that  the  fiber  is  of  suitable  length  for  the  purpose,  as  soles 
cut  too  near  the  backbone  are  apt  to  be  too  short  fibered.  The 
slightest  tendency  to  crack  on  the  grain  should  be  sufficient  cause 
for  rejection. 

This  office  interprets  the  specifications  to  mean  that  the  minimum 
iron  on  bottom  stock  relates  to  the  piece  of  stock  after  it  has  been 
through  what  ever  operations  are  necessary  to  prepare  it  for  use  in 
bottoming  the  shoe,  i.  e.,  if  the  operation  be  splitting,  fleshing,  or 
leveling,  this  is  to  be  done  before  the  selection  is  put  before  the 


44"  ARMY  SHOES   AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

inspector,  and  the  minimum  iron  in  specifications  will  regulate  the 
acceptance  of  stock  after  fitting. 

TOP    LIFTS. 

Top  lifts  shall  be  cut  from  leather  of  the  same  quality  as  the  out- 
sole  and  from  the  bend  portion  of  the  hide.  It  must  be  firm  and  of 
fine  grain,  free  from  any  defect  that  will  lessen  the  wear.  In  view 
of  the  fact  that  the  top  lifts  are  not  subject  to  flexing  in  wear,  it  is 
permitted  to  accept  top  lifts  of  hemlock  tannage,  as  in  some  respects 
this  tannage  is  the  one  best  adapted  for  this  purpose.  Top  lifts  that 
have  been  put  through  the  condensing  or  compressing  process  must 
not  be  accepted.        ^ 

PRICK  LIFTS. 

Prick  lifts  shall  in  all  respects  conform  to  the  requirements  of  the 
top  lifts,  except  that  the  maximum  weight  need  not  be  so  great. 

HEEL  LIFTING. 

It  is  expected  and  required  that  the  heel  lifting  be  of  good  sub- 
stantial leather  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Obviously,  the  same  tex- 
ture and  fiber  need  not  be  expected  in  the  heel  lifts  that  is  required  in 
an  outsole  or  middle  sole,  yet  they  should  be  of  a  firm  substance  and 
free  from  holes  or  cuts.  Heels  should  never  be  built  with  the  front 
higher  than  the  back,  therefore,  if  good  results  are  to  be  obtained,  the 
front  of  the  lift  must  not  be  heavier  than  the  back.  As  both  sides 
of  the  heel  must  be  alike  in  height,  lifts  should  not  be  accepted  with 
one  side  heavier  than  the  other.  Lifts  should  be  clean  of  flesh, 
otherwise  it  will  be  impossible  to  obtain  a  good  finish. 

GOUGE  LIFTS. 

Former  specifications  for  Army  shoes  required  the  use  of  a  rand 
at  the  bottom  of  the  heel  so  that  it  might  conform  more  readily 
to  the  convex  surface  of  the  heel  seat.  During  the  process  of  manu- 
facture and  wear  of  the  shoe,  this  rand  was  found  to  show  a  strong 
tendency  to  break  out,  and  was  therefore  discarded  in  favor  of  the 
gouged  bottom  lift.  This  lift,  to  be  satisfactory,  must  be  properly 
gouged  so  that  when  the  heel  is  compressed  the  under  surface  will 
present  an  appearance  and  shape  similar  to  the  heel  upon  which 
the  rand  has  been  used.  It  must  be  sufficiently  gouged  or  in  the 
compressing  there  will  be  an  excessive  pressure  in  the  middle  of  the 
heel  while  the  edges  will  not  receive  enough  to  make  them  solid, 
and  the  finished  heel  may  check. 

WELTING. 

It  is  important  that  the  proper  substance  be  used  in  welting. 
Shoulder  welting  of  proper  fiber  and  flexibility  is  found  most  suit- 
able for  Army  shoes.  The  welting  must  be  full  grain  and  cut  from 
leather  tanned  for  this  purpose.  No  buffalo  leather  will  be  accepted. 
The  inspector  should  see  that  the  welting  is  not  too  hard  or  bony, 
as  this  kind  of  material  makes  good  inseaming  almost  impossible. 
It  should  not  be  too  soft  or  spong}- ,  as  it  will  take  up  and  stretch  in 
the  inseaming  operation.     The  inspector  should  guard  against  an 


AKMi    SHOES   AND   SHOE  i^ASTS.  45 

excess  of  short  laps.  It  has  been  found  that  in  a  roll  of  welting 
there  may  occur  a  number  of  splices  of  inferior  welting,  and  in 
such  cases  the  entire  roll  or  hank  should  be  rejected.  The  proper 
groove  and  bevel  are  important. 

COUNTERS. 

Counters  must  be  of  good  quality  sole  leather,  made  flat,  and 
must  conform  to  the  standard  pattern  furnished.  The  inspector 
must  examine  the  counter  for  flesh  cuts  and  soft  spots.  Extremely 
hard,  bony  shin  counters  should  not  be  accepted,  as  it  is  difficult  to 
make  such  counters  properly  conform  to  the  shape  of  the  last. 
The  principal  use  of  the  counter  is  to  brace  the  heel  section  of  the 
shoe,  as  without  it  the  upper  will  be  crowded  down  over  the  heel. 
It  also  serves  to  center  the  foot  over  the  heel  when  walking.  There- 
fore, a  counter  must  be  sufficiently  rigid  to  perform  these  functions. 
The  skiving  of  the  counter  is  important.  Unless  the  edges  are 
skived  to  a  proper  weight  at  the  bottom  it  will  be  impossible  for 
the  laster  to  secure  a  good  heel  seat;  if  the  ends  are  too  thick  the 
butts  of  the  welts  will  bulge ;  if  the  top  edge  is  too  blunt  the  counter 
will  present  an  unsightly  appearance  on  the  outside  and  will  very 
likely  injure  the  foot  of  the  wearer  at  this  point. 

BOTTOM  FILLERS. 

Bottom  fillers  are  for  the  purpose  of  filling  the  cavity  existing 
between  the  ribs  of  the  channeled  insole.  The  value  and  necessity 
of  this  filler  is  evident.  It  facilitates  the  making  of  an  even  bottom 
both  inside  and  out.  It  serves  to  prevent  the  foot  pressure  from 
forcing  the  insole  down  and  forming  ridges  and  hollows.  It  also 
helps  to  make  the  shoe  more  damp-proof. 

The  use  of  Besto  or  Arabol,  preparations  of  ground  cork  and 
cement,  have  superseded  that  of  the  solid  filler  in  civilian  shoes 
and  may  be  considered  satisfactory  for  that  purpose,  but  after  ex- 
perimenting with  both  kinds  it  was  decided  that  the  solid  filler  best 
answers  the  purpose  for  the  Army  shoe. 

It  is  required  by  the  specifications  that  fillers  be  of  sole  leather 
and  must  be  4  iron  in  thickness.  It  is  not  necessary  that  leather 
for  fillers  be  of  the  same  nature  or  fiber  as  are  those  parts  which 
are  subject  to  abrasive  wear. 

The  inspector  should  see  that  fillers  are  of  proper  weight,  free 
from  holes,  and  sufficiently  rigid  to  prevent  creeping. 

The  bottom  filling  as  at  present  used  in  the  Army  shoes  comes  in 
two  parts,  i.  e.,  the  forepart  filler  and  the  shank  filler.  These  should 
join  at  the  waist.  The  forepart  filler  is  skived  with  a  scarf  at  the 
l3reast,  while  the  shank  filler  is  correspondingly  skived  in  order 
that  the  two  might  lap  and  leave  an  even  joint.  While  every  pre- 
caution is  taken  by  the  inspector  to  insure  the  proper  lap  at  this 
joint,  it  is  sometimes  found  in  the  finished  shoe  that  they  are  lapped 
in  such  fashion  as  to  leave  a  depression  at  this  joint,  or  they  may 
overlap  to  such  an  extent  as  to  leave  a  bunch.  Either  of  these 
faults  is  serious.  To  overcome  this,  it  is  recommended  that  a 
one-piece  filler  be  used  that  will  completely  fill  the  space  between 
the  channels  extending  from  the  extreme  end  of  the  toe  to  that 
part  of  the  upper  on  the  heel  seat  which  is  broken  over  in  the  lasting. 


Chapter  VII. 
FINDINGS. 


THREAD. 


In  the  making  of  Army  shoes  three  kinds  of  thread  are  used — 
cotton,  linen,  and  silk.  There  is  considerable  difference  in  the  fiber 
from  which  these  various  threads  are  made.  The  fiber  from  which 
linen  thread  is  made  is  obtained  from  the  stalk  or  stem  of  the  plant. 
Cotton  fiber  differs  from  flax  in  that  it  is  obtained  from  the  fruit  of 
the  plant.  Cotton  fiber  is  quite  free  from  any  joint  or  unevenness, 
there  being  only  one  cell  in  its  entire  length,  hence  it  is  smoother  than 
flax;  and,  on  account  of  its  fineness,  it  can  be  spun  into  much  finer 
yarn. 

The  method  of  obtaining  flax  fiber  is  by  "  retting."  This  process 
consists  of  exposing  the  plant  to  the  elements  until  the  woody  tissues 
surrounding  the  fibers  are  decomposed.  Care  must  be  used  that  over 
retting  does  not  occur,  as  in  that  case  the  fiber  will  become  brittle 
and  weak.  Flax  fiber  also  suffers  deterioration  in  the  bleaching 
process,  therefore  the  whiter  it  is  bleached  the  weaker  it  usually  is. 

Cotton  withstands  the  damp  better  than  flax.  From  experiments 
made  it  would  appear  that  alternate  moistening  and  drying  on  hot 
cylinders  has  little  or  no  ill  effect  on  the  cotton  fibers.  It  also  has 
been  concluded  that  the  tensile  strength  of  cotton  is  not  injured  by 
the  bleaching  process. 

Linen  is  the  thread  most  commonly  used  for  bottoming  purposes, 
although  in  the  cheaper  grades  cotton  is  used.  Of  late  cotton  is 
being  used  more  extensively  for  upper  stitching  purposes,  even  in 
the  better  grades  of  shoes.  Those  who  favor  the  use  of  cotton  for 
upper  stitching  claim  that  it  possesses  all  the  characteristics  required 
in  a  shoe  such  as  that  made  under  Specifications  1258.  These  quali- 
fications are  tensile  strength,  ability  to  withstand  dampness,  and 
nonelasticity  of  the  thread.  As  regards  the  tensile  strength,  it  is 
claimed  that  a  good  grade  of  cotton  with  the  proper  twist  is  equal 
to  the  same  size  linen  thread.  The  twist  has  an  important  bearing 
on  the  strength.  If  two  finished  cotton  threads  of  uniform  size  are 
twisted,  both  of  No.  40,  one  having  three  cords  and  the  other  made 
up  of  six  cords,  the  one  having  six  cords  would  be  found  to  be  the 
stronger.  This  is  due  to  the  more  intricate  twist.  Regarding  ability 
to  withstand  dampness,  cotton  is  superior  to  linen. 

tSilk  is  also  considerably  affected  by  the  bleaching  process,  actual 
tests  showing  that  although  the  strength  of  a  certain  size  yellow  silk 
is  7^  pounds,  the  same  size  white  is  6  pounds,  while  a  black  is  only  5 
pounds. 
46 


ARMY   SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  47 

Compared  with  silk,  cotton  is  less  elastic,  hence  a  tight  seam  may 
be  secured  with  less  tension  than  with  silk.  This  tightness  of  the 
seam  is  important,  and  if  there  is  any  free  play  between  the  parts, 
cotton  will  stand  much  better  than  would  silk,  as  it  is  well  known 
that  the  latter  has  a  tendency  to  cut  off.  The  stitching  operator 
favors  the  use  of  cotton  because  it  possesses  a  uniform  thickness, 
smoothness,  and  softness ;  also  there  is  an  absence  of  any  tendency  to 
curl.  For  this  reason  it  is  possible  to  use  a  needle  with  a  smaller 
eye  as  there  will  be  less  friction  caused  by  the  passage  of  the  thread, 
and  a  good  cotton  can  not  be  much  affected  with  the  slight  friction 
which  does  take  place. 

One  of  the  undoubted  points  of  superiority  of  silk  over  any  other 
thread  is  the  appearance  of  the  stitch.  To  some  extent  this  ap- 
pearance may  be  imitated  by  the  use  of  the  silk-finish  cotton. 

Threads  may  have  either  a  left  or  a  right  hand  twist,  the  object 
being  that  the  twist  will  throw  the  loop  in  the  direction  of  the 
point  of  the  shuttle,  thus  reducing  the  chances  of  missing  a  stitch. 
The  left  hand  twist  is  recommended  for  single  needled  machines 
and  also  for  the  right  hand  needle  of  double  needled  machines.  In 
the  left  hand  needle  of  the  two  needled  machines  the  right  hand  twist 
should  be  used.  It  should  be  remembered  that  cotton  threads  are 
made  up  of  from  two  to  nine  strands.  The  tendency  to  untwist  in 
use  is  most  marked  in  those  having  the  least  number  of  strands.  As, 
for  example,  when  six  strands  are  used,  these  are  first  wound  in 
pairs  and  the  pairs  are  then  wound  in  an  opposite  direction.  This 
method  results  in  less  tendency  to  untwist.    This  is  not  so  of  silk. 

Even  on  the  higher  grades  of  shoes,  when  cost  is  not  considered, 
silk  is  not  used  for  both  top  and  bottom  threads  due  to  the  greater 
elasticity  of  silk. 

A  tighter  seam  may  be  obtained  by  using  cotton  in  the  shuttle. 
The  fact  that  this  combination  is  most  universally  used  in  civilian 
shoes  would  seem  to  indicate  that  it  is  sufficiently  strong.  For 
heavy  work,  such  as  shoes  made  under  Specifications  412-2-9,  linen, 
if  intelligently  used  in  the  stitching  operation,  should  be  most  sat- 
isfactory. 

The  color  of  the  thread  is  a  matter  which  should  be  given  con- 
siderable attention  by  the  inspector,  as  in  the  past  it  has  often  been 
found  necessary  to  reject  shoes  at  the  final  inspection  owing  to  the 
decided  contrast  between  the  color  of  the  thread  used  and  the  color 
of  the  upper.  It  is  desirable  at  all  times  that  threads  which  show 
on  the  outside  should  closely  approximate  the  upper  in  color. 

At  frequent  and  irregular  intervals  laboratory  tests  are  made  of 
thread  and  stay  tape  which  are  taken  directly  from  the  machine. 
Silk  and  cotton  threads  are  given  a  tensile  test  and  they  are  re- 
quired to  stand  a  pull  of  12  pounds.  If  after  this  any  doubt  remains 
regarding  the  quality,  a  further  test  is  made  by  the  use  of  acids. 
Specifications  make  no  mention  regarding  the  tensile  strain  which 
linen  thread  must  withstand,  nor  can  it  be  found  that  any  standard 
exists.  Under  these  circumstances  the  tests  must  be  more  or  less 
perfunctory.  ^  It  is  recommended  that  tests  be  made  of  a  number 
of  the  recognized  higher  grades  of  linen  threads  and  from  the  re- 
sults of  these  a  fair  standard  be  established  which  may  govern  all 
future  tests. 


48  ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

NEEDLES. 

The  needle  used  in  stitching  uppers  has  several  important  parts. 
The  gauge  of  the  needle  must  be  such  that  it  makes  a  hole  sufficiently 
large  for  the  thread  to  pass  through  the  leather  without  undue 
friction  and  that  the  lock  may  be  drawn  into  the  correct  position 
without  unnecessary  tension  on  the  top  thread.  The  particular 
gauge  required  will  depend  upon  the  thread  being  used  and  the 
nature  of  the  material  being  stitched,  it  being  evident  that  the  lock 
made  with  a  soft  silk  would  easily  pass  through  a  hole  that  would 
be  too  small  for  a  hard  linen  thread.  Also  the  softer  and  lighter  ma- 
terials used  in  shoes  of  Specifications  1258  would  not  require  as  large 
a  hole  as  the  heavier  material  of  shoes  of  Specifications  412-2-9. 
The  hole  made  by  the  needle  should  be  completely  filled  by  the 
thread,  but  should  not  be  so  small  that  the  thread  is  injured  as  it 
is  drawn  through  the  material. 

The  eye  of  the  needle  is  important  since  the  thread  must  pass 
through  it  continuously  in  forming  the  stitch.  It  should  be  as  large 
as  possible  for  the  gauge  of  the  needle.  This  is  so  that  the  thread 
will  not  be  injured  by  the  friction  in  passing:  throuah  it  even  when 
the  hole  made  in  the  leather  is  sufficiently  large.  It  is  also  impor- 
tant that  the  needle  have  a  well-finished  eye  as.  manifestly,  if  any 
small  burr  or  roughness  is  left  it  will  have  an  injurious  effect  on  the 
thread  as  it  passes  through.  This  latter  feature  is  considered  of 
such  importance  by  one  large  manufacturer  that  girls  are  employed 
to  place  each  needle  in  a  holding  device  and  smooth  finish  the  eye  by 
passing  back  and  forth  through  it  a  thread  coated  with  a  fine 
abrasive.  This  eliminates  the  possibility  of  issuing  needles  to  the 
operators  which  may  have  improperly  finished  eyes. 

Needles  are  made  with  different  shaped  points,  and  the  selection 
of  the  point  best  adapted  for  the  Avork  is  important.  When  linings 
of  shoes  of  Specifications  1258  are  being  stitched  the  round  point 
should  be  used,  as  this  style  point  does  not  cut  the  material,  but 
merely  pushes  its  way  between  the  threads.  For  stitching  uppers  of 
Army  shoes  the  best  results  are  obtained  with  the  triangular  point. 

The  strength  of  an  upper  seam  is  ffone  when  the  loops  of  the 
stitch  are  destroyed,  hence  the  stitch  which  is  least  exposed  to  injury 
would  seem  to  be  the  one  which  would  last  the  longest.  Observa- 
tion and  inquiry  from  stitching-room  experts  lead  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  triangular-pointed  needle  is  the  one  which  secures  the  most 
protection  for  the  stitch,  because  when  the  stitch  is  being  made  the 
thread  sinks  into  the  cut  made  by  the  needle,  thus  affording  more 
protection  to  the  stitch  and  insuring  longer  life. 

LACES. 

Laces  must  be  of  fast  color  and  tubular  weave.  They  must  be 
able  to  withstand  a  tensile  strength  test  of  120  pounds.  At  irregular 
periods  tests  are  made  at  this  office  of  laces  taken  at  random  from 
those  being  used  in  the  factories  making  Army  shoes.  These  tests 
are  made  to  determine  the  tensile  strength,  durability  of  the  color, 
and  the  manner  in  which  the  metal  tips  are  attached.  After  testing 
for  the  above  qualifications,  a  section  of  the  lace  (about  2  inches  long) 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  49 

is  taken  and  from  it  the  threads  are  separated  and  counted.  The 
number  of  threads  have  been  found  to  vary,  but  in  no  instance 
where  the  number  of  threads  is  less  than  88  has  the  lace  been  able  to 
successfully  meet  the  required  test  of  120  pounds.  In  addition  to 
these  periodical  tests,  the  inspector  at  the  factory  is  required  to  make 
daily  examinations  of  the  laces  and  assure  himself  that  no  laces  are 
being  used  that  are  not  of  the  specified  length  and  color. 

TACKS. 

All  heel-seat  tacks  should  be  of  a  length  sufficient  to  firmly  attach 
the  parts  without  leaving  any  unnecessary  surplus  of  metal  on  the 
inside  of  the  heel  seat.  Tacks  used  for  attaching  the  insole  to  the 
last  should  be  not  larger  than  2^  ounce,  as  any  larger  size  leaves 
the  grain  of  the  insole  broken  when  withdrawn  and  may  quickly 
destroy  the  bottom  of  the  last. 

HEEL  NAILS. 

Heel-attaching  nails  should  be  of  Swede's  iron  No.  14,  of  proper 
■  length  for  the  purpose.  They  should  be  of  the  type  known  as  "  half 
rough  "  to  enable  them  to  more  firmly  grip  the  fibers  of  the  leather. 
Owing  to  the  great  thickness  of  leather  in  the  soles  of  garrison  shoes, 
it  is  not  necessary  that  the  heel  nails  should  clinch  or  burr  on  the 
inside  of  the  heel  seat.  It  is  sufficient  that  they  barely  show  on  the 
surface. 

EYELETS. 

Corrected  Specifications  412-2-9,  June  2,  1919,  state  that  eyelets 
must  have  celluloid  tops.  This  style  eyelet  is  much  to  be  preferred 
to  the  one  which  is  merely  enameled,  as  the  latter  soon  wears  off 
leaving  the  metal  surface  exposed,  thus  causing  the  laces  to  be  quickly 
worn  away.  The  diameter  of  the  hole  of  the  eyelet  is  stated  in  the 
specifications  but  the  length  of  the  barrel  is  not.  Where  the  eyelet 
facing  and  quarter  are  properly  leveled  a  barrel  five  thirty-seconds 
of  an  inch  gives  the  ideal  clinch.  A  longer  barrel  would  leave  a 
series  of  rough  edges  at  the  clinch  in  addition  to  which  the  clinch 
would  not  be  so  strong. 

SHANK. 

One  of  the  useful  purposes  served  by  the  shank  is  to  assist  in  pre- 
serving the  arch  of  the  instep.  The  opinion  has  been  advanced  that 
the  shank  used  in  the  present  Army  shoe  tends  to  make  it  too  rigid, 
but  when  it  is  considered  that  the  point  where  the  shoe  is  flexed  in 
walking  is  at  the  joint  just  in  front  of  the  shank,  this  opinion  does 
not  seem  to  be  well  founded.  It  is  not  difficult  to  imagine  that  the 
duties  of  a  soldier  might  include  walking  over  hard,  broken  surfaces, 
digtring.  or  climbing  ladders.  In  this  case  a  rigid  shank  would  be 
desirable.  Hence  the  opinion  is  advanced  here  that  the  design  of 
shank  as  used  well  serves  this  purpose.  Shanks  should  be  as  wide  as 
possible  without  interfering  with  the  inseam.     They  should  be  of 

3528.5—21 4 


50  AEMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

the  length  required  to  properly  lap  the  forepart  filler,  and  should 
reach  from  under  the  heel  far  enough  forward  to  give  support  to  all 
that  part  of  the  sole  which  does  not  rest  upon  the  ground. 

The  size  of  the  shank  and  steel  should  be  as  follows :  Thickness  of 
steel,  one  thirty-seconds  of  an  inch ;  width  of  steel,  five-eighths  of  an 
inch ;  length  of  steel,  sizes  5  to  6^,  3i  inches ;  7  to  8 J,  3^  inches ;  9  to 
lOJ,  3f  inches;  11  to  12,  4  inches.  The  leatherboard  must  extend 
to  the  back  of  the  heel  in  the  shoe  to  meet  the  edge  of  the  vamp 
that  is  turned  over  in  lasting  and  fill  the  cavity  in  the  center  of  the 
heel.    Leatherboard  should  be  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 


Chapter  VIII. 
PREPARATION  OF  BOTTOM  STOCK. 


Everything  that  can  be  done  to  assist  the  subsequent  operations 
should  be  attended  to  in  the  sole-leather  room.  In  order  to  accom- 
plish this  the  sole-leather  inspector  should  keep  in  touch  with  the 
making-room  inspector,  through  the  inspector  in  charge,  relative  to 
the  manner  in  which  the  prepared  units  of  bottoming  leather  meet 
their  respective  requirements.  One  of  the  most  important  matters  to 
consider  is  the  amount  of  skiving  or  fleshing.  The  substance  of  sole 
leather  varies  so  sharply  that  unless  it  is  first  made  level  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  obtain  satisfactory  results  in  the  attaching  and  finishing. 
For  this  reason,  as  well  as  for  the  purpose  of  removing  any  surplus 
flesh,  each  insole,  middle  sole,  and  outsole  should  be  uniform  in  weight 
from  heel  to  toe.  This  work  must  he  done  hefore  soles  are  submitted 
for  inspection^  as  a  sole  must  measure  up  to  the  required  iron  after 
skiving. 

INSOLE. 

After  the  insole  has  been  inspected  and  stamped  it  is  rounded  to 
conform  to  the  shape  of  the  pattern  furnished  for  the  particular 
size  of  shoe  for  which  it  is  to  be  used.  In  rounding  care  should  be 
taken  that  the  sole  completely  fills  the  pattern  and  that  it  is  so 
clamped  in  the  machine  that  there  will  be  no  possibility  of  it  being 
dragged  to  one  side  by  the  action  of  the  rounding  knife.  Either  oi 
these  faults  will  result  in  an  irregularly  shaped  insole  that  will  not 
fit  the  bottom  of  the  last. 

The  insole  is  next  channeled.  The  most  approved  method  of  per- 
forming this  operation  is  by  the  Johnson  or  Economy  system,  by 
which  two  channels  are  cut,  one  from  the  outside  and  one  from  the 
inside.  Having  in  mind  the  extension  required  by  specifications  for 
the  finished  edge,  the  best  results  are  obtained  by  using  the  following 
measurements :  Width  of  the  outside  channel  2^/16  inch  on  the  out- 
side ball,  3/16  on  the  toe,  3/16  on  the  inside  ball,  and  4J/16  to  5/16 
on  the  butt.  These  dimensions  may  be  varied  slightly  according  to 
the  thickness  of  the  upper.  The  distance  between  the  base  of  the 
outside  lip  and  that  of  the  inside  should  be  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 
The  two  lips  are  then  turned  up  and  fastened  to  form  a  rib  to  which 
the  welt  and  upper  are  afterwards  attached,  either  by  stitching  or  by 
cementing  them  together.  If  a  good  grade  of  cement  is  used  the 
latter  method  is  preferred.  When  the  cementing  method  is  used, 
however,  careless  operators  sometimes  fail  to  roll  the  outside  lip 
back  to  its  full  extent  on  the  toe.  This  is  a  serious  defect  and  is  suffi- 
cient cause  for  rejection. 

51 


52  AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 

The  insole  is  next  feather  edged ;  that  is,  the  edge  is  slightly  beveled 
on  the  grain  side.  The  object  of  this  is  to  eliminate  the  possibility 
of  any  discomfort  caused  by  the  rough  edge  coming  in  contact  with 
the  foot.  It  is  sometimes  found  that  the  strength  of  the  lip  is 
weakened  by  the  use  of  a  feed  wheel  having  teeth  too  large  or  too 
sharp,  a  condition  to  be  guarded  against  by  the  inspector. 

The  insole  is  next  reinforced  by  the  addition  on  the  flesh  side  of  a 
strip  of  9-ounce  canvas,  coated  on  the  underside  with  cement.  The 
canvas  should  extend  from  top  of  lip  on  one  side  across  insole  to  top 
of  lip  on  opposite  side.  Serious  difficulty  has  been  experienced  in  the 
past  with  the  use  of  insoles  gemmed  with  canvas  extending  to  edge 
of  insole,  causing  an  air  space  or  bubble  between  the  channel  and  the 
canvas  which  is  liable  to  tear  the  canvas  when  the  welt  is  sewed  on. 
Great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  canvas  is  tightly  formed  in  at  the 
base  of  the  inside  channel,  otherwise  it  will  tear  at  the  inseaming 
operation,  thus  becoming  useless  for  the  purpose  intended. 

WELTING. 

Shoe  manufacturers  generally  prefer  to  purchase  welting  that  has 
been  grooved  and  beveled,  ready  for  attaching  without  further 
fitting  at  the  factory.  Of  late,  however,  the  practice  of  buying 
plain  welting  and  grooving  and  beveling  it  at  their  own  plants  to 
better  adapt  it  to  their  individual  use  has  become  more  common. 
This  grooving  and  beveling  has  a  very  important  bearing  on  the 
success  of  the  inseaming  operation,  as  the  durability  of  the  welt 
may  be  affected  by  the  depth  of  the  grooving.  Inquiries  made  of 
welters,  foremen,  and  welt  manufacturers  result  in  the  conclusion 
that  the  proper  depth  of  the  groove  is  one-third  of  the  thickness  of 
the  welt.  A  hard,  firm  welt  may  be  more  easily  worked  with  a 
slightly  deeper  groove.  It  has  been  demonstrated  that  the  best 
results  are  obtained  with  Army  grade  welting  that  has  a  groove 
three-sixty- fourths  of  an  inch  deep.  The  correct  bevel  should  start 
from  a  point  directly  opposite  the  inside  wall  of  the  groove.  The 
inspector  should  give  careful  attention  to  this  particular  detail  ir- 
respective of  whether  the  contractor  buys  welting  grooved  and 
beveled  or  has  these  operations  performed  in  his  own  factory. 

OUTSOLES  AND  MIDDLE  SOLES. 

The  outsole  should  be  properly  fleshed  and  made  level.  As  these 
soles  are  to  later  undergo  a  fitting  operation  known  as  rough  round- 
ing it  is  not  customary  to  round  them  by  pattern  in  the  sole-leather 
room,  but  the  sole-leather  inspector  should  see  that  in  casing  up 
outer  and  middle  soles  they  are  large  enough  to  furnish  sufficient 
material  to  permit  the  proper  performance  of  the  subsequent  opera- 
tion. The  inspector  in  charge  should  keep  the  sole-leather  inspector 
informed  regarding  such  matters. 

The  specifications  ordinarily  permit  the  use  of  middle  soles  of  less 
than  7  iron  if  for  each  one-half  iron  decrease  there  shall  be  an 
increase  of  1  iron  in  the  outsole,  but  no  middle  sole  shall  be  accepted 
under  6  iron  in  weight.  Where  the  manufacturer  takes  advantage 
of  this  clause  the  inspector  should  see  that  in  casing  up  the  correct 


ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  53 

combination  of  soles  is  made,  and  that  a  case  of  light  middle  soles  is 
not  combined  with  a  case  of  outsoles,  the  iron  of  which  has  not  been 
correspondingly  increased. 

For  the  purpose  of  eliminating  the  loud  and  disagreeable  squeak 
which  so  often  developes  in  a  shoe  of  this  type,  the  specifications 
should  require  the  middle  soles  and  outsoles  to  be  thoroughly 
cemented  together.  To  make  this  method  more  effective,  the  grain 
of  the  middle  sole  must  be  roughed.  A  coat  of  cement  must  be 
applied  to  the  roughened  grain  side  of  the  middle  sole  and  another 
to  the  flesh  side  of  the  outsole  before  putting  them  together.  This 
serves,  also,  to  prevent  the  two  soles  from  slipping  out  of  place  at 
the  rounding  and  stitching  operation. 

Soles  are  next  placed  in  the  molder  and  given  sufficient  pressure  to 
form  them  to  the  shape  of  the  bottom  of  the  last.  This  process 
increases  the  effectiveness  of  Goodyear  stitching.  It  helps  to  make 
a  tighter  inseam,  as  much  of  the  strain  required  to  bring  the  heavy 
double  sole  and  welt  together  is  thereby  eliminated.  During  all  the 
operations  the  soles  should  be  sufficiently  mulled  and  in  proper 
temper,  and  should  leave  the  sole-leather  room  in  the  correct  state 
of  mellowness  for  the  processes  which  follow. 

HEEL  BUILDING. 

In  order  to  obtain  the  most  uniform  results  in  the  finished  heel  the 
lifts  should  be  graded  for  weight.  When  this  is  not  done  the  height 
of  the  heel  will  vary. 

After  the  heel  has  been  built  it  is  placed  in  a  machine  which  sub- 
jects it  to  a  tremendous  pressure.  As  the  pressure  adjustment  is- 
constant  at  the  point  required  to  produce  a  given  height  heel,  it 
follows  that  if  the  heel  is  built  too  high  this  pressure  will  be  addi- 
tionally increased.  For  the  reason  explained  under  "  Eolling  of 
leather,"  this  pressure  can  not  but  result  in  injury  to  the  fibers  thus 
compressed.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  heel  is  built  too  low,  sufficient 
pressure  will  not  be  exerted  to  properly  solidify  the  heel. 

The  lifts  must  be  in  proper  temper  and  be  well  pasted  on  both 
sides  before  being  compressed.  The  proper  degree  of  concavity 
should  be  given  the  bottom  lift.  Heels  are  to  be  made  with  a  straight 
breast  line.  In  some  factories  the  breasting  is  done  in  the  sole- 
leather  room.  There  is  an  advantage  in  this  method  as  the  machine 
on  which  this  work  is  done  can  be  adjusted  to  cut  an  exceedingly 
fine  chip,  thus  leaving  the  fullest  possible  length  of  the  heel.  It 
also  eliminates  the  danger  of  cutting  the  sole  at  the  shank  through 
inaccurate  adjustment  or  improper  grinding  of  the  knife,  as  often 
happens  when  the  heel  is  breasted  after  being  attached  to  the  shoe. 


Chapter  IX. 
FITTING. 

SKIVING. 

For  appearance,  comfort,  and  strength  the  edges  of  the  different 
sections  of  the  uppers  are  generally  reduced  in  thickness  before 
being  stitched  together,  the  various  seams  calling  for  special  treat- 
ment in  the  width  and  depth  of  the  scarf.  On  seams  like  the  back, 
which  after  skiving  are  stitched  together,  then  opened  out  flat,  the 
scarf  need  not  be  wide  or  deep,  but  it  should  be  sufficient  to  make 
it  easy  to  lay  the  seams  down  smoothly  without  straining  the  stitch. 
The  greatest  thickness  of  material  should  be  left  just  where  the 
stitches  are  laid  and  yet  have  a  seam  that  will  lay  down  flat  when 
opened  out.  The  extreme  edge  should  be  left  with  the  necessary 
thickness  to  firmly  hold  the  stitches,  otherwise  the  operator  must 
run  further  in  from  the  edge.  This  lengthening  of  the  stitch  in- 
creases the  difficulty  of  making  the  seam  lay  flat.  Lapped  seams, 
such  as  are  provided  for  on  the  garrison  shoe,  are  stronger  than 
the  closed  seam.  They  are  used  for  attaching  tips,  vamps,  counter 
pockets,  and  tongues.  The  edge  of  the  quarter  which  is  to  be  upper- 
most need  not  be  skived;  the  underneath  edge,  however,  the  part 
which  overlaps,  should  be  skived  as  deeply  as  is  consistent  with 
safety  and  strength.  The  primary  object  of  the  skiving  in  this 
case  is  comfort,  and  the  width  of  the  scarf  should  depend  on  the 
substance  and  the  laps  allowed.  The  bottom  of  the  quarter  and 
counter  pocket  should  be  skived  sufficiently  to  reduce  to  a  minimum 
the  difficulty  of  wiping  in  the  heel  seat  and  to  secure  the  flat  effect 
so  much  desired  at  this  point.  For  the  sake  of  appearance,  edges 
left  raw,  such  as  the  straight  edge  of  the  tip,  the  front  of  the 
quarter,  and  the  edges  of  the  counter  pocket,  should  also  be  skived. 
The  skiving  knife  in  this  case  should  be  set  a  trifle  heavier  than  the 
minimum  weight  called  for  in  the  specifications  for  the  particular 
piece  being  skived.  This  avoids  the  clumsiness  of  an  unskived 
edge  and  makes  a  more  uniform  tension  possible.  To  facilitate 
the  folding  in  of  the  surplus  material  at  the  toe,  the  vamp  and  tip 
should  be  skived  at  this  point.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  scarf 
is  only  of  such  width  that  when  the  shoe  is  welted  the  needle  will 
pass  through  the  unskived  part.  Specifications  for  skiving  the 
edges  of  the  different  parts  follow.  This  will  vary  slightly  accord- 
ing to  the  substance  of  the  material  to  be  skived. 

Specifications  412-2-9  state  in  regard  to  upper  leather  skiving : 

Quarters  are  to  be  skived  at  the  back  on  the  flesh  side  with  a  scarf  three- 
sixteenths  inch  wide  to  even  the  uppers  to  a  uniform  thickness;  the  quarter 
where  skived  is  to  be  not  less  than  1.5  millimeters  in  thickness.  Quarters  are 
to  be  skived  on  the  bottom  where  the  heel  seat  is  lasted  in  on  the  flesh  side 

54 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  55 

with  a  scarf  not  over  five-eighths  inch  wide,  the  skived  part  of  the  quarter  to 
be  not  less  than  1.5  millimeters  in  thickness  when  skived.  Vamps  are  to  be 
skived  on  the  flesh  side  at  the  point  where  the  vamp  joins  the  quarter  in  the 
shank  with  a  scarf  three-sixteenths  inch  wide,  this  part  to  be  not  less  than 
1.5  millimeters  in  thickness  when  skived.  Vamps  are  to  be  skived  at  the 
throat  on  the  flesh  side  with  a  scarf  one-fourth  inch  wide,  the  edge  of  the 
throat  of  the  vamp  not  to  be  over  1  millimeter  in  thickness.  Vamps  are  to  be 
skived  at  the  toe  with  a  scarf  five-sixteenths  inch  wide  to  allow  for  proper 
lasting  of  toe.  Counterpockets  are  to  be  slightly  skived  on  the  flesh  side  with 
a  scarf  three-sixteenths  inch  in  width  and  to  measure  on  the  skived  part  not 
less  than  1.5  millimeters.  Tops  of  quarters  are  to  be  slightly  skived  on  the 
flesh  side.  Tongues  may  be  slightly  skived  at  the  bottom  where  the  tongue 
joins  the  vamp  at  the  throat  on  the  grain  side  with  a  scarf  not  to  exceed  one- 
fourth  inch  in  width,  and  the  tongue  to  measure  not  less  than  1  millimeter  in 
thickness  where  skived. 

ASSEMBLING. 

The  fitting-room  inspector  will  see  that  the  various  parts  as  ac- 
cepted by  the  upper-leather  inspector  are  correctly  assembled.  Care- 
less handling  at  this  point  may  cause  an  interchange  of  parts,  which 
might  result  seriously  if  not  discovered  before  the  fitting  began. 
Notwithstanding  that  all  parts  of  the  upper  have  previously  been 
inspected  and  accepted,  the  fitting-room  inspector  is  to  consider  it 
a  part  of  his  duties  to  note  the  weight  and  quality  of  the  parts  in 
so  far  as  it  is  possible  while  checking  up  the  workmanship.  If 
pieces  are  found  of  inferior  quality,  it  will  not  be  too  late  to  prevent 
their  incorporation  into  the  shoe.  Both  upper  and  under  threads  in 
use  on  the  different  machines  must  be  inspected  at  frequent  intervals 
during  the  day  and  their  finish,  size,  and  color  carefully  observed. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  throat  and  the  wing  of  the  vamp  are 
to  be  skived  to  different  degrees  of  thickness,  thus  making  two 
operations  necessary.  It  has  been  found  in  some  instances  that  in 
order  to  eliminate  one  operation  some  foremen  have  altered  these 
weights  without  authorization.  Such  practices  must  be  guarded 
against.  Gussets  should  be  split  to  a  uniform  weight,  preferably 
on  a  belt  knife.  Side  facings  should  be  split  to  a  weight  corre- 
sponding to  the  gusset. 

CRIMPING. 

Vamps  should  be  crimped  to  a  proper  break  to  conform  easily 
to  the  shape  of  the  last  on  a  machine  of  the  Lockett  type  or  equal, 
avoiding  excessive  side  pressure  and  heat.  Vamps  should  be  allowed 
to  remain  set  between  the  jaws  a  sufficient  period  to  insure  effective 
crimping.  Not  more  than  one  pair  of  vamps  should  be  crimped 
at  once,  as  the  outside  vamps  will  stretch  and  the  location  marks 
become  misplaced.  During  this  operation  it  often  happens  that  the 
plates  become  overheated,  due  to  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the 
operator ;  consequently  it  is  recommended  that  a  discarded  vamp  be 
placed  upon  the  outside  of  the  vamps  which  are  to  be  crimped, 
thus  preventing  any  excessive  heat  that  may  be  in  the  plates  from 
burning  the  grain,  making  it  brittle  and  tender. 

TYPE  OF  STITCH. 

There  are  different  types  of  stitches  used  in  the  upper  fitting  of 
boots  and  shoes,  namely,  the  chain  stitch,  the  lock  stitch,  and  the 
union  special  double  lock  stitch.     The  specifications  usually  state 


66  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

that  the  stitching  on  all  parts  of  the  upper,  except  that  closing  the 
back  seam  and  the  seam  made  in  stitching  the  eyelet  facing  to  the 
quarter,  shall  be  done  with  a  lock  stitch.  This  makes  no  mention  of 
the  barring  row,  which  experience  has  fully  demonstrated  is  most 
satisfactorily  done  with  a  Puritan  chain  stitch.  While  there  can 
be  no  question  as  to  the  all-round  superiority  of  the  single  lock 
stitch  for  use  on  unlined  uppers,  such  as  the  shoes  made  •  under 
Specifications  412-2-9,  yet  there  were  many  contractors  whose  fac- 
tories were  equipped  with  the  union  special  double  lockstitch 
machine  for  tip  stitching  who  claimed  that  a  seam  stitched  with 
it  had  greater  tensile  strength  than  any  other,  and  also  possessed 
greater  elasticity.  This  latter  feature  is  desirable  in  tip  stitching, 
as  the  strain  of  the  pulling-over  machine  at  this  point  stretches  this 
seam  to  some  extent,  and  it  being  universally  conceded  that  the 
single  lock  stitch  is  the  least  elastic  of  all  seams  it  follows  that 
any  undue  longitudinal  strain  will  cause  the  stitches  to  break. 

For  the  purpose  of  ascertaii*ing  the  relative  tensile  strength  of 
seams  made  with  the  different  types  of  stitches,  tests  were  made  for 
the  Union  Special  Machine  Co.  by  J.  E.  Howard,  Government  ex- 
pert, August  3,  1894.  Assuming  the  correctness  of  these  tests,  the 
union  special  lock  stitch  is  stronger  than  either  the  chain  stitch  or  the 
single  lock  stitch,  the  latter  being  the  weakest  of  the  three. 

Furthermore,  a  claim  was  made  that  as  the  union  special  un- 
doubtedly forms  a  lock  stitch  the  wording  of  the  specifications  could 
not  be  interpreted  to  mean  that  its  use  was  prohibited.  The  objec- 
tionable feature  which  decided  against  the  use  of  this  type  of  stitch 
was  that  it  formed  a  ridge  of  thread  on  the  underneath  surface  which 
might  easily  cause  discomfort,  if  not  serious  injury,  to  the  wearer. 
The  cause  of  this  ridge  may  be  traced  to  the  fact  that  the  entire 
double  lock  of  the  stitch  remains  on  the  under  surface  instead  of 
being  drawn  into  the  material.  In  addition  to  this,  in  practice  the 
single  lock  stitch  is  found  to  be  sufficiently  strong. 

To  assist  the  inspector  to  more  intelligently  pass  on  the  quality  of 
the  workmanship  and  to  make  criticisms  of  a  helpful  nature,  it  is  of 
value  that  he  shall  have  some  knowledge  of  the  mechanical  processes 
utilized  in  the  various  stitching  machines.  Reference  has  been  made 
to  the  eye  and  the  point  of  the  needle.  In  addition  there  are  two 
grooves  in  each  needle,  one  long  and  the  other  short.  The  object  of 
these  is  to  allow  the  thread  to  pass  through  the  material  with  as 
little  friction  as  possible.  Consequently  the  long  groove  should  ex- 
tend up  the  needle  as  far  as  will  be  necessary  for  it  to  enter  the  work 
on  its  downward  motion.  On  the  short  groove,  which  is  always 
the  one  next  the  shuttle,  this  is  not  the  case,  as  while  the  friction  is 
here  reduced  to  a  minimum,  there  must  be  enough  so  that  when  the 
needle  begins  to  rise  the  thread  will  be  held  by  friction  while  the 
needle  ascends  without  it.  During  this  motion  the  thread  passes 
through  the  eye  from  the  long  groove  side,  leaving  a  loop  through 
which  the  shuttle  thread  is  passed  and  thus  forming  the  stitch.  In  a 
lock  stitch  it  is  necessary  that  the  top  and  bottom  threads  cross  to 
form  the  lock.  Different  methods  are  used  to  accomplish  this.  The 
under  thread  may  be  wound  on  a  spool  and  inclosed  in  a  shuttle 
which  is  shot  through  the  loop  formed  when  the  needle  rises.  This 
type  of  shuttle  has  a  pointed  end  and  has  a  reciprocating  motion. 


AKMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  57 

Sometimes  the  bobbin  remains  stationary  and  is  inclosed  in  a  case 
which  has  a  rotary  motion.  Such  cases  have  a  hook  which  enters 
the  loop  thrown  by  the  needle,  gives  it  a  half  twist  and  passes  it 
over  the  bobbin,  thus  forming  the  stitch.  This  type  of  bobbin  is  the 
one  most  commonly  used  for  fitting  uppers.  The  advantage  of  the 
rotary  over  the  reciprocating  shuttle  is  that  the  speed  is  increased 
since  the  latter  only  forms  a  lock  on  its  forward  motion  and  must 
return  to  its  original  position  before  commencing  another  stitch. 

The  zigzag  stitch  used  on  the  back  seam  is  made  by  the  needle 
bar  having  a  swaying  motion  in  a  line  crosswise  to  the  direction  of 
the  feed.  A^  stitch  is  placed  when  the  needle  is  at  the  extreme  of 
its  motion  in  one  direction,  the  next  stitch  being  made  when  it 
reaches  the  end  of  its  journey  in  the  other  direction.  The  work  is 
fed  forward  between  the  stitches.  This  zigzag  motion  can  be  used 
or  instantly  changed  to  the  straightaway  stitch,  simultaneously  dou- 
bling the  number  of  stitches  at  the  wish  of  the  operator. 

To  secure  uniformity  of  the  stitch,  different  mechanical  devices 
are  provided  which  move  the  work  forward  as  each  stitch  is  formed. 
One  of  these  is  the  drop  feed.  With  this  type  the  feed  rises,  grips 
the  work,  moves  it  forward,  drops  down  and  returns  to  its  original 
position.  The  type  of  feed  most  commonly  used  on  upper  closing 
machines  is  the  feed  wheel,  having  on  its  edge  a  series  of  teeth  which 
grip  that  portion  of  the  work  which  is  directly  under  the  needle  and 
move  it  along  as  it  revolves.  After  the  devices  which  regulate  the 
length  of  the  stitch  are  adjusted  to  provide  a  stitch  the  desired  length, 
it  is  important  that  the  operator  permit  the  work  to  pass  under  the 
needle  naturally,  that  is,  he  should  neither  push  it  along  nor  retard  it. 

To  vary  the  length  of  the  stitch  the  motion  of  the  wheel  is  either 
increased  or  decreased.  In  connection  with  this  a  means  is  pro- 
vided for  pressing  the  work  against  the  feeding  device.  It  also 
serves  to  prevent  the  work  from  being  pulled  out  of  position  when 
the  needle  is  being  withdrawn  from  it.  In  addition  to  this  it  presses 
the  parts  together  and  makes  it  possible  to  obtain  a  tight  seam  with- 
out undue  strain  on  the  thread. 

There  are  two  types  of  pressure  devices  used — the  foot  pressure 
and  the  wheel  pressure.  With  the  foot  the  pressure  should  not  be 
more  than  necessary,  as  the  friction  against  its  flat  base  tends  to 
stretch  the  material.  With  the  use  of  the  wheel  pressure  this  fric- 
tion is  reduced  to  a  minimum,  as  it  revolves  when  the  work  moves 
forward. 

Between  the  top  spool  and  the  eye  of  the  needle  the  thread  con- 
trolling devices  are  placed.  The  principal  ones  are  the  tension  and 
the  take-up.  It  is  believed  that  all  are  familiar  with  the  object  and 
the  method  of  controlling  the  tension  device.  The  take-up  device 
consists  of  a  lever  through  which  the  thread  passes.  This  lever  drops 
when  the  needle  descends  and  rises  soon  after  the  needle.  After  the 
under  thread  has  passed  through  the  loop  made  by  the  needle  the 
slack  thread  is  taken  up  and  strained  tight  by  the  upward  motion 
of  the  lever.  The  length  of  the  take-up  motion  should  be  governed 
by  the  amount  of  loop  required  on  the  different  machines.  The  lever 
always  takes  up  the  same  amount  of  slack,  but  since  the  thickness 
of  the  material  varies,  to  insure  the  same  tension  for  each  stitch  a 
take-up  spring  is  provided  which  should  be  suitably  adjusted  to  bal- 
ance with  the  tension. 


58  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

The  matter  of  speed  is  important.  The  operator  in  endeavoring 
to  accomplish  a  greater  amount  of  work  may  increase  the  feed  mo- 
tion. In  addition  to  lengthening  the  stitch  this  makes  it  more  diffi- 
cult to  guide  the  work.  Also  when  the  tension  is  set  to  properly 
function  at  a  given  speed  any  excessive  speed  will  result  in  the 
bobbin  thread  being  pulled  to  the  surface.  When  the  inspector  finds 
that  unsatisfactory  tension  is  not  immediately  corrected  by  the  use 
of  the  spring  adjustment  provided  for  this  purpose,  he  should  at 
once  insist  that  the  services  of  an  expert  machinist  be  secured. 

CLOSING  THE  BACK  SEAM. 

• 

The  zigzag  is  the  stitch  most  commonly  used  for  butted  seams  and 
it  is  the  one  used  for  closing  the  back  seam  of  the  quarters.  It  has 
been  mentioned  that  this  stitch  on  some  machines  may  be  instantly 
changed  to  a  straightaway  by  the  operator.  Having  in  mind  the 
fact  that  when  inserting  the  foot  into  the  shoe  without  the  use  of  a 
pull  strap  the  first  and  most  severe  strain  comes  on  the  top  of  the 
back  seam,  the  opinion  is  advanced  that  in  closing  this  seam  1  inch 
of  straightaway  stitching  at  the  top  gives  added  strength.  Manu- 
facturers were  averse  to  using  this  method  on  Army  shoes,  claiming 
a  superiority  for  the  Singer  zigzag  stitch.  However,  this  opinion 
may  have  been  somewhat  influenced  by  the  fact  that  with  the  latter 
seam  the  rubbing  down  operation  is  eliminated. 

Before  stitching  the  counter  pocket  it  should  be  carefully  centered 
on  the  back  seam,  the  top  of  the  backstay  being  set  flush  with  the 
top  of  the  quarter.  When  this  part  is  attached  with  three  rows  of 
stitching,  two  operations  are  required,  using  a  double-needled  ma- 
chine for  one  and  a  single-needled  for  the  other.  Best  results  are 
obtained  by  using  a  single  needle  first,  as  it  facilitates  the  springing 
on  of  the  counter  pocket.  The  other  two  rows  may  then  be  placed 
with  the  double-needled  machine.  After  the  counter  pocket  is  fitted 
it  should  be  crimped,  it  having  been  demonstrated  that  uppers  thus 
crimped  conform  more  readily  to  the  shape  of  the  last  and  the  foot 
at  the  heel  as  is  evident  in  the  lasting  operation. 

TIP   STITCHING. 

Care  must  be  taken  that  the  tips  are  attached  to  the  vamp  in  a 

manner  which  will  enable  the  1  aster  to  pull  the  tips  straight  without 

twisting  the  ears  of  the  blucher  points.     They  should  be  so  placed 

that  on  the  finished  upper  the  distance  between  the  edge  of  the  tip 

and  the  blucher  point  will  be  equal.    They  are  more  accurately  placed 

when  stitched  on  a  flat-bed  machine.     Tips  are  perforated  with  a 

row  of  holes  three  thirty-seconds  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  stitched 

with  four  rows  of  linen  thread,  two  on  each  side  of  the  perforation, 

using  a  40/3  cord  polished  upper  and  50/3  cord  unpolished  linen 

under  thread,  and  not  less  than  10  nor  more  than  12  stitches  to  the 

inch. 

STITCHING  EYELET  FACING  TO  TONGUE. 

To  avoid  the  thick  bunch  formed  by  the  lap  seam  used  in  patterns 
of  earlier  designs  the  zigzaz  stitch  is  used  here  and  a  butted  seam  is 
formed.  To  prevent  this  stitch  running,  it  is  required  that  it  be 
carried  onto  the  tongue  for  a  short  distance,  say  two  or  four  stitches 
beyond  the  eyelet  facing. 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  59 

TONGUE  STITCHING. 

Tongues  are  stitched  to  the  vamp  with  two  rows  of  stitching, 
one  row  to  be  stitched  from  the  outside  on  the  extreme  edge  of  the 
tongue,  the  work  then  to  be  turned  over  and  the  other  row  to  be 
stitched  at  the  extreme  edge  of  the  vamp,  the  object  of  this  being 
to  prevent  the  lap  at  the  throat  of  the  vamp  from  rolling  back  when 
the  foot  is  inserted.  As  the  shuttle  thread  on  the  latter  row  is  the  one 
which  shows  on  the  surface,  it  is  necessary  that  it  should  be  fitted 
with  the  same  thread  as  used  in  the  top  spool.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  the  part  of  the  tongue  where  the  slot  commences  is  accurately 
laid  on  the  location  point,  otherwise  it  will  affect  the  fit  when  at- 
tached to  the  quarter. 

EYELET  ROW  STITCHING. 

The  tongue  is  split  at  the  side  so  that  it  may  be  turned  up  and 
attached  to  the  quarter  to  form  a  part  of  the  facing,  having  a  tend- 
ency to  make  this  part  more  water-tight.  The  operator  carefully 
places  the  upturned  side  of  the  tongue  and  the  tab  together,  ar- 
ranges the  fold,  and  places  the  tab  on  the  location  points  on  the 
vamp.  It  is  then  ready  to  stitch.  Unless  the  parts  are  carefully 
held  in  their  proper  position,  the  result  will  be  a  baggy  or  other- 
wise ill-fitting  tongue.  Attached  to  this  machine  is  a  knife  which, 
working  in  conjunction  with  the 'needle,  removes  the  surplus  mate- 
rial on  the  outside  of  the  stitch. 

VAMPING. 

Vamping  is  done  with  four  rows  of  stitching,  using  10  to   12 

stitches  to  the  inch.     Owing  to  the  width  of  lap  allowed  by  the 

pattern  and  the  necessity  of  the  fourth  row  being  so  placed  that  it 

passes  close  to  the  edge  of  the  lap  of  the  vamp,  preventing  any 

possibility  of  its  curling  back,  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  single-needled 

machine  here  if  uniform  appearance  of  the  rows  is  to  be  maintained. 

It  is  important  that  the  inspector  keep  in  close  touch  with  this 

operation.    He  should  examine  the  location  marks  on  the  vamp  and 

being  assured  that  they  are  properly  placed  and  that  the  brads  in 

the  die  have  not  been  sprung:,  he  shall  then  see  that  the  quarter  is 

placed  accurately  on  these  marks.    The  quarter  should  not  be  merely 

laid  on  the  vamp  when  stitching  but  should  be  sprung  on  so  as  to 

correctly  form  the  curve  made  by  the  two  extreme  points  and  the 

center  point. 

BARRING. 

Barring  is  most  satisfactorily  done  with  the  Puritan  wax-thread 
machine.  This  machine  is  equipped  with  an  attachment  which  auto- 
matically stops  after  it  sets  five  stitches.  When  the  thread  is  cut 
after  the  stitches  are  laid,  a  sufficient  length  of  thread  should  be  left 
to  prevent  the  stitch  from  running.  Plenty  of  wax  should  be  used. 
The  ridge  formed  by  the  lock  of  the  chain  stitch  underneath  should  be 
gently  pounded  by  a  wooden  mallet  on  a  wooden  surface.  Not  only 
does  this  pounding  serve  to  reduce  the  ridge  but  it  also  sets  the  lock 
tighter.  To  be  effective,  this  should  be  done  immediately  after  the 
barring  and  when  the  wax  on  the  thread  is  in  a  plastic  state. 


00  ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

MARKING. 

Before  leaving  the  fitting  room,  and  at  a  period  most  convenient, 
the  quarter  should  be  distinctly  stamped  on  the  flesh  side  with  the 
name  of  the  contractor,  number  of  the  specifications,  the  number  of 
the  contract,  the  name  of  the  zone  in  v^hich  the  shoes  are  manu- 
factured, and  the  size  and  width  of  the  shoe.  In  addition  to  this, 
it  should  have  on  the  fiesh  side  a  size  and  width  mark,  made  with  a 
steel  cutting  stamp  which  must  cut  into  the  surface  of  the  leather. 
It  is  necessary  that  this  mark  shall  be  distinct,  as  when  shoes  are 
reclaimed  it  may  often  be  the  only  possible  means  of  identifying  the 
size  and  width. 

*  SUMMARY. 

Garrison  shoe  Specifications  412-2-9  clearly  set  forth  the  kind  of 
thread  and  the  number  of  stitches  required  for  each  operation.  It 
becomes  the  duty  of  the  inspector  to  carefully  watch  each  operation  in 
the  fitting  room  and  see  that  the  various  pieces  are  fitted  according  to 
the  location  marked  on  each ;  that  the  proper  number  of  stitches  and 
the  proper  threads  are  used;  and,  most  important,  that  at  all  times 
and  on  all  operations  the  proper  tension  is  maintained  and  that  the 
thread  does  not  ride  on  the  surface  of  the  leather.  If  it  is  found 
that  in  the  lasting  room  difficulty  is  had  in  properly  lasting  uppers 
due  to  ill  fitting,  an  examinatioui  of  the  location  marks  should  be 
made,  to  see  if  the  crimping  has  stretched  them.  If  the  fault  is  not 
here,  examination  of  the  dies  should  be  made  to  see  if  the  brads 
have  become  sprung.  Throughout  all  operations  only  the  smallest 
possible  needle  that  will  carry  the  thread  should  be  used.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  a  number  6  Singer  gives  the  best  result  on  the  size  of 
thread  used  on  this  shoe.  Quarters  should  be  laced  up  at  least  four 
eyelets  with  the  space  not  to  exceed  five-eighths  of  an  inch  before 
going  to  the  lasting  room.  Care  should  be  used  in  eyeleting  to  see 
that  the  eyelets  are  properly  spaced,  since  there  is  danger  when  the 
quarters  are  eyeleted  up  one  side  and  down  the  other,  that  the  holes 
may  not  come  opposite  each  other.  It  is  important  that  the  proper 
clinch  of  the  barrel  is  obtained.  If  the  barrel  of  the  eyelet  is  too 
long,  rough  edges  are  left  at  the  clinch ;  if  too  short,  the  eyelet  is  apt 
to  pull  out. 


Chapter  X. 
LASTING. 

PRINCIPLES  OF  LASTING. 

The  high  state  of  perfection  which  lasting  machines  have  reached 
has  brought  about  their  general  use  in  the  shoe  factories  of  to-day, 
and  even  in  the  shoe  centers  where  the  higher  grades  of  shoes  are 
made  the  hand  laster  is  fast  disappearing.  Since  the  end  striven  for 
in  the  lasting  machine  is  to  approximate  as  closely  as  possible  the 
methods  and  results  of  hand-lasting,  it  follows  that  the  principles  of 
lasting,  which  never  change,  might  be  more  readily  understood  from 
an  explanation  of  the  methods  of  the  old-time  hand  laster. 

First  the  draft  strains  should  mold  the  upper  to  the  contour  of 
the  last;  they  should  be  taken  in  the  order  which  will  make  them 
the  most  effective;  they  should  be  taken  at  the  proper  time  and  in 
the  place  that  will  be  least  adversely  affected  by  after  strains.  The 
strength  of  each  pull  must  be  in  the  right  proportion  and  relation 
to  the  after  strains.  The  upper  must  be  molded  over  the  last  in  such 
a  way  that  it  fits  closely  into  the  hollows  and  retains  the  curves  and 
lines  of  the  last  when  the  latter  is  withdrawn.  The  difficulty  in  this 
is  due  partly  to  the  elasticity  of  the  leather.  The  contraction  which 
takes  place  when  the  last  is  withdrawn  may  result  in  the  shoe  losing 
its  shape,  therefore  if  the  upper  is  to  retain  its  shape  it  must  be 
drawn  over  the  last  according  to  certain  scientific  principles. 

ASSEMBLING. 

Before  commencing  the  process  of  lasting  the  shoe  is  assembled. 
At  this  point  the  various  parts  are  brought  together  and  embodied 
in  the  shoe.  The  inspector  must  see  that  the  different  units  cor- 
respond in  size  and  width  and  that  the  last  and  upper  are  properly 
marked  according  to  the  tag.  Having  satisfied  himself  regarding 
these  details,  he  should  insist  that  the  insole  be  tacked  on  flush  with 
the  outside  of  the  last,  using  for  this  purpose  the  proper  size  tacks. 
The  insole  should  never  hang  over  the  inside  edge,  neither  should  it 
extend  over  the  toe  nor  be  set  back  from  the  toe.  There  is  usuallv 
one-twelfth  shrinkage  allowance  at  the  heel  to  permit  the  trimming 
of  the  insole  after  it  is  tacked  on  the  last.  This  trimming  must  be 
done  smoothly  and  evenly,  leaving  the  seat  the  shape  of  the  bed 
without  any  angles  or  corners. 

Counters  should  be  pasted  on  both  sides.  The  approved  method 
is  to  insert  the  individual  counter  into  the  receptacle  containing  the 
paste  rather  than  to  insert  the  paste  into  the  counter  pocket  by  means 
of  a  brush.    This  prevents  the  counter  pocket  from  working  down 

61 


62  AEMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

over  the  heel  seat  and  also  prevents  the  inner  surface  being  pushed 
down  when  the  shoe  is  put  on.  When  the  counter  is  inserted  it 
should  be  carefully  centered.  The  upper  is  then  placed  over  the  last. 
The  back  seam  having  been  centered,  it  is  raised  above  the  seat  suffi- 
ciently to  permit  breaking  over  a  correct  amount — that  is,  four- 
eighths  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch — and  fastened  with  a  tack  in  the 
back. 

Army  shoes  are  designed  to  be  made  with  a  soft  box,  the  reason 
for  this,  no  doubt,  being  to  prevent  any  liability  of  the  hard  box 
injuring  the  toe  of  the  wearer.  In  doing  this  appearance  has  been 
sacrificed  to  a  considerable  extent,  as  when  the  shoe  is  removed  from 
the  last  the  toe  often  falls  in  and  presents  a  crushed  and  wrinkled 
appearance.  In  order  to  eliminate  this  latter  fault,  it  is  advisable 
to  insert  between  the  tip  and  the  vamp  a  generous  coat  of  good 
quality  rubber  cement.  This  serves  to  hold  the  tip  of  the  shoe  up 
when  the  last  is  taken  out  and  leaves  a  soft  box  with  absolutely  no 
danger  of  injuring  the  foot. 

PULLING  OVER. 

After  the  shoe  is  assembled  the  hand  laster  would  turn  the  shoe 
bottom  up,  take  the  toe  of  the  uppers  in  the  pincers  and  strain  it 
over  the  edge  of  the  insole  and  fasten  it  with  a  tack.  This  must  be 
the  first  strain,  because  it  centralizes  the  upper  on  the  last  and  at 
once  enables  the  operator  to  see  if  it  is  correctly  fitted  and  attached. 
No  tacks  are  placed  at  the  side  until  the  upper  has  been  centered. 
When  the  strain  is  taken,  the  upper  stretches  and  will,  at  some 
points,  come  forward  on  the  last,  and  as  this  longitudinal  strain  is 
the  only  one  which  could  mold  the  upper  to  the  back  of  the  last,  it 
would  be  impossible  to  set  up  effective  heel  to  toe  tension  if  any 
cross  strains  had  been  taken  first.  It  must  be  the  first  strain  taken, 
because  there  is  no  other  strain  which  will  make  so  much  of  the  upper 
fit  against  the  side  of  the  last.  Seeing  the  importance  of  this  strain, 
it  is  necessary  that  it  be  of  the  correct  tension. 

It  may  be  stated  as  a  guide  that  as  strong  a  tension  as  possible 
should  be  set  up,  provided  that  the  laster  can  always  bring  the  upper 
down  to  the  most  hollow  part  of  the  last  between  the  toe  and  the 
instep  with  his  fingers.  The  effect  of  bringing  the  upper  down  to 
the  last  at  this  point  is  to  increase  the  heel  to  toe  tension,  therefore 
if  the  latter  is  too  strong  it  will  be  difficult  to  bring  the  upper  down 
to  the  wood.  This  heel  to  toe  tension  may  be  so  great  that  it  is 
impossible  for  the  cross  tension  to  bring  the  upper  down.  In  this 
case  when  the  shoe  is  removed  from  the  last  the  sides  will  fall  in. 
It  is  of  very  great  importance  that  the  strain  be  put  on  gradually. 
It  is  often  through  want  of  care  in  this  detail  that  lasters  crack  an 
excessive  number  of  tips. 

In  lasting  by  hand  the  next  draft  or  pull  would  be  taken  crosswise 
at  the  end  of  the  cap  on  the  inside,  the  third  pull  being  the  opposite 
end  of  the  cap  at  the  outside,  but  with  the  Rex  puUing-over  machine 
the  first  three  strains  are  taken  at  one  operation,  although  in  both 
cases  the  importance  of  the  proper  ratio  must  be  borne  in  mind. 

The  next  pull  should  be  at  the  ends  of  the  counter.  These  being 
flat,  they  should  first  be  strained  toward  the  toe  and  pulled  up  until 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  6& 

the  top  edge  fits  against  the  sides  of  the  last.  The  counter  should 
fit  the  upper  and  be  so  skived  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  pull 
up  an  excessive  amount,  as  any  increased  thickness  to  work  in 
around  the  last  increases  the  difficulties  of  obtaining  a  smooth,  flat 
seat. 

SIDE  LASTING. 

The  side  lasting  may  now  be  commenced,  but  here  great  care 
should  be  used  that  in  taking  the  strains  the  heel-to-toe  tension  is 
not  disturbed.  It  is  advisable  to  last  the  inside  quarter  first,  since, 
on  account  of  the  shape  of  the  last,  it  is  the  least  liable  to  be  over- 
strained. When  the  outside  has  been  lasted  both  quarters  should  be 
the  same  height.  It  equalizes  the  tension  between  the  counter  tack 
and  the  tack  at  the  tip  if  the  first  pull  in  side  lasting  is  made  at  the 
inside  waist  just  back  of  the  joint.  If  this  pull  is  taken  at  right 
angles  to  the  edge  of  the  insole  it  tends  to  remove  any  fullness  of  the 
upper  between  the  joint  and  the  instep.  The  form  of  the  last  is 
more  likely  to  remain  in  the  finished  shoe  when  the  strain  is  taken 
here,  as  the  leather  is  then  molded  around  the  joint  instead  of  being 
pulled  over,  as  would  be  the  case  if  the  draft  were  made  at  the  joint. 
The  reason  why  the  strain  should  first  be  taken  at  the  inside  joint  is 
that,  since  the  last  is  hollowed  so  much  at  the  outside,  there  is  a  great 
tendency  for  the  upper  to  slip  to  that  side,  causing  the  ears  to  be 
crooked.  Since  the  inside  is  more  convex  this  danger  does  not  exist. 
An  examination  of  the  Munson  last  shows  a  considerable  hollow  be- 
tween the  outside  joint  and  the  point  of  the  instep.  It  is  obvious, 
therefore,  that  if,  when  lasting  the  outside,  the  upper  is  strained  over 
the  joint  it  will  stand  away  from  the  last  and  form  a  bridge  or 
straight  line  over  this  hollow.  To  overcome  this,  the  first  strain 
should  be  taken  behind  the  outside  joint  at  a  point  well  toward  the 
heel ;  then  the  upper  will  be  molded  into  the  hollow  and  better  retain 
the  shape  of  the  last. 

Although  it  is  important  that  the  strains  be  set  up  in  the  order 
described,  this  alone  will  not  insure  the  best  results  unless  they  are 
set  in  a  correct  ratio. 

Most  upper  leather  has  some  stretch,  and  after  the  shoe  is  removed 
from  the  last  a  contraction  takes  place.  It  is  therefore  a  principle 
of  lasting  to  mold  the  upper  to  the  last  with  uniform  tension  if  uni- 
form contraction  is  to  occur.  This  fact  may  explain  why  operators 
who  work  exclusively  on  Army  shoes  are  able  to  obtain  better  results 
than  those  who  are  constantly  shifting  from  civilian  to  Army  work, 
as  the  latter  do  not  develop  the  sense  of  touch  that  indicates  when 
the  correct  strain  has  been  applied  to  each  draft. 

MACHINERY  USED  IN  LASTING. 

Having  set  forth  as  briefly  as  possible  the  fundamental  principles 
of  lasting,  our  attention  now  turns  to  the  machines  so  generally  used 
for  this  work.  The  lasting  machines  used  on  xirmy  shoes  are  those 
comprising  the  Rex  system.  The  Rex  pulling-over  machine  contains 
all  the  devices  which  are  essential  for  correct  hand  pulling  over,  and 
consist  of — 

1.  The  "  rest  "  against  which  the  bottom  of  the  last  is  placed. 

2.  The  automatic  heel  rest,  which  adjusts  itself  to  the  length  of  the  last. 


64  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

3.  Five  pairs  of  pincers,  two  at  either  side  and  one  in  the  center.    . 

4.  The  updraw  device,  which  has  compressed  air  chambers  to  prevent  the 
tension  being  put  on  suddenly  and  springs  to  regulate  the  tension. 

5.  A  device  which  causes  the  pincers  to  lay  the  upper  over  the  edge  of  the 
insole  with  adjustments  for  different  widths. 

6.  A  device  for  straightening  the  tip  and  another  for  straightening  the  uppei 
if  necessary. 

7.  A  device  for  releasing  the  grip  of  the  front  pincers  to  enable  the  upper  to 
be  brought  to  the  last  by  the  cross  strain. 

8.  A  device  for  delivering  and  driving  the  tacks. 

The  latter  machine  has  one  great  advantage  over  handwork  inas- 
much as  the  tensions  are  put  on  simultaneously  and  no  tacks  are 
driven  until  the  upper  is  straightened  down  on  the  last,  therefore  the 
work  can  be  handled  more  quickly  and  less  expensively. 

The  second  machine  in  this  system  is  the  Consolidated  Hand 
Method  Lasting  Machine,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  "  Nigger- 
head,"  for  side  lasting.  The  improvements  of  this  machine  have 
been  so  great  that  it  may  now  be  properly  termed  a  mechanical 
marvel  and  no  description  could  clearly  convey  all  its  intricate 
adjustments.  Among  the  principal  devices  may  be  mentioned  the 
following : 

1.  The  pincers  which  grip  the  upper,  together  with  a  device  which  controls 
the  strength  of  the  grip. 

2.  The  device  which  gives  the  pincers  the  necessary  motion.  The  pincers 
must  remain  open  until  they  have  reached  the  lowest  position  near  the  edge 
of  the  insole.  Then,  after  gripping  the  upper,  they  must  rise,  and  in  so  doing 
they  must  strain  the  upper  to  the  last,  putting  on  an  even  tension  regardless  of 
the  amount  of  material  to  be  pulled  up.  They  must  next  draw  the  upper 
over  the  edge  of  the  insole  and  release  its  grip. 

3.  Device  which  regulates  the  updraw  tension  required  for  the  various 
leathers. 

4.  Device  for  regulating  the  strength  of  the  overdraw  according  to  require- 
ments. 

5.  Devices  which  deliver  and  drive  the  tacks.  The  pincers  may  also  be  given  a 
twist  motion,  such  as  is  required  for  pleating  the  surplus  material  at  the  toe 
when  used  for  toe  lasting.  It  is  also  provided  with  two  raceways  which  deliver 
tacks  of ,  different  lengths. 

Although  it  is  not  possible  under  all  circumstances  to  do  work  on 
this  machine  equal  to  the  best  hand  lasting,  it  is  admitted  that  if  the 
conditions  are  correct  satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  by  a  com- 
petent laster,  as  each  and  every  principle  of  hand  lasting  may  be 
employed. 

If  a  hand  laster  is  observed  on  a  good  class  of  work,  it  will  be 
noticed  that  he  first  takes  the  stretch  out  of  the  material,  then  lets 
it  contract  before  taking  the  final  strain.  This  not  only  causes  the 
stretch  to  be  more  evenly  distributed,  but  reduces  the  amount  which 
the  upper  would  stretch  in  wear.  This  stretching  of  the  material 
is  usually  ignored  with  this  type  of  lasting  machine. 

Assuming  that  the  shoe  is  now  lasted,  with  the  exception  of  the 
toe  and  the  heel  seat,  it  is  next  sent  to  the  bed  lasting  machine. 
The  principal  features  of  this  machine  are  the  wipers  at  the  toe 
and  heel.  The  shoe  is  placed  on  a  jack  and  toe  rest,  both  of  which 
are  adjustable  in  height.  The  seat  wipers  are  on  a  carriage  which 
may  be  adjusted  to  any  length  of  shoe  as  well  as  any  angle  of  shank. 
The  wipers  consist  of  two  plates  having  a  hinge  motion  at  the  back. 
These  set  parallel  with  the  bottom  of  the  last  and  are  moved  for- 
ward by  a  lever,  pressing  the  material  down  flat  over  the  last.    As 


AKMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  TASTS.  65 

the  plates  move  forward  the  ends  toward  the  shank  are  brought 
closely  together.  Good  results  can  be  obtained  with  seat  wipers 
only  when  they  are  properly  set.  The  operator,  therefore,  must  see 
thai  they  exert  an  even  pressure  at  all  parts  of  the  seat.  They  must 
not  be  set  at  such  an  angle  that  either  the  front  or  the  back  touch 
while  the  opposite  end  does  not.  Care  must  be  taken  that  that  part 
of  the  machine  which  holds  the  back  of  the  heel  is  pressed  firmly 
in  place,  otherwise  the  shape  of  the  counter  will  be  distorted.  At  the 
toe  there  is  another  pair  of  plates  similar  to  the  seat  plates.  With 
these  the  upper  is  worked  into  the  shoulder.  It  is  important  that 
the  proper  adjustment  be  made  to  gather  the  surplus  in,  seating  it  in 
a  manner  that  will  leave  a  suitable  shoulder  for  the  welter  to  sew 
to.  This  is  necessary  to  avoid  full  toes,  so  called.  When  the  toe  is 
well  blocked  in,  a  wire  is  drawn  around  it  and  held  by  two  anchor 
tacks,  one  at  either  side  of  the  tip.  It  is  important  that  this  wire 
be  drawn  tight  enough  to  hold  the  upper  in  place,  also  that  a  suffi- 
cient wind  be  taken  around  the  anchor  tack  to  prevent  loosening  of 
the  wire,  and  that  the  wind  be  started  on  the  inside  of  the  anchor 
tack  and  finish  on  the  outside,  as  this  preserves  the  line  of  the 
inseams. 

An  important  feature  of  the  bed  machine  is  the  toe  hold.  This 
consists  of  a  plate  of  the  correct  shape  and  thickness  attached  to  an 
adjustable  arm.  It  should  fit  snugly  behind  the  upturned  lip  at  the 
toe,  the  object  being  to  brace  it  against  the  pressure  of  the  wipers 
as  it  crowds  the  upper  onto  the  shoulder  at  this  point.  It  also  pre- 
vents the  insole  being  pushed  back  or  buckled.  Obviously  the  use- 
fullness  of  this  device  depends  upon  its  shape  and  the  care  with 
which  it  is  placed  in  position.  It  is  important  that  the  toes  be 
wiped  in,  leaving  no  wrinkles  or  pleats  visible.  This  is  accom- 
plished with  the  aid  of  the  spreader,  a  small  hand  tool,  which,  as 
its  name  implies,  assists  in  evenly  disposing  of  the  surplus  material. 

When  the  assembler  places  the  counter  in  the  shoe  it  is  assumed 
that  it  will  be  properly  mulled.  Ordinarily  when  the  shoe  reaches 
the  bed  machine  the  counter  will  be  in  just  the  proper  condition 
for  molding  the  seat.  If,  however,  for  any  reason  the  seats  are 
not  lasted  before  the  counters  become  dry,  it  will  be  impossible  to 
obtain  a  smooth,  square-edged  seat.  It  is  advisable,  therefore,  for 
the  inspector  in  charge  to  make  such  arrangements  as  are  possible 
to  insure  that  no  more  shoes  are  assembled  or  pulled  than  can  be 
bed  lasted  before  the  bed-machine  operator  quits  work  for  the  day. 

Only  a  sufficient  number  of  tacks  should  be  used  to  securely  fasten 
the  seat.  More  than  that  would  serve  no  useful  purpose,  but  would 
increase  the  amount  of  metal  on  the  inside.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  the  heel-seat  nails  are  later  to  pass  through  these  parts. 
Before  the  shoe  is  taken  from  the  machine  the  seats  should  be 
thoroughly  pounded.  Before  leaving  the  lasting  room  each  shoe, 
in  so  far  as  possible,  should  be  examined  to  make  sure  that  there 
is  a  sufficient  amount  of  upper  drawn  over  at  all  points  to  insure 
catching  by  the  welter's  needle;  that  the  right  amount  of  upper 
and  counter  are  drawn  over  at  the  seat;  that  the  canvas  has  not 
been  destroyed  or  misplaced;  that  the  lip  at  the  toe  has  not  been 
w^eakened;  and  that  the  seat  tacks  are  placed  at  a  proper  distance 
from  the  edge  of  the  insole. 

35285—21 5 


C HAIDER    XI. 

MAKING. 


While  the  following  principles  are  fundamental  and  may  be  ap- 
plied in  part  to  all  classes  of  shoes,  they  are  touched  upon  here  with 
particular  reference  to  Army  shoes  manufactured  under  Specifica- 
tions 412-2-9,  and  should  be  so  considered  except  in  such  cases  where 
for  the  purpose  of  illustration  or  comparison  some  other  specification 
is  mentioned. 

TRIMMING  TOES. 

The  surplus  material  at  the  toe  and  the  vamp  should  now  be  re- 
moved. This  is  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  the  welting  of  the 
shoe  around  the  toe.  This  ma}^  be  done  either  by  hand  or  by  a  ma- 
chine having  a  knife  which  makes  a  chopping  motion,  but  unless  the 
knives  are  kept  well  sharpened  and  the  toe  of  the  shoe  held  firmly 
in  place  on  the  machine,  the  toe  will  be  jDulled  away  from  the  insole, 
and  thus  destroy  the  good  work  of  the  bed  laster. 

UPPER  STAPLING. 

Before  the  shoes  are  welted,  it  is  advisable  to  remove  the  lasting 
tacks  which  are  placed  temporarily  to  hold  the  upper.  Mention  has 
been  made  of  the  contraction  which  takes  place  in  the  upper  leather 
after  the  tension  is  released.  If  some  means  were  not  provided  to 
overcome  this,  the  upper  would  spring  back  when  the  tacks  were 
withdrawn.  It  is  customary,  therefore,  before  pulling  the  tacks  to 
fasten  the  upper  to  the  lip  of  the  insole  by  means  of  a  small  thread- 
like wire  which  is  passed  through  the  parts  and  forms  a  staple.  This 
Avork  is  done  on  the  United  States  Machinery  Co.  upper-stapling  ma- 
chine.   The  tacks,  with  the  exception  of  the  anchor  tacks,  are  then 

pulled. 

INSEAMING. 

This  operation  consists  of  attaching  the  welt  and  upper  to  the  lip 
of  the  insole  wKich  has  previously  been  prepared  in  the  sole-leather 
room.  The  method  used  is  the  chain  stitch,  which  passes  horizontally 
through  the  substances,  leaving  the  loop  in  the  groove  of  the  welt. 
The  needle  is  curved  and  has  a  barbed  point.  The  stitch-forming 
device  consists  of  a  looper  which,  by  a  circular  motion,  la^^s  the 
thread  in  the  barb  of  the  needle  when  it  emerges  from  the  work. 
When  the  needle  is  withdrawn  and  again  starts  its  journey  it  leaves 
behind  a  loop  through  Avhich  the  next  stitch  is  drawn,  the  work 
being  fed  along  in  the  meantime.  This  machine  is  provided  with  the 
necessary  devices  required  for  almost  perfect  work.  Before  start- 
ing to  attach  the  welt  the  inspector  should  see  that  it  is  properly 
66 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  67 

mulled.  A  channel  ornide  is  important,  because  if  the  needle  be 
cori'ectly  set  and  its  point  the  ricfht  shape  the  ^uide  will  indicate 
just  where  the  point  of  the  needle  will  come  through.  It  also  serves 
to  steady  the  work  when  the  needle  strikes  it.  A  welt  guide  is  neces- 
sary to  feed  the  welt  and  hold  it  in  position  so  the  needle  strikes 
through  the  groove.  There  is  also  an  arrangement  whereby  the 
pressure  of  the  welt  guide  is  removed  so  that  the  work  can  be  car- 
ried along  to  form  another  stitch. 

A  tension  device  is  necessary  so  that  regardless  of  any  variation 
in  thickness  of  material,  such  as  the  toe,  for  example,  a  uniform 
tension  of  the  stitch  will  be  put  on  at  all  parts  of  the  shoe.  This  is 
the  most  important  device  of  all.  as  the  strength  of  the  seam  depends 
not  so  much  on  the  length  of  the  stitch  or  the  size  of  the  thread 
as  upon  the  tension  used.  Experience  teaches  that  many  operators 
of  this  machine  will,  Avhenever  it  is  possible  without  detection,  re- 
lease the  tension,  as  this  reduces  the  liability  of  breaking  the  thread, 
particularly^  when  sewing  around  the  anchor  tack.  The  inspector, 
therefore,  must  give  this  detail  careful  and  constant  attention,  test- 
ing the  machines  at  frequent  intervals,  especially  when  an  operator 
changes  from  civilian  to  Army  work.  In  this  latter  case  it  is  also 
well  to  see  that  the  operator  has  changed  to  the  thread  specified  for 
Army  work,  as  a  lighter  thread  is  usually  used  for  civilian  work. 
When  the  shoe  is  sewed,  there  must  be  an  entire  absence  of  hinge 
action  between  the  welt,  upper,  and  insole,  otherwise  the  shoes  must 
not  be  accepted. 

The  machine  is  provided  with  a  heating  s^^stem  which  serves  not 
only  for  waxing  the  thread,  but  also  for  keeping  warm  each  part  of 
the  machine  with  which  the  waxed  thread  comes  in  contact,  such  as 
thread  roll,  looper,  and  needle,  otherwise  these  parts  would  become 
coated  with  hardened  wax  and  it  would  become  impossible  to  work 
the  machine.  This  machine,  with  its  many  improvements,  has  been 
brought  to  a  degree  of  perfection  that  enables  it  to  do  work  of  the 
most  satisfactory  nature,  yet  the  results  attained  depend  in  a  very 
large  measure  upon  the  skill  and  carefulness  of  the  operator.  Tfe 
must  carry  the  shoe  perfectly  level  at  all  parts.  He  must  so  regulate 
the  feed  that  the  proper  number  of  stitches  is  taken.  The  stitch 
must  be  laid  at  the  base  of  lip  on  the  insole,  and  directly  in  the  bed 
of  the  groove  of  the  welt. 

It  will  sometimes  be  noticed  that  the  welt  has  been  dropped  in 
places  and  that  the  stitch  is  laid  up  on  the  side  of  the  groove.  As  a 
result  there  is  a  w^eakne^s  at  this  part,  and  when  the  Avelt  is  beaten 
out  the  bevel  may  be  seen  from  the  outside.  Assuming  that  the 
canvas  was  properh^  formed  in  in  the  sole  leather  room,  the  welter 
may  still  tear  it  by  changing  the  level  at  Avhich  he  carries  the  shoe. 

The  needle  most  commonly  used  on  Army  work,  and  which  has 
been  found  to  give  the  most  satisfactory  results,  is  that  known  as 
the  medium  low  point,  No.  41.  It  may  be  found  that  after  striking 
a  tack  the  point  of  the  needle  will  be  left  with  a  burr.  This  will 
sometimes  tear  the  canvas.  The  inspector  should  ever  bear  in  mind 
that  this  seam,  being  the  most  difficult  to  repair,  should  be  formed 
with  the  maximum  of  strength,  and,  as  it  is  shortly  to  be  hidden 
from  any  subsequent  inspection  by  the  operations  which  follow,  he 
should  carefully  scrutinize  each  shoe  before  ]:>ermitting  it  to  pass. 


68  AEMY  SHOES  a:n'd  shoe  lasts. 

At  this  stage  in  most  factories  a  cobbler  is  maintained  for  the  pur- 
pose of  patching  and  cobbling  insoles  damaged  by  the  welter.  He 
is  usually  a  hand  worker,  more  or  less  skilled,  and  is  obsessed  with 
the  idea  that  no  insole  is  ever  damaged  sufficiently  to  justify  its  re- 
jection. The  lip  may  be  entirely  gone,  but  he  will  simply  cenient  a 
piece  of  canvas  over  where  the  missing  part  was  and  sew  through  it. 
He  may  hide  torn  places  with  a  coat  of  wax.  Short  pieces  of  dam- 
aged welt  aro  cut  out  and  other  pieces  substituted.  These  practices 
are  common  in  civilian  shoes,  and  when  the  loss  of  time,  labor,  and 
the  expense  of  a  new  insole  are  considered  they  may  be  understood 
though  hardly  justified.  The  inspector  must  guard  against  such 
methods  in  Army  shoes. 

No  shoes  should  be  repaired  on  which  the  lip  has  in  the  least  given 
away  from  the  insole.  No  insole  which  has  been  sewed  more  than 
once,  leaving  two  sets  of  holes,  should  be  accepted.  Neither  should 
work  be  accepted  where  the  w^elter  has  gouged  deeply  into  the  sub- 
stance of  the  insole.  When  the  canvas  has  been  torn  without  in- 
juring the  lip  itself  it  may  be  permitted  to  replace  the  torn  part 
with  a  new  piece  and  resew  the  welt,  using  the  original  holes.  In 
a  similar  manner  drop  stitches  may  be  replaced.  The  welts  should 
be  butted  with  a  scarf  not  less  than  five-eighths  of  an  inch  long. 
They  should  then  be  pounded  and  fastened  with  a  tack  of  suitable 
length.  This  serves  to  hold  the  welt  secure  at  this  point.  This  is 
done  so  that  a  proper  line  may  be  maintained  along  the  seam  at  the 
breast  of  the  heel. 

TACK  PULLING. 

When  the  welt  has  been  sewed  on,  the  tacks  used  to  hold  the  insole, 
likewise  the  anchor  tacks  used  to  hold  the  toe-bracing  wire,  must  be 
removed.  This  may  be  done  either  by  hand  or  by  machine.  The 
work  is  usually  performed  by  boys  or  girls,  and  what  might  other- 
wise be  classed  as  a  most  simple  operation  often  gives  cause  for 
much  complaint  from  final  inspectors.  Owing  to  the  gross  careless- 
ness of  those  employed  on  this  work  many  tacks  are  left  in  the  shoe. 
Sometimes  the  heads  are  knocked  off  and  no  further  attempts  are 
made  to  remove  the  tacks.  As  it  is  impossible  to  withdraw  these 
tacks  after  the  insole  has  been  covered  up,  and  in  view  of  the  serious 
results  which  might  occur  to  the  wearer  should  one  be  overlooked, 
the  importance  of  this  operation  must  not  be  underrated.  Owing  to 
the  vigilance  of  the  final  inspector  many  shoes  are  rejected  for  this 

fault. 

INSEAM  TRIMMING. 

The  seam  must  now  be  trimmed  of  all  surplus  upper  stock  and 
insole  lip  to  assist  the  middle  or  outer  sole,  as  the  case  may  be,  to 
lie  flat  upon  it  and  reduce  the  strain  required  to  bring  the  welt 
and  sole  together  when  they  are  Goodyear  stitched.  This  work  is 
sometimes  done  by  hand,  but  may  be  much  better  done  by  the 
improved  new  model  United  Shoe  Machinery  Co.  inseam  trimmer. 
The  cutting  implement  in  this  machine  consists  of  a  steel  cylinder 
sharpened  on  its  edge  by  a  device  which  may  be  adjusted  at  any 
time.  It  rotates  at  high  speed  in  a  direction  at  right  angles  to 
that  in  which  the  shoe  is  fed  along.    It  cuts  a  smooth  even  edge  and 


ABMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS.  69 

may  be  adjusted  to  a  very  fine  degree.  The  danger  to  be  avoided 
in  this  operation  is  of  cutting  the  seam  too  close  to  the  stitch.  Care 
should  always  be  taken  that  enough  material  is  left  above  the 
stitch  to  prevent  any  weakness.  Even  with  a  minimum  of  care  with 
this  machine  the  inseam  may  be  perfectly  trimmed. 

WELT  BEATING. 

It  Avill  now  be  necessary  to  beat  out  the  welt.  This  is  done  with 
a  small  power  hammer  which  rapidly  rises  and  descends,  the  shoe 
usually  being  held  bottom  up,  the  welt  resting  on  a  small  horizontal 
bracket  which  is  beveled  to  a  thin  edge  to  fit  close  to  the  upper. 
This  operation  should  be  performed  as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
welt  has  been  sewed  as  it  will  then  be  in  proper  temper.  In  no  case 
should  the  welt  be  allowed  to  dry  before  beating  out.  A  certain 
result  of  this  would  be  to  severely  strain  the  stitch  and  cause  a 
grinning  seam.  This  latter  defect  may  sometimes  be  caused  at  this 
operation  by  the  thin  edge  of  the  anvil  pressing  too  far  into  the 
seam  and  forming  a  lever  which  strains  it.  When  circumstances 
are  such  that  it  is  found  impossible  to  beat  out  the  welt  before  it 
becomes  too  dry,  it  should  be  re  wet  before  being  beat  out. 

CEMENTING  THE  INSOLK 

The  bottom  of  the  insole  should  now  be  brushed  with  a  generous 
coat  of  best  quality  cement.  In  addition  to  holding  the  forepart 
bottom  filler  in  place,  this  cement  adds  to  the  damp -resisting  quali- 
ties of  the  shoe. 

FILLING  THE  BOTTOM. 

The  forepart  filler,  having  previously  been  coated  with  rubber 
cement  on  the  grain  side,  may  now  be  inserted.  This,  however, 
should  not  be  done  until  such  time  as  the  solvent  in  the  cement  has 
evaporated.  Cause  for  much  complaint  has  been  found  in  the  care- 
less manner  in  which  this  work  is  usually  done,  due,  no  doubt,  to  a 
failure  to  fully  realize  its  importance.  If  the  forepart  bottom  is  to 
be  properly  filled,  the  filler  must  be  the  right  size  and  shape.  As 
each  size  filler  requires  a  separate  die,  manufacturers  are  inclined 
to  provide  as  few  sizes  as  possible.  Even  when  a  sufficient  number 
of  sizes  are  supplied  they  sometimes  become  mixed  through  careless 
handling,  and  fillers  are  put  in  shoes  which  are  either  too  small  or 
too  large.  Sometimes  it  is  found  that  the  schedule  of  sizes  as  ar- 
ranged by  the  superintendent  must  be  rearranged. 

To  be  satisfactory  the  forepart  filler  must  easily  fill  the  space  be- 
tAveen  the  channels.  It  must  not  ride  on  the  inseam,  as  this  would 
interfere  with  the  laying  and  stitching  of  the  sole.  It  must  extend 
far  enough  into  the  shank  to  be  lapped  by  the  shank  filler. 

Much  controversy  has  been  had  with  superintendents  who  have 
taken  advantage  of  the  clause  in  the  specifications  which  permits  the 
use  of  a  plastic  filler  as  an  adjunct  to  the  solid  filler.  Experience 
shoAvs  that  this  method  of  filling  is  neither  desirable  nor  feasible  and 
should  be  discouraged  as  far  as  possible. 

The  shank  filler  may  now  be  put  in,  care  being  used  to  secure  the 
proper  lap  required  for  a  safe  and  even  joint  with  the  forepart 


70  ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

filler.  The  specifications  state  that  shank  fillers  must  be  cemented  in, 
no  tacks  being  used.  This  method  of  attaching  the  shank  is  im- 
practicable, it  being  found  impossible  with  the  use  of  rubber 
cement  alone  to  attach  the  steel  shank  sufficiently  firmly  to  remain  in 
place  until  the  sole  is  laid.  Shoes  have  often  been  found  by  the 
sole  layer  with  shanks  missing  in  some  cases  and  in  others  mis- 
placed. Since  the  shank  filler  must  extend  to  the  back  of  the  heel 
cavity,  no  possible  objection  can  be  raised  to  attaching  the  shank  at 
the  seat  with  tw^o  tacks  of  suitable  length. 

The  entire  filled  bottom  should  now  be  brushed  over  with  a  heavy 
coat  of  rubber  cement  and  permitted  to  dry. 

*• 

SOLE    LAYING. 

In  this  type  of  shoe,  with  two  heavy  soles,  some  difficulty  is  found 
in  laying  and  stitching  soles  to  the  w^elt.  Owing  to  the  tension  re- 
quired in  stitching  them  together,  the  welt  seam,  being  the  weaker, 
gives  to  the  strain,  often  showing  a  grinning  seam.  This  may  be 
overcome  by  thoroughly  cementing  middle  soles  and  outer  soles 
together,  then  molding  them,  and,  after  coating  the  surface  of  both 
bottom  filler  and  middle  sole,  laying  sole  on  the  machine  with  suit- 
able pressure.    The  soles  should  be  in  proper  temper. 

The  shoes  should  be  allowed  to  remain  under  pressure  until  the 
sole  is  firmly  in  position.  Attention  should  be  given  this  operation 
to  see  that  the  sole  is  laid  in  the  proper  position.  For  economical 
reasons  manufacturers  seldom  provide  soles  which  allow  any  surplus, 
therefore,  the  operator  must  be  careful  that  the  sole  is  evenly  laid 
as  a  slip  to  either  side  will  result  in  a  shortage  which  will  usually 
make  it  impossible  to  maintain  the  specified  extension  after  the  edge 
is  trimmed. 

ROUGH  ROUNDING. 

Shoes  are  next  sent  to  the  rough  rounder.  This  very  useful  ma- 
chine shapes  the  sole  and  welt  and  also  cuts  a  groove  which  serves  as 
a  guide  in  which  the  Goodyear  stitcher  lays  the  stitch.  It  is  fitted 
with  a  guard  which  works  against  the  inseam  and  governs  the 
width  of  the  extension.  It  should  be  set  so  as  to  leave  an  extension 
of  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  wider  than  tliat  required  on  the  finished 
shoe,  as  this  amount  is  the  minimum  which  can  be  trimmed  and 
yet  make  a  smooth  edge.  By  the  use  of  a  pedal  attachment  an 
additional  guide  may  be  used  which  leaves  the  w^elt  wider  at  the 
forepart.  For  the  varying  widths  required  by  Army  shoe  specifica- 
tions an  adjustable  attachment  is  provided  wMch  enables  the  oper- 
ator to  trim  the  welt  wide  at  the  outside  ball,  gradually  diminish- 
ing the  width  toward  the  toe.  This  must  be  adjusted  according  to 
requirements. 

The  cutting  device  is  a  small  chisel,  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
wide,  w^hich  makes  a  number  of  overlapping  cuts  as  the  shoe  is  fed 
along.  By  means  of  an  adjustment  the  groove  may  be  cut  the  de- 
sired distance  from  the  edge.  This  operation  also  serves  to  more 
closely  unite  the  welt  and  sole,  which  is  an  advantage  to  the  Good- 
year stitcher. 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  71 

GOODYEAR  STITCHING. 

A  desirable  feature  of  a  well-stitched  edge  is  good  appearance. 
This  depends  on  the  uniformity  of  stitches  and  the  depth  to  Avhich 
they  are  sunk  into  the  welt.  This  is  determined  by  the  adjustment  of 
thenieclianism  which  affects  tlie  length  of  the  stitch  and  the  tension. 

The  stitch  used  is  a  lock  stitch.  The  thread  which  shows  on  the 
Avelt  passes  through  a  pot  of  semiliquid  wax,  the  shuttle  thread  being 
usually  waxed  when  it  is  wound  on  the  spooL  One  or  all  of  three 
causes  may  aifect  the  life  of  this  seam,  namely,  inferior  thread,  loose 
tension,  or  an  awl  or  needle  too  large.  The  danger  from  the  first  of 
these  is  practically  eliminated  by  the  frequent  laboratory  thread  tests 
made  at  this  office.  If  the  tension  is  loose  there  will  be  a  play  between 
the  parts  which  soon  cuts  the  thread.  The  inspector,  to  guard  against 
this  should  frequently  examine  the  shoes  to  see  that  the  lock  is  drawn 
a  proper  distance  below  the  surface. 

It  is  not  admitted  that  the  lock  stitch  is  equal  to  the  handmade 
stitch,  since  the  hole  for  the  former  must  be  large  enough  for  the 
lock  to  pass  through  while  the  hole  for  the  latter  can  be  smaller  than 
the  two  threads.  It  is  the  boast  of  old  time  hand  workmen  that  after 
completing  a  well-made  hand  stitch  the  loop  of  each  stitch  may  be 
cut  at  the  surface  of  the  sole  without  affecting  the  usefulness  of  the 
seam.  This  is  because  the  thread,  being  crowded  into  such  a  small 
hole,  grips  the  fibers  of  the  sole,  the  principle  being  much  the  same  as 
that  which  enables  the  wooden  i^eg  (which  has  neither  head  nor 
clinch)  to  hold  the  parts  together.  It  will  be  seen  from  the  above 
that  the  right-size  awl  and  needle  are  important.  For  Goodyear 
stitching  a  No.  47  needle  used  in  connection  with  a  No.  43  awl  has 
been  found  to  give  satisfaction. 

The  tension  on  the  w^ax  stripper  should  be  so  adjusted  as  to  allow 
a  full  flow  of  w^ax  and  insure  the  thread  being  thoroughly  saturated. 
A  sole  stitched  on  a  Goodyear  lock-stitch  machine  under  proper  con- 
ditions may  be  Avorn  to  the  thinness  of  a  dime  and  yet  hold  the 
stitches. 

A  suitable  wax  and  its  proper  application  are  important.  Threads 
for  sole  stitching  are  made  of  many  strands.  If  when  being  draw^n 
through  the  hole  the  friction  is  greater  on  any  particular  strand, 
that  strand  will  stretch  and  double  up,  causing  an  obstruction  that 
often  results  in  a  breakage.  It  usually  gives  a  fuzzy,  ragged  appear- 
ance to  the  stitch.  There  is  always  considerable  amount  of  friction 
set  up  when  a  thread  is  passed  through  a  small  hole,  but  by  using 
a  suitable  wax  the  unequal  stretch  is  prevented,  and  by  binding  the 
strands  together  loose  twisted  threads  are  prevented  from  splitting 
on  tlie  barb  of  the  needle.  Friction  is  also  appreciably  lessened,  since 
by  binding  the  fibers  together  the  diameter  of  the  thread  is  reduced. 
Wax  also  lessens  the  wear  on  the  thread  by  acting  as  a  lubricant. 
Suitable  wax  also  helps  to  make  a  seam  waterproof  by  cementing 
the  stitch  to  the  leather  and  in  the  case  of  the  inseam  filling  any 
spaces  which  might  exist.  It  also  helps  to  preserve  the  thread  from 
dampness  and  from,  sharp  grit  which  undoubtedly  often  damages  it. 
Wax  should  possess  adhesiveness  and  have  as  low  a  melting  point 
as  is  consistent  with  cleanliness  in  its  use.  Brittle  wax  soon  leaves  the 
thread;  hard  wax  strains  the  leather  and  weakens  the  thread;  wax 


72  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

with  too  much  oil  or  grease  in  its  composition  will  dissolve  at  too 
low  a  melting  pointy  resulting  in  a  splashing  of  the  work  and  the 
parts  of  the  machines  with  which  the  thread  comes  in  contact. 

LEVELING. 

The  machine  most  commonly  used  and  preferable  for  this  operation 
is  the  United  Shoe  Machinery  Co.  automatic  leveler.  The  shoe  while 
still  on  the  last  is  placed  on  a  spindle  and  toe  rest.  A  concave  roller, 
attached  to  an  arm  having  a  vibratory  motion,  is  rolled  back  and 
forth  lengthwise  over  the  sole.  In  addition  there  is  a  rocking  mo- 
tion which  adjusts  the  roller  to  the  convexity  of  the  bottom  and  the 
hollow  of  the  shank.  It  is  important  that  the  pressure  be  applied 
evenly  at  all  parts  of  the  shoe.  If  the  toe  rest  is  set  too  low  the 
roller  passes  over  the  end  of  the  toe  without  exerting  any  pressure, 
and  when  the  shoe  is  removed  from  the  machine  and  viewed  sidewise 
it  will  be  found  that  a  hollow  exists  on  the  bottom  where  the  pres- 
sure was  first  applied,  leaving  the  part  toward  the  toe  in  its  original 
position.  The  pressure  may  be  adjusted  to  suit  the  requirements,  and 
it  should  be  sufficient  to  conform  the  bottom  to  the  shape  of  the  last, 
leaving  no  depressions  or  humps  either  inside  or  outside. 

The  roller  should  extend  far  enough  back  to  roll  down  the  butts  of 
the  welts  and  ends  of  the  counters.  An  additional  feature  of  this 
work  is  that,  with  correct  pressure  adjustment,  the  Goodyear  stitch 
is  rolled  down  and  the  diameter  of  the  needle  hole  is  reduced  by 
pressing  the  leather  closer  around  the  stitch. 

PULLING  LASTS. 

The  lasts  should  now  be  withdrawn.  Instances  have  arisen  when 
operators,  for  the  purpose  of  saving  time,  would  pull  lasts  without 
first  removing  the  blocks.  This  method  results  in  a  severe  straining, 
if  not  the  actual  breakage,  of  the  throat;  therefore,  the  inspector 
should  watch  this  operation  for  this  fault. 

HEEL   SEAT  NAILING. 

In  many  factories  the  seat  nailing  is  done  immediately  after  sole 
laying  and  while  the  shoe  is  on  the  last.  When  this  is  done,  it  is 
impossible  to  know  just  how  the  nails  appear  on  the  inside  until 
sometime  later  when  the  lasts  are  withdrawn.  It  follows,  then,  that 
if  the  adjustments  on  the  machine  have  become  displaced,  many  shoes 
may  be  improperly  nailed  before  the  fault  is  discovered.  AYhen 
seats  are  nailed  off  the  last  it  is  possible  to  examine  each  shoe 
immediately  after  the  operation  is  finished.  Furthermore,  the  ideal 
clinch  is  obtained  when  shoes  are  nailed  off  the  last  as  the  points  are 
driven  against  a  cup  which  turns  them  back  into  the  leather.  The 
objections  raised  against  nailing  seats  off  the  last  is  that  there  is  a 
liability  of  the  soles  becoming  displaced  before  stitching,  but  the 
fact  that  it  is  successfully  done  in  some  factories  is  evidence  that, 
with  the  liberal  use  of  good  cement,  this  danger  may  be  avoided. 
'Whichever  method  is  emploj^ed,  shoes  must  be  carefully  watched 
to  insure  the  nails  being  placed  far  enough  in  to  catch  the  insole  and 
far  enough  out  to  catch  the  counter.     A  fault  in  either  direction 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  73 

would  be  serious  and  not  easily  discovered  until  the  shoe  is  completed. 
The  nail  should  be  of  such  length  as  to  propei4y  clinch  without 
leaving  any  roughness  on  the  inside.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
the  clinch  will  vary  according  to  weight  of  the  sole,  counter,  insole, 
and  upper. 

SEAT  TRIMMING. 

When  block  soles  are  used,  the  heel  part  of  the  sole  may  be  so 
unlike  the  heel  of  the  shoe  that  it  is  necessary  to  shape  this  part  to 
assist  the  heeler  in  putting  the  heel  on  correctly.  If  the  seat  of  the 
sole  projects  more  on  one  side  than  on  the  other,  or  if  the  sole  pro- 
jects unevenly  at  the  seat,  it  will  be  difficult  for  the  heeler  to  main- 
tain a  uniform  pitch  or  to  avoid  the  heels  inclining  to  one  side.  The 
heel  seat  is,  therefore,  trimmed  usually  on  a  machine  with  a  rapidly 
rotating  cutting  tool.  A  little  practice  soon  brings  skill  in  this 
operation,  and  cause  for  complaint  is  seldom  found. 

REINFORCING  NAILS. 

The  shanks  are  reinforced  with  brass  nails,  five  on  the  inside  and 
four  on  the  outside.  Care  should  be  taken  that  they  are  properly  and 
smoothly  clinched  on  the  insole  and  slightly  countersunk  on  the  out- 
sole.  The  length  of  nails  most  commonly  used,  and  which  appears 
to  give  the  best  satisfaction,  is  6J/8. 

HEEL  ATTACHING. 

Heels  are  attached  to  the  garrison  shoe  by  the  method  known  as 
surface  nailing,  i.  e.,  the  nails  are  driven  through  the  toppiece.  To 
accomplish  this,  the  toppiece  must  first  be  fastened  to  the  heel.  There 
are  several  machines  in  use  for  attaching  the  heels,  the  one  most  com- 
monly used  being  the  McKay.  This  machine  is  provided  with  ad- 
justments for  regulating  the  pitch,  i.  e.,  the  forward  slant  of  the  heel. 
It  also  has  adjustments  for  regulating  the  swing.  The  pressure  may 
also  be  adjusted  so  that  the  front  and  back  of  the  heel  may  receive 
different  amounts  of  pressure.  It  has  a  device  which  automatically 
delivers  the  nails  into  a  plate  having  the  required  number  of  holes 
which  are  located  in  the  position  corresponding  to  that  in  which  the 
nails  are  to  be  driven.  The  shoe  is  placed  on  a  swinging  arm,  having 
a  steel  heel  rest,  and  placed  in  a  clamp,  and  by  a  movement  of  the 
treadle  a  pressure  is  applied  and  the  nails  driven  through  the  parts 
to  be  fastened. 

Heels  should  be  attached  even  and  straight,  and  with  a  pressure  so 
distributed  that  the  entire  surface  of  the  toppiece  and  the  center  of 
the  sole  touch  when  the  shoe  is  set  on  an  even  surface.  Nails  should 
be  of  the  proper  length  to  barely  show  on  the  insole  and  leave  no 
roughness. 

HEEL  SLUGGING. 

Slugs  should  be  seven-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  length. 

If  it  is  found  that  this  operation  causes  the  heel  to  check,  it  would 
be  well  to  see  if  the  awl  is  making  a  hole  deep  enough  for  the 
length  of  the  slugs.    Checking  heels  at  this  operation  may  be  over- 


74  AEMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

come  by  so  adjustinor  the  length  of  the  slugs  that  the  point  comes  in 
the  middle  of  tha  lift. 

Slugs  should  be  at  proper  distances  from  the  edge  of  the  toppiece 
and  should  extend  close  to  the  breast  of  the  heel  on  either  side. 
There  should  be  one  outside  row  all  around  and  an  inside  row  three- 
quarters  around.  They  should  be  evenly  spaced  so  as  not  to  present 
a  crowded  appearance.  Seven  to  the  inch  gives  this  result.  The 
slugs  used  are  125  steel  slugging  wire. 

The  slugs  are  simply  a  length  of  wire  cut  from  a  coil,  no  attempt 
being  made  to  form  either  a  head  or  a  point.  The  machine  has  ad- 
justments for  var^'ing  the  length  of  nail  and  for  varying  the  dis- 
tance between  them.^  The  slugs  should  never  be  set  so  low  that  they 
can  not  be  scoured  without  removing  the  grain  from  the  toppiece. 

HEEL  SHAVING. 

Heels  are  shaved  on  a  machine  the  principle  of  which  is  similar 
to  that  of  a  lathe,  the  heel  being  placed  in  contact  with  the  revolving 
knives. 

The  principle  of  the  knives  differs  somewhat,  those  on  the  "Ul- 
tima "  being  molded  to  the  reverse  shape  desired  for  the  heel,  and 
sometimes  termed  "  shell  cutters,"  are  sharpened  from  the  inside, 
and  the  shape  of  the  heel  is  not  much  affected  by  indifferent  grind- 
ing. In  the  McKay  machine  the  knives  are  flat  pieces  of  steel  sharp- 
ened from  the  outside,  being  ground  to  a  template,  and  careless 
grinding  may  result  in  changing  the  shape. 

The  shape  of  the  bevel  should  be  governed  by  the  nature  of  the 
material  being  cut,  a  long,  hollow  bevel  giving  the  best  results  on 
soft,  mellow  leather,  while  for  hard,  brittle  material  the  short, 
thick  bevel  is  better. 

Tlie  material  used  for  pasting  the  heels  is  sometimes  of  such  a 
nature  as  to  quickly  dull  the  edges  of  the  knives.  The  knives  used 
in  the  Ultima  are  ground  without  a  guide,  and  unless  a  similar 
amount  is  taken  off  eacli  blade  there  will  be  an  unpleasant  bumping 
when  the  heel  is  being  trimmed.  This  is  avoided  in  the  McKay, 
since  the  cutters  are  ground  to  a  template  and  even  amounts  are 
removed  from  both  blades.  In  the  interests  of  economv  the  knives 
should  be  ground  as  soon  as  they  become  dull.  It  will  then  not 
take  long  and  the  heels  will  be  left  with  a  smooth  surface,  reducing 
the  scourer's  labor  to  a  minimum. 

Heels  should  be  well  trimmed  at  the  corners  near  the  breast.  It 
can  be  done  on  the  shaving  machines  without  danger  of  damaging 
the  upper,  whereas  there  is  no  guard  on  the  scouring  machine  to 
prevent  this.  There  is  a  small  guard  for  the  toppiece  to  fit  against, 
and  this  may  be  adjusted  so  that  the  knives  trim  in  close  to  the  top, 
or  vice  versa.  There  is  also  a  guard  which  enables  the  seat  to  be 
trimmed  close  or  left  full.  The  McKay  machine  is  provided  with 
rand  cutters,  which  work  in  conjunction  with  the  heel  cutters.  This 
does  satisfactory  work  on  low,  straight  heels.  In  the  Ultima  a 
separate  rand  cutter  is  provided,  which  shapes  that  part  of  the 
sole  which  comes  next  to  the  upper.  When  correctly  used  it  is  of 
great  assistance  to  the  scourer.  A  well  lasted  heel  seat  is  the  basis 
of  good  heel  shaving  as  the  counterguard  follows  around  it.     If 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  75 

the  sides  differ  in  shape  or  there  are  humps  in  it,  the  result  will 
show  in  the  heel. 

The  speed  of  the  machine  is  important.  If  this  is  too  low  there  will 
be  a  pronounced  tapping  sound.  If  it  is  too  high  it  may  cause  the 
whole  machine  to  vibrate.  The  result  in  the  heel  would  be,  in  this 
case,  to  leav  e  a  surface  covered  with  a  series  of  small  ridges,  usually 
described  as  "  shivers."  Where  two  knives  are  used  6,000  revolutions 
are  generally  considered  necessary. 

When  the  heel  is  shaved  it  should  present  a  smooth,  square  surface. 
The  knives  should  not  cut  too  deeply  into  the  top  piece,  as  the  bead 
remaining  must  be  scoured  off,  thus  reducing  its  size.  The  rand 
should  be  trimmed  full  and  free  from  flesh. 

HEEL  SCOURING. 

Nothing  less  than  the  best  possible  work  should  be  accepted  from 
the  shavers,  because  although  indifferent  shaving  may  be  corrected 
by  the  scourer  he  can  hardly  be  expected  to  produce  good  results  if 
he  is  required  to  do  the  work  which  properly  belongs  to  the  shaver 

The  object  of  heel  scouring  is  to  produce  a  smooth,  hard  heel,  suit- 
able either  for  padding  and  brushing  or  burnishing  with  a  hot  iron. 
The  principle  of  all  heel  scouring  machines  is  the  same.  The  heel  is 
held  against  a  revolving  wheel,  covered  with  a  thick  felt,  over  which 
is  temporarily  placed  an  abrasive.  The  wheel  is  broad  enough  so  that 
the  full  height  of  the  heel  can  be  scoured  at  once.  The  shape  of  the 
rolls  should  follow  as  closely  as  possible  that  of  the  cutter  so  that  the 
retaining  of  the  shape  of  the  heel  will  depend  more  on  the  machine 
and  less  on  the  skill  of  the  operator. 

Two  grades  of  abrasive  are  used,  a  coarse  for  the  first  scouring  and 
a  finer  for  the  second.  With  the  first  scouring  the  mark  of  the  cutters 
should  be  removed  and  any  uneA^enness  or  humps  should  be  shaped. 
In  a  like  manner  the  second  scouring  should  remove  the  mark  of  the 
coarse  scouring  and  leave  the  surface  free  from  scratches.  The  mate- 
rials which  are  used  for  abrasives  vary  in  hardness  and  fineness. 
Such  materials  as  sand,  quartz,  flint,  emery,  and  carborundum  have 
been  used.  Of  those  mentioned  carborundum  is  far  the  best.  The 
improvements  made  in  the  producing  of  abrasives  has  greatly 
lessened  the  labor  of  the  scourer. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  shape  heels  by  scouring  when  damp,  as  in  this 
condition  the  coarse  abrasive  will  only  make  deep  scratches  while  fine 
abrasive  would  only  glaze  the  heel.  The  reason  for  this  is  plain 
when  it  is  understood  that  the  principle  of  the  operation  is  not  a  cut 
but  a  knock  which  chips  or  tears  off  fine  particles.  Also  the  fact 
should  be  borne  in  mind  that  leather  swells  and  shrinks  when  wet 
and  dry,  consequently  a  heel  scoured  when  wet  will,  when  it  dries, 
crack  and  check.  It  is  a  mistake  to  use  too  coarse  an  abrasive  on  the 
first  sciouring  as  it  increases  the  difficulty  of  removing  the  scratches 
with  the  fine  wheel.  In  maintaining  the  shape  of  the  heel  best  results 
are  obtained  by  starting  the  scouring  at  one  corner  and  going  around 
the  heel  to  the  opposite  corner  with  a  continuous  swing.  When  the 
heel  is  scoured  in  sections,  a  flat  place  is  apt  to  result  where  the  heel 
is  taken  off  the  wheel  and  a  fresh  start  made. 

Scouring  is  an  operation  which  requires  skill  and  judgment,  as  the 
operator  has  neither  guard  to  prevent  injuring  the  upper  nor  a  guide 


76  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

to  indicate  when  a  sufficient  amount  lias  been  removed  from  any  par- 
ticular part  of  the  heel.  A  careful  operator  will  maintain  his  rolls 
in  correct  shape  and  see  that  they  run  true.  This  greatly  aids  in 
maintaining  the  shape  of  the  heel  and  securing  a  smooth  surface.  Xo 
more  should  be  scoured  off  the  top  than  is  necessary  to  obtain  smooth- 
ness. 

BREASTING. 

Unless  the  heel  has  previously  been  breasted  in  the  sole-leather 
room,  this  operation  must  now  be  performed  on  the  shoe.  It  is 
usually  done  with .  a  knife  or  gouge  having  the  shape  required,  the 
pressure  used  to  force  it  through  the  heel  being  applied  either  by  foot 
or  by  power.  The  operator  should  grind  the  knife  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  will  conform  to  the  convex  shape  of  the  sole  in  the  shank.  He 
should  be  careful  that  the  guard  is  properly  set  and  that  the  knife 
does  not  sink  too  deeply  into  the  sole.  There  is  danger  here  of  se- 
riously damaging  the  shoe. 

EDGE  TRIMMING. 

The  object  of  finishing  the  edge  is  to  improve  its  appearance  and, 
by  compression,  to  give  it  a  permanent  mold.  It  also  increases  the 
life  of  the  sole  by  making  the  edge  better  able  to  resist  water.  The 
compressing  and  molding  are  done  by  means  of  the  edge-setting  iron, 
but,  to  facilitate  this,  it  is  necessary  that  the  edge  undergo  some 
preparation,  therefore  it  must  be  trimmed  to  the  shape  desired.  This 
is  done  with  a  tool  mounted  on  a  shaft  and  made  to  revolve  at  a  high 
speed.  The  edge  of  the  sole  is  then  shaped  by  being  drawn  along 
while  held  in  contact  w^ith  the  revolving  cutter. 

The  cutter  is  made  from  one  solid  piece  and  has  16  blades.  When 
sharpening  the  cutter  two  things  are  important — if  the  cutter  is 
viewed  sidewise  it  will  be  seen  that  the  cutting  edge  of  each  blade  is 
higher  than  the  back  of  the  blade,  otherwise  it  would  not  cut ;  if  more 
is  ground  off  one  blade  than  another,  they  will  not  be  in  a  perfect 
circle,  and  good  work  can  not  be  done  on  account  of  the  bumping 
which  results.  The  careful  workman  will  immediately  remedy  this 
fault.  To  ascertain  which  of  the  blades  is  out  of  a  true  circle  a  piece 
of  emery  is  held  against  the  revolving  cutter.  When  the  cutter  is 
examined  it  will  be  found  that  the  edge  of  the  blade  which  protrudes 
is  nicked  to  a  depth  corresponding  to  the  extent  of  its  excessive 
length.  The  blade  may  then  be  ground  until  the  nick  is  removed 
therefrom.  The  other  important  detail  is  the  angle  of  the  cutting 
edge.  The  angle  as  it  is  in  a  new  cutter  is  scientifically  correct,  and 
when  resharpening  the  cutter  this  angle  should  be  maintained.  To 
insure  this  the  post  on  which  the  cutter  is  held  when  being  ground 
should  be  moved  along  as  the  blades  wear  away. 

Fitted  against  the  inside  lip  of  the  cutter  is  a  thin  circular  disk 
called  a  shield  which  prevents  cutting  the  upper.  Shields  are  made 
in  different  sizes  and  care  should  be  used  in  selecting  the  proper  size. 
The  bed  of  the  cutter  is  measured  in  forty-eighths  of  an  inch  and  the 
size  of  the  cutter  should  correspond  to  the  combined  irons  of  the 
bottom  stock.  The  edge  trimmer  should  correct  any  such  irregulari- 
ties of  extension  as  are  left  by  the  rounder  and  b}-  improper  sole 


ARMY   SHOES   AND  SHOE  LASTS.  77 

laying,  but  in  doing  so  he  should  never  reduce  the  extension  below  the 
measurements  specified. for  this  shoe. 

Tlie  successful  trimming  of  the  edge  depends  as  much  on  the  proper 
condition  of  the  leather  as  upon  the  keenness  of  the  cutter  edge. 
When  a  hand  knife  is  used  by  hand  the  action  is  similar  to  that  of  a 
very  fine  saw,  whereas  that  of  the  edge  cutter  resembles  that  of  a 
chisel.  If  the  leather  is  hard,  dry,  and  firm,  the  resistance  to  the 
blow  will  be  such  that  the  result  will  be  in  the  nature  of  a  tear  and  the 
edge  will  be  coarse.  If  the  leather  is  of  a  soft,  mellow  tannage,  re- 
sistance will  not  be  so  great  and  the  edge  will  be  comparatively 
smooth.  It  is,  therefore,  advisable  to  counteract  the  hardness  by 
wetting  the  edge.  After  wetting,  the  edge  should  be  allowed  to  stand 
until  the  fibers  absorb  the  moisture.  Judgment  must  be  used  in  this, 
as  it  is  plain  that  if  the  leather  is  too  wet  there  will  be  no  resistance 
to  the  blow  of  the  blade  and  the  fibers  will  simply  be  knocked  down 
by  the  cutter. 

The  inspector  should  see  that  the  proper-size  cutter  is  used  at  all 
times.  The  edge  must  be  smooth  and  even,  with  the  proper  extension 
at  all  points.  It  must  be  trimmed  square  from  heel  to  heel  and  the 
joints  at  the  heel  left  even  without  any  humps  or  shoulders. 

EDGE  SETTING. 

For  the  purpose  of  further  improving  the  appearance  the  edge 
must  be  made  more  solid  and  more  waterproof,  for,  as  left  by  the 
trimmer,  the  edge  is  too  soft  and  open  and  will  quickly  absorb  water 
and  lose  its  shape.  To  overcome  this  the  edge  is  compressed  and 
burnished  or  set  by  the  edge-setting  tool.  To  insure  best  results 
the  edge  iron  must  closely  follow  the  shape  and  size  of  the  trimming 
cutter.  It  is  moved  over  the  edge  with  an  oscillating  motion,  de- 
scribing a  part  of  a  circle  as  it  travels  backward  and  forward,  con- 
siderable pressure  being  used,  thus  compressing  the  face  of  the  edge. 
The  iron  should  be  the  shape  of  the  trimmed  edge,  for  if  it  is  too 
convex  only  the  center  of  the  bed  will  be  compressed,  while  if  it  is 
too  flat  only  the  margins  will  be  compressed,  the  center  being  un- 
touched. 

The  iron  has  two  flanges,  or  lips,  one  to  fit  on  either  side  of  the 
sole.  These  are  important,  for  the  tendency  of  the  bed  of  the  edge 
is  to  give  way  before  the  pressure  and  squat  out.  This  is  prevented 
by  the  lips,  since,  being  unable  to  expand,  the  leather  is  compressed, 
thus  bringing  the  fibers  into  a  smaller  space. 

To  compress  an  edge  satisfactorily  it  is  necessary  that  the  bed  of 
the  iron,  as  well  as  the  angle  of  the  inside  and  outside  lips,  agree 
with  the  corresponding  parts  of  the  trimming  cutter.  The  im- 
possibility of  compressing  leather  by  rolling  when  dry  has  already 
been  shown,  and  this  is  equally  true  of  edge  setting.  To  successfully 
set  an  edge,  therefore,  it  should  be  in  suitable  temper.  If  the  leather 
is  too  wet,  it  would  not  stand  against  the  pressure  and  the  edge  would 
be  pushed  out  of  shape.  Pressure  is  absolutely  necessary  since  with- 
out it  no  compression  is  possible.  It  should  be  uniform,  otherwise 
the  compression  will  not  be  uniform.  The  amount  of  pressure  is 
usually  governed  by  the  nature  of  the  leather  and  by  the  skill  and 
strength  of  the  workman.     It  is  advisable,  however,  to  use  as  much 


78  ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

pressure  as  possible  without  pushing  the  edge  out  of  shape.  There 
is  an  advantage  in  this,  as  the  greater  the  pressure  used  the  fewer 
number  of  times  the  heated  tool  will  have  to  pass  over  the  edge. 

Heat  is  of  great  assistance  in  setting  the  edge,  as  however  well  an 
edge  may  be  molded  by  a  cold  iron  it  quickly  loses  its  shape  when 
wet,  while  edges  set  with  a  hot  iron  retain  their  shape  after  pro- 
longed soaking.  This  refers  only  to  such  edges  as  have  been  set  when 
properly  mulled.  Since  it  is  possible,  however,  to  scorch  the  leather, 
the  heat  must  be  regulated.  It  is  an  accepted  principle  of  edge  set- 
ting that  the  more  moisture  leather  has  absorbed  the  less  heat  should 
be  used.  Some  workmen  using  more  pressure  and  skill  may  use  a 
hotter  iron  than  the  flower  workman  who  must  pass  the  iron  over  the 
same  place  many  times.  The  inspector  must  insist  that  the  proper 
size  iron  is  used  at  all  times,  and  should  see  that  the  correct  amount  of 
pressure  has  been  applied  to  uniformly  compress  and  mold  the  edge 
to  a  firm,  hard  surface  without  i^ushing  it  out  of  shape,  and  that  the 
stain  used  is  of  proper  color  and  substance. 

HEEL  FINISHING. 

There  are  two  methods  in  use  for  finishing  heels,  one  requiring  the 
use  of  a  heated  tool,  such  as  the  "  Expedite,"  the  other  using  a  re- 
vohdng  pad,  the  heat  being  supplied  by  the  friction  of  the  pad  on 
the  heel. 

The  principal  feature  of  the  "  Expedite  "  is  a  wheel  comprising  a 
series  of  plates,  each  plate  rounded  on  its  face  and  mounted  on  a 
separate  spring  to  enable  it  to  adapt  itself  to  the  shape  of  the  heel. 
The  plates  are  heated  with  gas.  A  film  of  wax  is  evenly  spread  on  the 
wheel  bv  a  brush  which  automat i call v  moves  across  its  face.  This 
wax  is  transferred  to  the  heel  in  the  required  amounts  when  the  latter 
is  held  against  the  revolving  wheel.  The  advantage  of  this  method 
OA^er  the  friction  method  lies  in  the  fact  that  the  wax  and  stain  may 
be  better  worked  into  the  leather  where  heat  is  used,  also,  since  heat 
is  of  assistance  in  compressing  leather  Avhich  is  in  temper  the  surface 
is  made  harder  and  is  better  filled  and  more  lasting. 

After  being  waxed  by  the  hot  iron  the  heel  is  then  padded  and  any 
lumps  or  excess  of  wax  are  removed  and  the  surface  made  smooth. 
It  is  then  polished  by  being  held  lightly  against  a  bristle  brush.  By 
the  use  of  the  "  Expedite  "  a  harder  wax  may  be  used.  This  adds  to 
the  permanency  of  the  finish.  Soft,  greasy  waxes  show  finger  marks 
and  the  luster  soon  fades. 

By  the  friction  method  the  pad  and  brush  alone  are  used.  The 
pads  used  are  wdieels  made  of  felt,  leather,  rags,  or  bristles.  They 
are,  in  addition,  covered  with  a  drill  which  may  be  removed  when 
worn.  The  method  of  padding  is  to  wax  the  pad  by  holding  against 
it  a  cake  of  wax.  The  heel  is  next  applied  to  the  pad  and  its  sur- 
face soon  becomes  coated. 

The  heel  should  be  covered  with  a  very  thin  film  of  wax.  More 
than  this  is  a  waste,  as  the  excess  must  afterwards  be  removed.  Wax 
must  be  spread  evenly,  leaving  no  lumps. 

The  heel  is  next  held  against  a  brush  wheel  which  gives  it  the 
polish.  The  amount  of  friction  set  up  will  depend  upon  the  elasticity 
of  the  pad  used  and  the  speed  of  the  shaft.  When  the  speed  is  ex- 
cessive the  operator  can  not  use  sufficient  pressure  to  adapt  the  pad 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  79 

to  the  shape  of  the  heel  without  setting  up  so  much  friction  that 
tlie  wax  and  stain  is  removed  from  the  heel,  giving  the  surface  the 
appearance  usually  described  as  "  starved,"  or  the  wax  may  be  burned 
by  the  heat  that  is  generated. 

When  a  heel  is  padded  it  must  afterwards  be  polished  by  remov- 
ing the  excess  of  wax.  This  is  usually  done  on  a  brush  fixed  on  the 
same  shaft  as  the  pad.  One  of  the  most  common  faults  of  padding 
is  the  use  of  an  excess  of  wax.  When  this  happens  to  be  a  very  hard 
wax  it  will  be  difficult  to  soften  and  remove  it  with  a  brush,  conse- 
quently such  heels  do  not  look  as  smooth  as  when  they  left  the 
scourer. 

The  success  of  the  heel-finishing  operation  depends  in  a  large 
measure  on  the  wax  used.  The  wax  which  is  considered  to  have  the 
best  polishing  qualities  is  Canauba.  This  wax  is  very  hard  and  its 
good  qualities  are  sometimes  lessened  when  it  is  mixed  with  a  softer 
wax  of  the  cheaper  grades. 

SCOURING   THE  TOPPIECE. 

The  toppiece  should  now  be  scoured  a  sufficient  amount  to  smooth 
down  the  rough  edges  of  the  slugs,  care  being  taken  that  no  more  of 
the  grain  is  removed  than  is  absolutely  necessary. 

CLEANING  AND  DRESSING. 

It  is  very  evident  that  in  designing  the  Army  shoe  much  thought 
w^as  given  to  the  question  of  appearance,  and  as  the  value  of  the 
shoe  is  often  judged  by  its  appearance  the  inspector  should,  through- 
out the  entire  process  of  construction,  ever  have  this  feature  in 
mind. 

This  office  has  expended  much  effort  among  the  leather  manu- 
facturers in  endeavoring  to  have  delivered  to  contractors  leather 
which  not  only  has  all  the  requirements  of  quality,  but,  in  addition, 
will  possess  a  finish  which  will  be  durable,  offering  a  resistance  to 
wear  and  water,  and  capable  of  taking  a  high  polish. 

Shipments  of  shoes  received  for  final  inspection  on  recent  con- 
tracts plainly  indicated  by  the  slovenly  manner  in  which  the  uppers 
were  cleaned  and  the  carelessness  in  dressing  that  contractors  fail 
to  attach  sufficient  importance  to  the  matter  of  appearance.  This 
condition  was  general,  and  although  a  warning  was  sufficient  to 
bring  about  immediate  improvement  in  most  cases,  in  others  it  was 
found  necessary  to  take  more  effective  steps  before  results  w^ere 
obtained. 

The  construction  of  the  shoe  now  being  complete,  it  should  be 
carefully  treed,  cleaned,  and  dressed  to  remove  the  dirt,  wax,  and 
stain  accumulated  in  the  passage  through  the  works,  and  to  give  to 
it  the  bright,  smart  appearance  of  a  dress  shoe.  The  shoes  should 
be  placed  on  a  tree  foot  and  carefully  cleaned  by  the  dry  method,  no 
acid  or  other  chemicals  being  used.  It  is  not  permitted  to  par- 
tially clean  the  shoes  and  cover  up  the  remainder  with  a  coat  of 
pigment. 

The  shoes  should  next  be  dressed  with  a  colorless  dressing  and 
])olished  with  a  cloth.  The  bottoms  of  the  soles  should  be  cleaned 
without  the  use  of  acid,  and  the  edges  and  heels  brushed. 


80  ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

During  the  passage  of  the  shoe  through  the  works  it  is  inevitable 
that  the  uppers  will  receive  scars,  scratches,  nicks,  and  cuts  more  or 
less  serious  in  their  nature.  In  all  factories  a  department  is  main- 
tained wherein  these  damages  are  repaired  or  camouflaged,  as  the 
case  may  be.  The  inspector  should  give  attention  to  this  depart- 
ment and  prevent  the  repairing  of  any  damage  which  is  of  such  a 
nature  that  the  wear  of  the  upper  will  be  affected  thereby.  Harm- 
less grain  scars  may  be  repaired,  but  it  must  be  done  in  a  thoroughly 
workmanlike  manner  and  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  inspector. 

Before  packing,  the  contractor  should  have  each  shoe  carefully 
examined  on  the  inside  for  tacks,  buckled  insoles,  wrinkled  heel 
seams,  missing  eyelets,  and  torn  throats,  as  any  of  these  faults  will 
cause  the  rejection  of  the  shoes  bv  the  final  insuector. 


Chapter  XII. 
FINAL  INSPECTION. 


Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  every  effort  is  made  by  the  inspectors 
stationed  at  the  factory  wherein  Army  shoes  are  being  made  to  attain 
the  highest  possible  grade  of  product,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  scope  of  their  activities  must  necessarily  have  limits  w^hich 
are  governed,  in  a  measure,  by  conditions  existing  at  each  factory, 
such  as  the  layout  of  the  factory,  the  equipment,  the  nature  of  the 
cooperation  offered  by  the  factory  personnel,  and  the  number  of  shoes 
being  made.  In  view  of  the  number  of  operations  required  to 
construct  a  shoe,  it  is  apparently  irnpossible  to  inspect  every  oper- 
ation on  every  shoe  without  maintaining  a  large  unwieldy  force, 
especialy  where  shoes  are  being  made  in  large  quantities.  It  is 
the  practice  of  factory  inspectors  to  devote  the  greatest  attention 
to  the  character  of  the  material  being  used  and  to  those  Adtal  oper- 
ations upon  which  the  life  of  the  shoe  depends  and  which,  in  the 
finished  product,  are  hidden  from  view.  For  this  reason  it  is  con- 
sidered necessary  before  the  shoes  are  accepted  by  the  Govern- 
ment to  submit  them  to  a  final  inspection  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
covering any  existing  defects  which  may  have  escaped  the  vigilance 
of  the  factory  inspector.  This  inspection  is  made  at  the  supply 
base  by  competent  and  skillful  shoemakers  and  under  ideal  con- 
ditions, every  facility  being  offered  for  the  rapid  and  efficient  per- 
formance of  the  same.  When  it  is  stated  that  in  some  instances 
the  rejections  at  final  inspection  total  as  high  as  10  per  cent,  the 
importance  of  the  work  may  be  appreciated. 

The  system  of  final  inspection  as  installed  at  this  zone  is  the  result 
of  careful  thought  and  knowledge  gained  from  actual  experience. 
Every  possible  precaution  is  taken  not  only  to  prevent  any  shoes 
which  show  inferior  material  or  defective  workmanship  being 
accepted  by  the  Government,  but  also  by  means  of  a  very  efficient 
checking  and  recording  system  to  guard  against  any  loss  either 
through  errors  in  invoices  or  in  goods  actually  received.  Further- 
more, it  is  possible  by  this  same  system  to  trace  any  single  pair  of 
shoes  of  an  invoice  of  many  thousand  pairs  or,  if  desired,  the  name 
of  the  individual  who  accepted  or  rejected  them.  A  careful  record 
is  kept  of  the  number  of  pairs  of  shoes  inspected  each  day  by  each 
individual,  also  the  total  number  of  pairs  accepted  and  the  number 
rejected,  together  with  the  reasons  for  such  rejections.  If  during 
the  course  of  final  inspection  a  tendency  toward  a  lower  standard 
in  any  detail  becomes  apparent,  though  not  sufficient  to  warrant 
rejection,  this  fact  is  immediately  communicated  to  the  manufacturer 
of  the  shoes  in  question,  which  usually  results  in  a  noticeable  improve- 
ment, otherwise  more  effective  measures  are  taken.     In  this  manner 

35285—21 6  81 


82  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

it  is  possible  to  prevent  any  unreasonable  deviation  from  the  high 
standard  which  it  is  aimed  to  maintain.  If  desired  it  is  possible  by 
simply  referring  to  the  records  on  file  at  this  office  to  ascertain  at 
any  time  the  general  character  of  the  product  furnished  in  the  past 
by  any  manufacturer,  the  number  of  shoes  rejected  on  any  given 
invoice,  as  well  as  on  any  contract,  and  also  the  efforts  made  to 
keep  his  product  at  the  required  standard.  This  information  is 
available  in  connection  with  the  awarding  of  future  contracts. 

It  may  be  safely  asserted  that  the  great  care  taken  to  safeguard 
the  Government's  interests  in  this  department  is  fully  warranted 
by  the  results,  and  what  at  first  glance  might  seem  a  somewhat 
elaborate  system  becomes  simple  in  its  operation  and  is  carried  out  by 
a  surprisingly  small  number  of  inspectors,  made  possible  by  the 
adopting  of  ideal  conditions  such  as  a  large,  well-ventilated  work- 
room; perfect  light;  large,  roomy  benches;  an  electrically  operated 
belt  conveyor ;  and  a  power  strapping  and  nailing  machine. 

The  final  inspection  department  is  separated  into  two  distinct 
forces,  inspection  and  clerical,  each  equally  dependent  on  the  other. 

INSPECTION. 

This  force  is  under  the  supervision  of  the  inspector  in  charge  of 
final  inspection,  who  is  in  constant  touch  with  his  men,  advising  them 
whenever  a  question  arises  as  to  the  quality  of  material  or  the 
seriousness  of  any  damage  in  the  construction  of  shoes. 

It  is  essential  that  his  assistants  shall  be  skilled  in  all  branches  of 
the  shoe  industry,  from  the  cutting  and  sorting  rooms  to  the  treeing 
and  packing,  and  be  able  at  all  times  to  detect  any  defect  in  material 
or  construction. 

The  inspector  is  required  to  keep  an  accurate  record  of  sizes, 
widths,  and  number  of  pairs  of  shoes  received,  accepted,  and  re- 
jected by  him  during  the  day,  to  note  the  name  and  location  of  the 
contractor,  the  contract  to  which  they  must  be  applied,  and  make 
a  detailed  report  of  the  same. 

Previous  to  the  installation  of  the  present  system  of  final  inspec- 
tion, it  had  been  the  custom  of  manufacturers  to  ship  shoes  to  this 
base  in  fiber  or  wood  containers  of  various  shapes  and  sizes.  This 
practice,  with  its  resultant  confusion  and  delay,  was  changed  b}^  the 
adoption  of  a  standard  incorporated  in  the  specifications  which  re- 
quired two  sizes  of  wood  packing  cases  and  two  sizes  of  cartons 
for  the  packing  and  shipping  of  each  type  of  Army  shoe. 

Before  assuming  his  duties  with  this  branch  the  final  inspector 
must  be  thoroughly  informed  regarding  the  nature  of  the  work 
which  he  is  to  perform  and  also  should  have  an  intelligent  under- 
standing of  the  importance  of  the  responsibilities  placed  upon  him. 
He  is  instructed  to  carefully  examine  all  shoes  and  reject  any  that  do 
not  complv  with  the  requirements  of  the  specifications  either  in  the 
quality  oi  workmanship  or  material.  It  is  impressed  upon  him 
that  no  excuse  will  be  considered  from  any  inspector  who  accepts  a 
shoe  below  the  standard  required.  Having  been  properly  instructed, 
he  is  assigned  to  work  on  an  inspection  table  with  an  experienced 
man,  where  he  receives  a  further  course  of  instruction  under  the 


AEMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  83 

direction  of  the  inspector  in  charo^e^  and  after  proving  himself 
competent  he  is  then  assigned  to  a  separate  table  and  handed  a  copy 
of  the  following  rules : 

Instructions — Final  Inspectors. 

1.  Use  two  work  sheets,  original  and  duplicate. 

2.  Write  plainly  contractor's  name,  city  or  town,  contract  number  and  si)eci- 
fication  number  on  top  of  sheet,  also  full  name  on  bottom  of  each  sheet,  these 
entries  to  be  made  on  spaces  designated  for  same. 

3.  Take  down  each  case  number  with  size  and  width,  on  both  original  and 
duplicate  sheets. 

4.  See  that  shoes  correspond  in  every  detail  with  stenciling  on  the  packing 
case. 

5.  Any  errors  in  stenciling  should  be  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  in- 
spector in  charge  immediately. 

6.  Total  sheets  after  invoices  are  completed  and  turn  same  over  to  clerk 
after  final  inspection  is  accomplished. 

7.  Report  to  clerk  every  night  the  number  of  shoes  inspected,  the  number 
of  shoes  accepted  and  rejected  that  day. 

8.  All  work  sheets  must  be  accurate  in  every  detail,  with  particular  atten- 
tion given  to  contract  numbers,  sizes,  and  widths  of  shoes,  as  an  error  in  these 
reports  would  often  be  the  cause  of  extra  expense  to  the  Government. 

9.  Shoes  are  to  be  taken  from  cartons  and  examined  in  respect  to  the  fol- 
lowing : 

(a)  Be  sure  that  shoes  taken  from  carton  are  mates  and  of  the  same  size 
and  width  as  stenciled  on  outside  of  case,  and  that  case  contains  exact  number 
called  for  in  that  particular  case. 

(b)  See  that  inside  quarter  markings  are  correct. 

(c)  See  that  outer  sole  markings  are  correct. 

(d)  Examine  heel  seat,  backstay,  and  pull  strap. 

(c)   Examine  outside  edge  of  shoes  from  heel  seat  to  toe. 

(f)  Examine  toe,  turn  shoe  over  and  examine  breast  of  heel  and  bottom 
stock. 

(g)  Examine  Goodyear  stitching,  heel  nails,  and  slugging. 
(h)  Examine  inside  edges  of  shoes  from  toe  to  heel  seat. 

(i)  Put  hands  inside  shoes,  feel  for  tacks,  buckled  insoles,  wrinkled  and 
loose  linings. 

(j)  Bend  quarters  back,  test  tongue,  and  examine  for  broken  throats. 

(k)  Examine  stitching  and  fitting  at  all  times. 

(I)   Stamp  inspector's  name  on  left  quarter  of  each  shoe. 
•  10.  Shoes  are  to  be  rejected  for  the  following  reasons : 

(a)  Inferior  upper  leather,  bottom  stock,  or  tongue  stock. 

(&)   Inferior  fitting. 

(c)  Buckled  inner  soles. 

(d)  Wrinkled  or  loose  linings. 

(e)  Tacks  in  inner  soles  and  heel  seats. 
(/)   Broken  throats. 

(p)  Mismated  or  not  match  mated  tips,  tops,  and  vamps. 

(h)  Eyelets  missing  or  not  properly  spaced. 

(i)  Ears  crooked,  or  ripped  at  the  throat. 

(;)  Inner  soles  broken  at  the  heel  seats. 

(k)  Loose  heels  and  heel  seats. 

(0  Low,  high,  or  soft  counters. 

(m)   Grinning  seams. 

(n)   Short  or  nnrrow  inner,  outer,  and  middle  soles. 

(o)  Extension  of  edges. 

(p)  Improper  breasting  of  heels. 

(q)  Heels  not  up  to  the  required  height. 

11.  The  general  construction  of  shoes  and  the  quality  of  stock  should  be 
noted  at  all  times. 

12.  All  defective  places  on  rejected  shoes  should  be  chalked  showing  the 
cause  of  the  rejection. 

13.  The  inspector  shall  P'  ;^ly  bis  stamp  on  the  inside  of  the  left  quarter 
of  all  accepted  shoes. 


84  AEMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

REJECTED  SHOES. 

Shoes  after  being  rejected  are  sent  by  the  inspector  to  the  reject 
shoe  department,  where  they  are  once  more  examined  by  the  in- 
spector in  charge,  who  notes  the  extent  of  the  damage  or  quality  of 
material  and  then  decides  whether  or  not  they  can  be  repaired  to  the 
satisfaction  of  the  department. 

If  he  so  decides,  a  tag  stating  the  cause  of  rejection  and  giving  per- 
mission to  repair  the  same  is  attached  to  the  shoe,  which  must  still 
bear  the  original  tag  when  returned.  If,  however,  in  the  opinion  of 
the  inspector  in  charge  the  shoe  can  not  be  repaired  in  a  satisfactory 
manner,  the  trefoil  stamp  is  placed  upon  it,  denoting  final  rejection. 

At  stated  intervals  the  shoe  branch  forwards  a  release  for  the 
number  of  pairs  of  rejected  shoes  held  by  the  reject  shoe  department. 
On  receipt  of  this  release  these  shoes  are  packed  and  turned  over  to 
the  shipping  branch,  to  be  returned  to  the  contractors. 

The  release,  stating  the  number  of  pairs  and  the  contract  to  which 
they  apply,  is  indorsed  and  returned,  a  copy  being  retained  by  the 
reject  department  for  future  reference. 

EQUIPMENT. 

The  equipment  for  inspection  in  this  department  and  the  facilities 
for  handling  the  shoes  are  most  complete.  Each  inspector  has  a 
laborer  to  assist  in  opening  the  wooden  cases  and  stamping  all  ac- 
cepted shoes. 

One  packer  will  handle  the  daily  out])ut  of  two  inspectors.  Each 
inspector  has  a  separate  table  upon  which  the  shoes  are  placed  for 
inspection  after  being  taken  from  the  wooden  cases. 

The  shoes  are  rigidly  inspected  in  single  pairs,  and  if  accepted  are 
passed  to  the  assistant,  who  applies  the  acceptance  stamp,  repacks  the 
shoes  in  the  cartons,  and  then  passes  them  to  the  bench  of  the  packer. 
The  packer  must  repair  any  damage  to  the  wooden  cases,  repack  the 
shoes,  tack  on  the  covers,  and  after  stenciling  his  name  and  the  date 
of  the  operation  he  places  the  case  on  a  power  conveyor,  which  carries 
it  to  a  wire-strapping  machine. 

Here  the  case  is  received  by  two  men  and,  with  the  aid  of  the 
machine,  a  Avire  band  is  securely  fastened  around  the  cover  and  bot- 
tom at  each  end.  It  is  then  passed  on  by  conveyor  to  a  machine 
where  the  cover  and  strapping  are  firmly  attached  to  the  case,  after 
which  it  is  turned  over  to  the  Warehousing  Division. 

CLERICAL  FORCE. 

The  duties  of  this  force  begin  when  shoes  arrive  from  the  differ- 
ent contractors.  Before  any  work  is  distributed  to  the  inspectors  all 
cases  are  checked  on  a  receiving  sheet,  stating  the  box  numbers,  num- 
ber of  pairs  in  each  box,  the  sizes  and  widths,  and  the  contract  on 
which  they  applv. 

This  receiA'ing  sheet  is  checked  against  the  shipping  memorandum 
received  from  the  contractor,  and  if  any  errors,  such  as  wrong  con- 
tract numbers,  cases  missing  in  the  invoice,  or  cases  improperly 
stenciled,  are  discovered,  the  contractor  is  immediately  notified  and 
the  error  corrected  before  the  shoes  are  inspected. 


ARMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS.  85 

After  the  inspection  of  each  invoice  is  completed  the  inspector 
turns  liis  work  sheet  over  to  a  clerk  whose  duties  are  to  check  up 
said  sheets  and  make  an  analysis  of  each  invoice  on  cards  provided 
for  that  purpose.  A  cop}'  of  said  analysis  card  is  forwarded  to 
Distribution  Division,  and  all  invoices  forwarded  from  the  Finance 
Branch  are  compared  therewith. 

ADVISABILITY  OF  DEPOT  INSPECTION. 

Tlie  question  of  whether  or  not  the  actual  final  inspection  should 
be  made  at  the  factor}-  of  the  contractor  or  at  some  other  place 
outside  and  beyond  the  control  of  the  contractor  has  been  the  sub- 
ject of  nuich  discussion.  Instances  have  arisen  from  time  to  time 
which  have  confirmed  the  opinion  which  the  writer  has  held  for  a 
long  time — that  the  final  inspection  of  shoes  at  the  factories  of  the 
contractors  where  made  is  injudicious  from  more  than  one  point  of 
view. 

In  the  first  place,  it  is  thought  that  depot  inspection  tends  to 
remove  the  inspector  from  any  conscious  or  unconsicious  factory 
influence  with  Avhich  he  might  have  to  contend,  and  which  is  capable 
of  influencing  even  the  most  careful  and  honest  men  to  some  extent, 
thus  causing  a  falling  off  in  the  qiialit}'  of  the  finished  product. 

In  the  (jovernment  receiving  depot  an  inspector  works  perhaps  on 
goods  from  one  factory  in  the  morning  and  on  those  from  another 
factory  in  the  afternoon,  in  the  course  of  a  week  having  an  oppor- 
tunity to  handle  the  product  of  ever}-  factory  shipping  to  the  Army 
Base.  Not  only  is  the  inspector  under  this  arrangement  not  granted 
an  opportunity  for  prejudice  favorable  or  otherwise  toAvard  any  con- 
tractor, but  the  contractor  is  removed  from  the  danger  of  the  impres- 
sion that  the  inspection  at  any  one  factory  is  more  stringent  than 
at  some  other.  The  mental  advantage  upon  the  inspector,  too,  is 
apparent.  The  products  of  each  factory  differ  in  some  respect  from 
those  of  others,  some  being  especially  commendable  or  perhaps  espe- 
cially w^orthy  of  unfavorable  criticism  in  one  respect,  some  in  another. 
As  a  result  of  the  comparisons  made  between  these  the  inspector 
unconsciously,  but  none  the  less  effectively,  standardizes  his  work. 

A  survey  of  the  records  and  reports  from  some  factories  under 
factory  inspection  has  shown  as  high  as  80,000  pairs  of  shoes  Avith, 
no  rejections,  an  acme  of  perfection  in  shoemaking  which  the  Quar- 
termaster General  had  not  hoped  to  see  reached.  Furthermore,  be- 
fore adoption  of  the  depot  form  of  final  inspection  a  series  of  tests 
in  the  nature  of  reinspection  was  made,  the  results  clearly  demon- 
strating that  the  quality  of  shoes  accepted  under  factory  inspection 
was  much  inferior  to  those  accepted  under  depot  inspection. 


Chapter  XIII. 
PRODUCTION. 


^  RATE  OF  PRODUCTION. 

The  first  factor  which  influences  the  rate  of  production  is  the 
tariff.  A  standard  tariff  should  be  uninterruptedly  maintained 
throughout  the  contract.  As  has  been  stated,  any  change  of  tariff 
affecting  contracts  in  the  process  of  production  results  in  confusion 
and  in  varying  periods  of  suspension.  Since  the  latter  condition, 
as  well  as  the  additional  supply  of  patterns,  dies,  and  possibly  mate- 
rial, is  a  source  of  expense  to  the  contractor,  it  has  a  tendency  to 
cause  resentment  on  his  part  and  to  disturb  the  customary  harmony 
which  should  prevail  between  the  Government  and  the  contractor. 
With  such  an  atmosphere  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  100  per  cent 
efficiency  of  production,  and  a  period  of  four  to  six  weeks  is  required 
for  the  restoration  of  normal  conditions.  Under  no  circumstances 
should  the  tariff  on  contracts  in  the  process  of  production  be  altered 
since  it  not  only  involves  the  needless  expenditure  of  an  adjustment 
with  the  contractor,  but  causes  a  delay  in  deliveries  which  is  not  after- 
wards overcome. 

The  proper  method  of  meeting  a  shortage  on  any  given  sizes  and 
widths  is  by  the  issuance  of  additional  contracts,  leaving  existing 
contracts  undisturbed.  This  avoids  the  period  of  absolute  suspen- 
sion of  operations,  resulting  in  expense  to  contractor  and  Govern- 
ment alike,  and  causing  that  attitude  of  resentment  on  the  part  of  the 
contractor  which  results  in  less  efficient  production  for  some  time 
following.  It  is  evident  from  past  experiences  that  the  shoes  manu- 
factured under  the  former  tariff  wall  eventually  be  used  and  thus 
time  will  be  saved  on  some  future  order. 

The  second  factor  which  influences  the  production  is  the  amount 
of  material  available  for  constructing  the  shoes  called  for  by  the 
specifications.  It  is  again  stated  that  the  importance  from  a  pro- 
duction standpoint  of  a  sufficient  notice  of  anticipated  contracts  to 
the  producers  of  leather  and  shoe  findings  can  not  be  overemphasized. 
Occasions  have  arisen  where  material  called  for  in  specifications  was 
unobtainable  in  the  market,  necessitating  a  change  of  specifications. 
Any  shortage  of  material  retards  production,  whether  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  contract  or  after  operations  are  well  along. 

The  third  factor  which  influences  production  is  the  supply  of 
lasts.  An  adequate  supply  of  lasts  should  be  available  at  the  con- 
tractor's factory  sufficiently  early  to  assure  no  delay  from  this  source 
either  in  commencing  operations  or  when  striving  to  meet  the  maxi- 
mum daily  production.  When  the  contracts  are  awarded  a  resume 
must  be  immediately  taken  of  the  number  of  lasts  by  sizes  and  widths 

86 


ARMY   SHOES  AND   SHOE   LASTS.  87 

in  the  zone,  the  number  required  for  the  newly  awarded  contracts, 
and  the  number  available  for  meeting  the  requirements.  If  the  num- 
ber available  is  insufficient,  arrant^ements  should  be  made  for  transfer 
from  other  zones.  If  this  is  impractical,  purchase  must  be  made 
from  last  manufacturers.  Whether  the  supply  is  to  be  augmented 
by  transfer  or  by  purchase,  30  days  must  be  allowed  for  delivery. 

The  fourth  factor  influencing  the  rate  of  production  is  the  factory 
capacity  of  the  contractor.  Probably  the  greatest  difficulty  with 
which  the  Production  Branch  has  to  contend  is  the  case  of  the  con- 
tractor whose  factory  facilities  are  absolutely  inadequate  for  meet- 
ing production  as  specified  in  the  terms  of  the  contract,  or  where 
contracts  have  been  awarded  to  manufacturers  already  hopelessly  de- 
linquent on  previous  contracts.  During  the  emergency  there  were 
very  few  instances  of  deliveries  being  made  on  schedule,  and  in  some 
cases  it  was  only  through  the  most  strenuous  efforts  on  the  part  of 
the  Production  Branch  that  the  deliveries  as  made  were  obtained. 

Aside  from  the  inadequacy  of  factory  facilities,  it  is  admitted  that 
me  shortage  of  labor  was  great,  but  it  is  felt  that  in  many  instances 
commercial  work  was  allowed  to  interfere  with  Government  work. 
In  case  of  a  similiar  emergency  the  writer  would  suggest  that  steps 
be  taken  to  give  Government  work  preference  over  civilian.  In  order 
to  accomplish  this  it  is  first  absolutelv  necessary  that  the  Govern- 
ment have  at  hand  an  estimate  of  the  daily  capacity  of  the  con- 
tractor; second,  that  the  quantity  of  outstanding  civilian  orders  be 
known;  and  third,  that  the  Government  be  kept  informed  of  the 
acceptance  of  any  additional  civilian  orders.  This  consideration  of 
the  capacity  of  the  contractor  will  do  away  with  the  possibility  of 
unjust  criticism  of  the  Production  Branch,  which  is  unable  to  compel 
a  contractor  to  produce  in  excess  of  his  capacity. 

Since  the  signing  of  the  armistice  the  matter  of  delinquencies  has 
not  improved  to  the  extent  hoped  for,  but  this  in  a  way  has  been 
due  to  the  general  atmosphere  of  unrest  and  unsettled  market  con- 
ditions. Manufacturers  must  be  made  to  understand  that  the  terms 
of  a  contract  must  be  lived  up  to,  and  unless  deliveries  as  specified 
are  made  at  the  time  designated  the  requisitions  of  the  Army  can  not 
be  met. 

Upon  the  efficiency  of  the  inspection  organization  the  Government 
must  depend  for  the  quality  of  the  delivered  shoes  as  well  as  for  in- 
formation as  to  production  statistics.  It  is  important,  therefore, 
that  this  consist  of  a  group  of  well-trained  men  working  under 
competent  supervision.  In  order  to  render  the  position  of  inspector 
sufficiently  attractive  to  be  filled  by  the  type  of  man  desired  it  is 
necessary  that  the  position  should  be  an  all-year  one,  as  the  salary 
allowed  is  insufficient  to  permit  the  inspector  to  loaf  any  material 
part  of  the  year.  This  could  be  accomplished  if  the  number  of  shoes 
to  be  made  each  year  was  distributed  over  the  12  months  in  nearly 
equal  allotments. 

Finally,  it  may  be  said  that  it  is  important  that  the  daily  construc- 
tion and  delivery  of  shoes  be  in  proportion  to  the  size  and  width 
distribution  of  the  tariff.  From  the  simple  fact  that  shoes  are  or- 
dered in  accordance  with  a  standard  tariff  and  certain  deliveries 
specified,  it  is  a  proper  assumption  that  deliveries  should  be  maxle 
in  proportion  to  the  sizes  and  widths  specified  in  the  tariff,  otherwise 


88  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

a  contractor  might  make  all  the  small  sizes  and  widths  first  or  last^ 
resulting  in  drastic  shortages  for  meeting  requisitions. 

During  the  emergency  this  situation  arose  many  times,  and  finally 
a  systeni  was  devised  for  its  correction  which  consisted  of  submitting 
to  certain  contractors  a  master  chart  showing  the  number  of  shoes 
by  sizes  desired  put  in  on  factory  sheets  each  day,  and  six  charts  (one 
for  each  width)  showing  the  number  by  size  on  each  width,  sufficient 
lasts  only  being  issued  to  insure  the  work  being  put  in  as  requested. 
After  this  system  had  been  installed  for  approximately  five  months^ 
it  was  found  that  difficulties  from  this  cause  had  been  practically 
eliminated. 

This  system  is  worked  out  on  a  100,000  basis,  it  being  a  simple 
matter  to  apply  it  to  any  smaller  or  larger  contract.  In  case  of  a 
50,000  contract  the  quantities  are  divided  in  two.  It  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  all  work  is  put  in  on  a  basis  of  24  pairs  of  one  size  and 
width  to  a  case,  consequently  to  equalize  the  work  it  might  be  neces- 
sary to  make  24  pairs  of  a  given  unit  every  second,  third,  or  fourth/ 
day  in  order  to  insure  deliveries  someAvhere  near  in  proportion  to  the 
standard  tariff. 

Since 'the  system  formerly  employed  in  recording  deliveries  of 
shoes  against  the  proper  contract  according  to  sizes  and  widths  was 
inadequate,  a  system  was  devised  which  would  not  only  provide  for 
the  recording  of  each  pair  of  shoes  by  size  and  width  against  the 
IDroper  contract,  but  which  would  show  the  date  of  anticipated  de- 
liveries. The  recording  of  both  the  above  facts  is  of  primary  im- 
portance not  only  for  the  purpose  of  having  a  knowledge  by  sizes 
and  widths  of  the  shoes  delivered  but  as  a  means  of  estimating  the 
quantity  which  is  due  at  any  particular  date. 

In  preparing  a  set  of  sheets  for  recording  the  deliveries  of  shoes. 
the  following  has  been  the  method  made  use  of,  and  found  most 
effective,  by  the  Boston  zone : 

First.  When  a  contract  consists  of  more  than  one  award  a  set  of  delivery 
sheets  must  be  made  out  for  each. 

Second-'  Deliveries  are  posted  according  to  contract  price. 

Third:  A  separate  sheet  is  allowed  for  each  width  and  is  divided  off  length- 
wise into  the  run  of  sizes  called  for  in  the  tariff,  while  down  the  side  of  the 
sheet  appear  the  dates  by  weeks  of  the  deliveries  to  be  made. 

Fourth:  Red  figures  show  the  shoes  due  at  the  different  periods  and  black 
figures  the  deliveries  made.  Under  these  circumstances  it  is  possible  to  obtain 
in  a  very  short  space  of  time  the  number  of  shoes  due  on  all  contracts  on  any 
size  and  width,  any  overdeliverj-  is  at  once  apparent,  and,  when  recorded, 
should  be  preceded  by  the  symbol  ( — ). 

OVERPAYMENT. 

The  contract  price  for  each  size  and  width  of  shoes  on  the  same 
award  is  uniform,  with  the  understanding  that  shoes  are  to  be  appor- 
tioned according  to  the  tariff  provided.  If  the  average  size  deliv- 
ered, however,  is  smaller  than  the  average  size  which  should  have 
been  delivered  the  Government  has  suffered  a  loss,  and  the  contractor 
is  obliged  to  refund  his  overpayment. 

Upon  completion  of  a  contract  a  resume  of  deliveries  per  size  and 
width  is  compiled,  and  from  this  the  average  size  and  width  of  the 
entire  delivery  is  computed.  In  figuring  the  average  size  due  or 
delivered  on  a  contract  the  number  of  pairs  on  each  size  is  multiplied 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  89 

by  that  size,  and  the  results  thus  obtained  are  added.     This  grand 
total  is  then  divided  by  the  total  contract  delivery. 

In  the  case  of  an  overpayment  the  average  size  delivered,  sub- 
tracted from  the  average  size  due  and  divided  by  the  average  size 
due,  is  multiplied  by  the  price  per  pair,  giving  the  overpayment  on 
each  pair  delivered.  This  overpayment,  multiplied  by  the  total 
deliveries,  gives  the  total  overpayment  on  the  contract. 

Formula   for  Estimating  Overpayment  on   Sizes. 

1.  Multiply  the  deliveries  actually  made  on  each  size  by  that  size. 

2.  The  sum  of  these  products  =  x. 

3.  X  divided  by  the  total  actual  deliveries  =  the  average  size  actually  deliv- 
ered. 

4.  The  avera,2:e  size  due  less  the  average  size  delivered  =  "  the  difference." 

5.  "  The  difference  "  divided  by  the  average  size  due  —  the  percentage  of  over- 
payment. 

6.  The  percentage  of  overpayment  multiplied  by  the  contract  price  per  pair  = 
the  overpayment  per  pair. 

7.  The  oveiiiayment  per  pair  multiplied  by  the  total  actual  contract  delivery  = 
the  total  overpayment  on  sizes. 

N.  B. — In  case  of  the  average  size  due  being  less  than  the  average  sze  de- 
livered the  former  is  subtracted,  showing  an  underpayment. 

The  overpayment  on  the  average  width  is  computed  in  a  similar 
manner  excepting  that  each  width  must  be  represented  by  a  number. 
If  the  tariff  runs  from  A  to  EE,  the  following  scale  should  be  used: 
A  1,B2,  C3,  D4,  E  5,  EE  6. 

Formula  for  Estimating  Overpayment  on  Widths. 

1.  Multiply  the  total  actual  deliveries  on  each  width  by  the  number  represent- 
ing that  width.  (Deliveries  on  A  width  should  be  multiplied  by  1,  on  B  width 
by  2,  and  so  on.) 

2.  The  sum  of  the  products  thus  obtained  divided  by  the  total  contract  de- 
livery=the   average   width   actually   delivered. 

3.  The  average  width  due  less  tlie  average  width  actually  delivered="  The 
difference." 

4.  "  The  difference  "  divided  by  the  average  width  due=the  percentage  of 
overpayment. 

5.  The  percentage  of  overpayment  nmltiplied  by  the  contract  price  per  pair= 
the  overpayment  per  pair. 

6.  The  overpayment  per  pair  multiplied  by  the  total  actual  contract  de- 
livery =  the  total  overpayment  on  widths. 

N.  B. — In  case  of  the  average  width  due  being  less  than  the  average  width 
delivered  the  former  is  subtracted,  showing  an  underpayment. 

DELINQUENCIES. 

In  recording  the  delivery  of  shoes  against  the  time  alloted  it 
has  been  found  that  the  best  results  are  obtained  by  using  the  last- 
ing reports  submitted  by  the  Government  inspector  each  day.  This 
report  is  made  up  by  the  inspector  in  charge  at  the  contractor's  plant 
and  is  based  on  the  actual  number  of  shoes  lasted  each  day.  As  the 
average  length  of  time  consumed  in  completing  and  delivering  Army 
shoes  after  the  lasting  operation  is  seven  days,  it  is  possible  to  ascer- 
tain what  the  delivery  on  each  contract  will  be  one  week  in  advance. 
Should  circumstances  warrant  it,  the  lasting  records  could  be 
rendered  in  detail  to  show  the  number  of  shoes  lasted  per  size  and 
width,  but  it  is  believed  that  this  is  unnecessary  at  the  present  time. 


'90  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

GoverixVient  shoe  contracts  stipulate  that  deliveries  shall  be  com- 
pleted on  a  certain  date,  and  contain  the  proviso  that  the  contractor 
shall  reimburse  the  Government  for  any  expense  caused  by  delin- 
quent deliveries  for  which  he  is  responsible.  In  several  instances 
the  Government  has  found  it  necessary  to  hold  up  production,  in 
which  case  it  would  be  unjust  that  the  contractor  should  be  fined  for 
the  delay  incurred.  In  many  more  instances,  however,  the  con- 
tractor has  been  found  at  fault  in  postponing  the  beginning  of  op- 
sfirations  through  failure  to  provide  for  material  required. 

In  requesting  additional  time  for  the  delivery  of  shoes  the  con- 
tractor must  state  in  detail  the  reason  for  such  request,  and  furnish 
any  data  bearing  upon  the  matter. 

The  expense  incurred  by  the  Government  through  delinquent  de- 
liveries consists  of  the  salary  and  per  diem  expense  of  maintaining 
each  inspector  at  the  factory  beyond  the  expiration  of  the  final 
delivery  date.  If  a  manufacturer  is  awarded  contracts  the  delivery 
dates  of  which  follow  each  other  in  close  succession  he  can  not  incur 
a  delinquency  expense,  since  the  inspection  force  must  be  retained 
at  his  factory  to  care  for  the  future  contracts. 

In  figuring  a  delinquency  charge  it  must  be  assumed  that  the  in- 
spection should  be  completed  in  every  department  of  the  factory 
previous  to  the  completion  date.  With  this  in  mind  it  is  a  simple 
matter  to  compute  the  number  of  days  between  the  date  that  the 
inspectors  in  the  several  departments  of  a  factory  should  have  com- 
pleted their  duties  and  the  date  when  they  were  recalled  to  the  zone 
supply  office. 


Chapter  XIV. 

MANUFACTURE  OF  UNITED  STATES  ARMY  MUNSON  SHOE 

LASTS. 


One  of  the  most  important  factors  governing  the  manufacture  of 
shoes  is  the  question  of  shoe  lasts.  At  the  time  of  the  declaration 
of  war  the  Government  owned  approximately  75,000  pairs  of  Mun- 
son  shoe  lasts.  This  supply,  hoAvever,  being  entirely  inadequate  for 
manufacturing  the  several  millions  of  pairs  of  shoes  contemplated, 
large  contracts  for  the  manufacture  of  lasts  Avere  awarded  to  various 
last  makers  throughout  the  country. 

MODELS. 

Previous  to  the  awarding  of  any  large  contracts  the  Government 
furnished  last  manufacturers  an  8  C  Army  last  model,  sometimes 
referred  to  as  the  "  Old  St.  Louis  Model."  When  new  lasts  were 
required,  this  model  was  sent  to  the  firms  to  whom  the  contracts  for 
the  manufacture  of  lasts  had  been  awarded,  and  all  sizes  and  widths 
were  graded  from  this  one  model.  Accompanying  said  model  was  a 
specification  sheet  covering  the  measurements  and  construction  of 
lasts.  Various  manufacturers  made  copies  of  this  model  from  time 
to  time,  until  eventually  several  models  of  apparently  different  types 
were  in  common  use,  varying  in  measurements,  construction,  and 
appearance  to  the  extent  that  further  use  of  the  same  could  not  be 
allowed  if  the  finished  shoes  were  to  be  uniform  in  appearance  and 
measurement. 

On  or  about  June  1,  1917,  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  abolish  the 
use  of  these  plural  models  by  adopting  one  standard  model.  Realiz- 
ing the  prior  trouble  experienced  from  grading  all  sizes  and  widths 
from  one  size  and  width,  and  desiring  to  prevent  any  variation  from 
the  standard  adopted^  it  was  decided  to  make  a  model  for  each 
respective  width  on  size  8.  These  models  were  made  by  the  United 
Last  Co.,  and  approved  and  accepted  by  the  War  Department.  This 
model  was  called  the  new  1154.  The  new  model  was  made  more 
woody  overhead  throughout  and  on  the  big  toe  joint  just  under  the 
inside  ball.  '^The  stick  length  remained  the  same  as  the  old  model, 
five-eighths  extension  on  all  sizes.  A  slight  change  was  also  made 
in  the  sole  pattern. 

Having  adopted  a  new  model,  all  the  old  models  should  have 
been  called  in  and  destroyed,  but  this,  however,  was  not  imme- 
diately done,  practically  all  the  last  manufacturers  retaining  their 
old  models,  with  the  result  that  when  new  contracts  were  given  out 
several  manufacturers,  to  save  the  time  and  expense  of  drafting 
and  grading  new  models,  continued  to  use  the  old  models,  ignoring 

91 


92  ARMY   SHOES   AXD   SHOE   LASTS. 

the  new  ones,  and  thousands  of  pairs  of  lasts  continued  to  be  made 
on  the  old  models. 

This  state  of  affairs,  caused  solely  by  the  association  of  so  many 
foreign  models,  all  of  Avhich  were  descendants  of  the  old  model, 
became  of  a  serious  nature.  After  carefully  considerin^r  the  entire 
situation  and  studying  conditions  as  they  actually  existed  it  became 
apparent  that  some  decisive  and  immediate  action  would  have  to 
be  taken,  since  if  existing  conditions  Avere  alloAved  to  continue  and 
shoes  were  still  made  on  mismated  lasts  trouble  would  be  sure  to-^ 
follow,  it  being  apparent  that  there  were  two  distinct  models  with 
many  deviations  from  the  original  and  varying  from  a  half  to  a 
size  and  one-half,  with  stvles  noticeablv  different,  all  workino:  to- 
gether.  The  greatest  variation  in  measurements  in  most  instances 
was  due  to  the  fact  that  lasts  made  on  the  old  model  were  slim  and 
in  some  cases  had  shrunk  as  much  as  three- fourths  of  a  size.  If 
a  manufacturer,  in  making  and  grading  his  turning  model,  should 
get  the  waist  point  down  from  the  true  waist  point,  a  slight  slimness 
would  result.  Having  these  conditions  in  mind  it  was  decided  to 
sort  and  remeasure  all  lasts  and  discard  those  which  did  not  measure 
in  accordance  with  the  specifications  for  the  new  1154. 

In  April,  1918,  a  new  last.  Specification  1808,  Munson  metallic 
last,  was  made  for  use  in  construction  of  the  metallic  fastened  shoe. 
The  model  last  was  made  a  little  larger  throughout,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  heel  measurements,  being  approximately  one-half 
size  larger  than  the  1154.  The  extension  was  seven-eighths  on  all 
sizes. 

In  the  past  it  was  customary  for  last  manufacturers  to  order  their 
models  without  any  notification  to  this  office,  conse(|uently  in  no 
instance  were  master  models,  prior  to  their  receipt  by  the  last 
manufacturer  ordering  them,  inspected  by  Government  inspectors. 
Although  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  any  contractor  would  pro- 
ceed to  manufacture  lasts  under  his  contract  without  first  ha^dng 
minutely  measured  the  master  models,  this  has  happened  from  time 
to  time.  Under  the  provisions  of  past  awards  for  the  making  of 
lasts  it  was  not  deemed  necessarv  or  advisable  to  assume  the  re- 
sponsibility  of  ascertaining  for  the  manufacturer  whether  or  not 
his  master  models  were  perfect.  This  opinion  was  governed  to 
some  extent  by  the  fact  that  several  manufacturers  ke])t  tlieir  models 
under  different  circumstances,  and  the  inspection  and  measurement 
should  at  all  times  be  made  at  the  place  where  the  models  were 
ordinarily  kept  by  the  particular  manufacturer.  It  was  customar3\ 
however,  to  inspect  the  models  from  time  to  time  at  the  factories 
of  the  contractors  where  a  slimness  or  other  defect  was  discovered 
during  the  process  of  manufacture,  and  in  several  instances  where 
differences  were  discovered  in  the  models  an  investigation  disclosed 
that  they  had  been  kept  near  open  windows  or  exposed  to  varying 
Aveather  conditions,  and  that  upon  subjecting  the  models  to  con- 
ditions under  which  they  ought  to  have  been  kept  the  measurements 
would  prove  correct. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  Avriter  that  in  the  future  all  zone  supj^ly 
offices  having  charge  of  the  production  of  lasts  should  be  supplied 
with  standard  models  on  all  widths  made  by  one  reliable  last  con- 
cern.    These  models  should  be  made  in  full  sets,  entirely  finished^ 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  93 

-and  ready  to  turn  from.    By  so  doing  absolutely  no  variation  could 
^xist  and  each  last  would  be  sure  to  measure  correctly. 

When  a  contract  is  awarded  the  model  lasts  should  be  measured  and 
inspected  at  the  depot,  after  which  they  should  be  forwarded  to  the 
manufacturer  in  question  and  should  be  kept  at  his  factory  for  a 
reasonable  length  of  time  prior  to  using  to  insure  their  return  to 
original  measurements  in  case  of  exposure  to  dampness  or  extreme 
heat.  After  the  contracts  are  finished  all  models  and  patterns  should 
be  returned  to  the  Government  to  be  held  for  future  use. 

BLOCKS. 

The  curing  and  preparing  of  last  blocks  is  a  science  in  itself.  If 
the  blocks  are  not  properly  prepared  prior  to  their  manufacture  into 
lasts  more  or  less  trouble  is  sure  to  be  encountered. 

Ordinarily  a  block  cut  in  August  of  one  year,  if  properly  cured, 
would  be  ready  for  delivery  in  November  of  the  year  following,  tak- 
ing approximately  15  months  from  the  time  of  the  cutting  of  the 
wood  until  the  delivery  to  last  manufacturers.  At  this  time,  how- 
ever, there  is  what  is  termed  ''  a  new  process,"  wherein  blocks  cut  in 
Aumist  are  readv  for  deliverv  the  following  Februarv  or  March. 
This  latter  method,  however,  is  in  an  expermiental  stage  and  was  not 
used  during  the  period  of  the  war. 

At  the  time  the  (xovernment  first  required  lasts  in  large  numbers 
it  was  discovered  that  there  was  a  shortage  of  blocks,  occasioned  by 
the  fact  that  conditions  existing  on  and  after  August,  1914,  resulted 
in  the  block  manufacturers  arriving  at  the  conclusion  that  there 
would  not  be  as  many  calls  for  new  styles  for  commercial  use  as 
usually  and  consequently  reducing  the  output  of  last  blocks,  causing 
a  shortage  Avhich  was  afterwards  overcome  to  some  extent  bv  the  use 
of  blocks  not  fully  cured  and  referred  to  as  "  green  blocks." 

A  (jovernment  contract  having  been  placed  with  a  last  manu- 
facturer Avorking  on  commercial  orders  raised  the  question  as  to 
whether  the  contractor  would  use  the  best  grade  blocks  for  Govern- 
ment orders  or  for  commercial  orders,  with  the  result  that  in  some 
instances  the  Government  received  the  so-called  "  green  blocks,"  the 
same  being  evident  from  the  finished  product,  not  being  noticed, 
however,  until  some  period  of  time  had  elapsed  after  the  manufacture 
thereof. 

Tender  ordinary  conditions,  particularly  where  an  ideal  type  of  last 
is  required,  after  the  blocks  are  received  at  the  factory  of  the  manu- 
facturer they  should  be  kept  there  for  a  period  of  30  days  imder  con- 
ditions approximating  those  under  which  the  block  will  be  turned 
into  a  last,  in  order  that  the  block  may  become  tempered  to  the  aver- 
age atmospherical  conditions  existing  at  that  i)ai'ticular  plant. 

No  last  block  shoidd  be  used  that  contains  more  than  5  per  cent  of 
moisture.  It  has  been  scientifically  ascertained  that  a  last  will,  when 
exposed  to  heat  and  dampness,  eventually  reach  the  stage  where  it 
Avill  contain  but  5  per  cent  moisture,  and  if  lasts  are  turned  from 
blocks  containing  a  greater  per  cent,  say  T  or  8,  the  lasts  being  turned 
strictly  in  accordance  with  the  measurements  as  set  out  in  the  specifi- 
cations, they  w^ill,  w^hen  exposed  to  the  elements,  swell  and  shrink, 
but  will  eventually  shrink  until  they  contain  but  5  per  cent  moisture, 


94  AKMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

thereby  causing  the  lasts  to  be  smaller  in  measurement  than  the 
standard.  Too  great  a  stress  can  not  be  laid  upon  this  particular 
point,  and  it  is  a  question  which  caused  a  great  amount  of  trouble  and 
annoyance  during  the  entire  period  of  manufacturing  lasts  in  large 
quantities.  After  lasts  had  been  used  for  a  period  of  10  to  12  months, 
we  were  continually  finding  that  they  had  shrunk  to  measurements 
much  smaller  than  the  standard  less  the  permissible  variation. 

Upon  investigating  conditions  at  the  factories  of  several  manufac- 
turers it  was  discovered  that  they  were  receiving  their  blocks  in  car- 
load lots  and  were  moving  them  from  the  car  to  the  turning  ma- 
chmes  without  allowing  the  same  to  lay  in  the  factory  sufficiently 
long  to  become  tempered.  There  can  be  no  question  that  lasts  made 
under  such  conditions  will  eventually  shrink  to  a  greater  extent  than 
allowed  under  the  permissible  variations. 

Each  zone  supply  office  should  have  a  device  for  ascertaining  the 
moisture  contained  in  any  given  block,  permitting  the  testing  of 
blocks  from  time  to  time  during  the  performance  of  any  future  con- 
tracts, and  it  might  be  added  that  if  such  an  instrument  had  been 
available  during  the  years  1917  and  1918  thousands  of  dollars  might 
have  been  saved  to  the  Government. 

Tliere  are  several  ways  of  testing  out  blocks,  but  the  most  accurate 
and  thorough  method  known  to  date  is  by  a  delicate  weighing  and 
elex3tric  heating  device.  Two  or  three  blocks  are  selected,  from  the 
middle  of  which  two  or  three  small  lengthwise  strips  are  sawed. 
These  are  weighed  and  put  inside  the  electric  heating  device,  where 
they  are  subjected  to  a  temperature  of  220°  F.  and  then  weighed 
again.  The  difference  between  the  first  and  second  weighings  equals 
the  weight  of  the  moisture.  This  divided  by  the  original  weight  gives 
the  percentage  of  moisture. 

Models  should  be  carefully  checked  up  and  should  measure  per- 
fect in  every  detail.  If  measurements  are  found  correct  as  per  speci- 
fications they  are  ready  to  go  to  the  turners  and  are  then  placed  in 
the  lathes.  At  present  we  have  models  only  on  size  8  for  all  widths, 
and  all  sizes  are  graded  from  each  respective  model.  If  turning 
models  were  furnished  on  sizes  5,  7,  9,  and  11  on  all  widths  a  greater 
degree  of  accuracy  would  be  maintained  than  at  present,  because  of 
the  fact  that  lathes  will  not  hold  their  grade  so  accurately  when  run- 
ning four  or  five  sizes  either  side  of  the  model,  whereas  if  sizes  5, 
5-|,  6,  and  6^  were  turned  from  a  size  5  model  and  7,  7^,  8,  and  8^ 
were  turned  from  a  7  model,  and  so  on  up,  no  deviations  from  the 
true  model  could  possibly  exist  providing  the  operator  used  due  care 
in  adjusting  his  machine.  In  placing  models  in  the  lathes  great  care 
should  be  taken  that  they  are  located  properly  and  on  exact  centers. 
Lathes  should  be  carefully  gone  over  and  any  part  or  parts  show- 
ing excessive  wear  should  be  repaired  before  being  used.  With 
lathes  properly  adjusted,  instructions  should  be  given  the  con- 
tractors that  lathe  operators  must  watch  their  work  carefully  and 
must  not  run  lathes  at  high  speeds  This  oftentimes  happens,  as  men 
are  paid  on  a  piece  basis  and  naturally  try  to  get  out  as  much  work 
as  possible.  Nothing  will  throAv  lasts  o.ut  of  proper  measurements 
so  quickly  as  turning  lathes  at  high  speed.  The  block  revolving 
against  the  cutter  rebounds  so  quickly  and  with  such  a  jerk  that 
the  knives  cut  deep  irregular  lines  in  the  last,  destroying  the  pattern 


ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS.  95' 

edge  and  renderinf^  the  last  practically  Avorthless.  The  whole  last 
should  be  turned  at  tlie  same  rate  of  speed.  A  majority  of  last 
manufacturers  turn  the  portion  from  the  toe  to  the  waist  point  at 
a  greater  speed  than  that  from  the  waist  point  to  the  heel.  This 
should  not  be  allowed  on  Government  lasts.  Ordinarily  cutter 
knives  are  ground  after  turning  100  pairs  of  lasts,  and  it  is  very 
important  that  the  inspector  should  see  that  the  turning  machines 
are  tested  every  time  the  cutters  are  ground,  as  this  will  have  a 
tendency  to  correct  many  slight  variations  which  might  otherwise 
become  apparent. 

All  block  lasts  should  be  turned  one-eighth  larger  than  the  speci- 
fications call  for  when  finished.  This  allows  one-sixteenth  waste 
when  the  block  is  sawed  and  one-sixteenth  waste  when  scoured,  or, 
as  some  last  manufacturers  term,  "  grinding."  Any  last  leaving 
a  turning  room  and  measuring  less  than  one-eighth  larger  than  it 
should  when  finished  should  be  watched  throughout  the  works. 
How  important  this  is  and  what  actually  happens  to  substantiate 
this  point  will  be  explained  later. 

SHAVING  DEPARTMENT. 

As  fast  as  lasts  are  turned  they  are  sent  to  the  shaving  depart- 
ment, where  toes  and  heels  are  made.  The  first  operation  is  to  place 
all  toes  against  a  surface  cutter,  which  cuts  the  stub  on  an  exact 
bevel  with  the  bottom.  In  executing  this  operation  great  care 
should  be  exercised,  as  more  or  less  damage  can  be  done  in  trying 
to  trim  too  closely,  resulting  in  the  undercutting  of  the  toe  and 
making  an  irregular  bottom.  After  surfacing,  paper  sole  patterns 
are  applied  to  all  lasts,  toes  marked  in,  and  finished.  In  appl3dng 
sole  patterns  particular  attention  should  be  directed  in  measuring 
the  length,  beginning  at  the  heel  (less  heel  margin  allowance)  and 
thence  forward  to  the  toe.  After  toes  are  finished  heels  are  cut  and. 
trimmed  up  on  a  heel  saw,  a  machine  specially  designed  for  this 
work.  In  some  factories  the  heels  are  made  before  the  toes  are 
finished,  resulting  in  many  lasts  coming  short  on  the  stick  length. 
Once  heels  are  made,  then  toes  cut  in  accordance  with  paper  patterns, 
nothing  can  save  the  last  if  it  has  been  cut  too  close  on  the  heel, 
whereas  if  the  toes  are  finished  first  the  heel-saw  operator  has  an 
opportunity  to  get  his  stick  length  by  saving  a  little  more  wood  and 
still  not  throwing  out  the  natural  heel  curve.  In  a  number  of  in- 
stances it  has  been  noticed  that  heel-saw  operators  were  more  or 
less  careless  and  sometimes  cut  so  deeply  into  the  heel  that  the  mar- 
gin allow^ance  and  base  line  of  the  heel  were  cut  entirely  through, 
thus  destroying  the  pattern  length  and  throwing  the  heel  curve  out 
of  alignment,  also  making  lasts  short.  The  work  of  the  heel-saw 
operator  should  be  closely  watched  by  the  inspector,  as  upon  him 
depends  the  stick  length  of  the  last. 

BLOCK   DEPARTMENT. 

From  the  shaving  department  blocks  are  taken  into  the  block- 
sawing  department,  where  they  are  sawed  and  fitted  to  the  last. 
Aside  from  sawing,  nearly  all  the  other  minor  operations  are  easily 


96  ARMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

performed.  Blocks  should  be  sawed  so  that  the  inside  ball  line  will 
be  cut  deep  into  the  main  body  of  the  last,  thus  enabling  the  last  to 
be  drawn  more  freely  when  the  block  is  disconnected.  The  band 
saw  in  severing  the  block  from  the  main  body  of  the  last  should  not 
cut  over  one-sixteenth  scarf  as  specified.  Any  wider  scarf  would 
produce  an  indentation  in  the  block  line,  which  could  not  be  erased 
without  injury  to  the  last.  After  the  blocks  are  severed  they  should 
be  attached  to  the  last  in  accordance  Avith  specifications  covering  this 
operation. 

IRONING. 

It  is  the  duty  of  this  department  to  attach  the  heel  irons  or  entire 
bottoms  as  required  by  the  specifications.  There  is  one  feature  of  the 
1308  specifications  which  it  is  felt  might  be  improved,  either  by  spe- 
cial instructions  to  inspectors  or  by  a  change  in  the  specifications. 
The  present  1308  specifications  state : 

Heel  iron  to  have  a  margin  of  not  less  tlmn  one  thirty-second  of  an  inch  at 
extreme  back   (illustrated  in  diagram). 

It  is  suggested  that  the  following  clause  be  substituted  for  the 
above : 

Heel  iron  to  have  a  margin  of  not  more  than  three  sixty-fonrtlis  inch  and 
not  less  than  one  thirty-second  inch  at  extreme  baclv   (illustrated  in  diagram). 

This  suggestion  is  occasioned  by  the  receipt  of  many  lasts  with 
margins  varying  from  one  thirty-second  up  to  and  including  one- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch,  and  indeed  in  some  instances  approximating  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch.  Since  a  margin  of  this  size  results  in  some  diffi- 
culty in  the  lasting  operation,  it  is  considered  necessar^^  that  the  above 
restriction  should  be  applied.  Under  no  circumstances  should  the 
margin  be  filed  after  irons  are  attached. 

A  great  amount  of  difficulty  was  originally  encountered  in  the 
manner  of  attaching  the  iron  bottoms  of  the  1308  last  to  the  wood. 
The  specifications  read  as  follows: 

Bottom  of  lasts  to  he  phited  with  No.  20  gauge  galvanized  iron,  to  be  attached 
with  4  screws  and  6  nails  in  forepart  and  3  screws  and  2  nails  in  heel  seat  (see 
diagram  for  position  of  nails  and  screws).  Screws  to  be  one-half  inch  No.  .5 
wire. 

It  was  found  that  owing  to  the  labor  situation,  which  made  it 
necessar}^  to  break  in  many  new  hands  for  this  particular  class  of 
work  and  to  the  fact  that  very  few  last  manufacturers  at  that  time 
were  making  McKay  lasts,  practically  all  the  manufacturers  were 
boring  screw-  holes  either  with  power  augers  or  awls,  after  which 
the  screws  Avere  driven  in  with  hammers.  This  resulted  in  many 
instances  in  the  iron  bottoms  starting  from  the  lasts  in  the  course 
of  handling  at  the  warehouse  or  in  the  factor}^,  a  condition  which  was 
overcome  by  sending  written  instructions  to  all  last  inspectors, 
copies  of  which  were  forwarded  to  the  manufacturers,  as  follows: 

1.  You  are  instructed  to  watch  carefully  the  attaching  of  the  iron  to  the 
bottom  of  the  last. 

2.  Holes  for  screws  should  be  made  with  an  awl  smaller  than  wire  of  screw. 

3.  Do  not  permit  boring  devices  removing  part  of  wood. 

4.  You  are  to  reject  lasts  where  screws  are  driven  in  by  hammer  or  other 
device. 


ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS.  97 

SCOURING. 

Last  scouring  or  grinding  is  a  delicate  operation,  and  final  results 
rest  largely  on  the  work  of  this  department.  It  is  an  easy  matter  for 
a  scourer  to  take  off  one-eighth  or  one-fourth  of  a  size  on  a  last 
almost  without  noticing  it,  so  one  can  readily  understand  what  the 
result  would  be  if  lasts  came  to  the  scourer  slim  in  measure  or  less 
than  scouring  allowance  (one-sixteenth).  Oftentimes  lasts  turned 
a  trifle  under  the  one-sixteenth  allowance  will  go  through  providing 
thev  are  marked  to  scour  thin,  thus  enabling  the  scourer  to  grind  them 
lightly. 

In  order  to  demonstrate  what  would  logically  transpire  if  lasts 
were  turned  slim  or  under  measurement  in  the  beginning,  reference 
is  made  to  an  incident  that  occurred  at  a  last  factory  where  a  con- 
tractor turned  nearly  half  of  his  order  before  the  inspector  arrived 
at  the  factory.  Upon  the  arrival  of  the  inspector  he  ascertained  on 
going  through  the  turning  department  that  some  operators  were 
turning  lasts  as  high  as  three-quarters  of  a  size  full  and  as  low 
as  finished  measurements,  in  the  latter  case  leaving  nothing  for 
finishing.  On  looking  over  four  or  five  hundred  pairs  nearly  200 
were  found  to  have  been  turned  finished  measure.  Upon  discovering 
this  condition  of  affairs  it  became  necessary,  first,  to  get  the  lathes 
running  uniform  and  grading  properly ;  second,  to  measure  all  lasts 
on  the  floor,  those  found  under  being  blue  penciled  to  signify  light 
scouring;  and,  third,  to  reject  such  lasts  as  would  not  when  finished 
correspond  to  specification  measurements.  This  method  of  proce- 
dure was  carried  out  without  the  approval  of  the  superintendent, 
who  claimed  that  the  lasts  would  finish  within  the  one-sixteenth  per- 
missible variation  and  insisted  on  carrying  on  the  work  to  the 
finished  stage,  as  was  his  privilege,  providing  the  lasts  when  finished 
measured  in  accordance  wdth  specifications.  The  lasts  in  question 
were  rushed  through  the  works  at  a  period  when  the  inspector  was 
out  and  without  his  knowledge,  and  having  been  given  a  bath  in 
wood  alcohol,  covered  with  a  shellac  filler,  and  polished,  upon  the 
return  of  the  inspector  were  offered  for  final  approval.  Much  to  his 
surprise  not  a  single  last  was  sufficiently  under  standard  measure- 
ments to  warrant  its  being  thrown  out,  which  immediately  raised  a 
question  in  his  mind  as  to  what  treatment  had  been  given  the  lasts 
to  produce  this  effect.  After  spending  some  time  in  investigating 
the  situation  it  was  found  that  the  lasts  had  been  dipped  in  wood 
alcohol,  the  application  of  which  would  cause  the  lasts  to  swell  at 
least  a  size  within  a  short  period  of  time.  Upon  this  discovery  it 
was  insisted  that  the  lasts  in  question  remain  as  they  were  on  the 
racks  for  a  period  of  at  least  a  week  before  any  further  action  should 
be  taken  as  to  their  rejection  or  acceptance.  This  plan  met  with 
disapproval  on  the  part  of  the  management,  who  claimed  that  the 
lasts  were  properly  finished,  found  to  be  in  accordance  with  specifi- 
cations, and  consequently  were  ready  to  ship.  They  were,  however, 
informed  that  the  lasts  would  not  be  accepted  until  they  had  been 
subjected  to  further  tests  to  ascertain  whether  or  not  any  treatment 
to  which  they  had  been  subjected  might  possibly  prove  detrimental 
to  the  lasts.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  lasts  remained  on  the  racks  for 
a  period  of  10  days,  at  the  end  of  which  time  they  were  gone  over 

35285—21 7 


98  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

carefully  and  it  was  ascertained  that  they  had  gone  back  nearly  to 
their  original  and  normal  measurement,  which  was  from  a  quarter 
to  a  half  a  size  under  the  permissible  allowance.  The  alcohol,  being 
a  quick  absorbent,  had  penetrated  the  wood  and  produced  an  immedi- 
ate swelling,  while  the  application  of  shellac  and  polishing  material 
sealed  the  pores,  retarding  the  evaporation,  and  thus  temporarily 
maintaining  the  lasts  in  this  semiswollen  condition , 

THIMBLE  BORING. 

This  operation,  while  very  simple,  oftentimes  is  not  properly  per- 
formed. Thimble  holes  should  never  be  bored  any  deeper  than  to 
permit  the  insert  of'the  thimble.  Some  manufacturers  clo  not  place 
much  stress  on  this  point,  simply  boring  holes  regardless  of  depth 
or  of  a  resultant  vacuum  at  the  base  of  the  thimble,  thus  giving 
absolutely  no  support  for  the  thimble  to  rest  on,  whereas  if  the 
thimble  rested  firmly  on  the  wood,  supported  by  the  heavy  E.  C.  W. 
bolt  running  horizontally  across  its  base,  it  would  be  practically  im- 
possible for  any  heavy  pressure  to  push  it  deeper  into  the  last.  It 
has  been  found  and  proved  that  lasts  where  thimble  holes  were 
bored  regardless  of  depth  will  not  stand  up  under  heeling  and 
leveling  machine  pressure.  In  fact,  after  two  or  three  times  in  use 
the  thimbles  are  crushed  deep  into  the  last,  often  splitting  the  heel 
and  rendering  perfectly  good  lasts  unfit  for  further  use.  It  is  well 
to  see  that  this  operation  is  properly  done,  as  it  materially  affects 
the  life  of  the  lasts. 

POLISHING. 

Little  can  be  said  of  this  department  other  than  to  state  that 
proper  application  of  some  good  filler  should  be  made  to  every 
last.  In  the  past  it  has  been  permissible  to  use  either  a  filler  made 
in  liquid  form,  or  what  is  called  a  "  hard  stick  "  filler,  which  is  applied 
and  burnished  in  by  a  wheel.  The  latter  is  not  considered  advis- 
able, an  examination  of  thousands  of  finished  lasts  having  demon- 
strated that  the  polishing  operation  is  of  no  value  without  a  proper 
filler,  and  further  that  there  is  no  filler  that  equals  liquid  white 
shellac.  This  should  be  applied  with  a  brush  and  not  too  sparingly, 
and  should  be  worked  well  into  the  grain  of  the  wood  in  order  to 
prevent  extensive  shrinkage  and  swelling.  Specification  for  the 
1308  lasts  states : 

Lasts  to  be  filled  with  a  high-grade  filler  or  white  shellac  and  then  polished 
and  thoroughly  waxed  with  Canauba  wax.  Lasts  must  be  stained  before 
.applying  filler. 

The  finishing  and  polishing  of  a  majority  of  the  lasts  received 
during  the  first  three  months  of  the  manufacture  of  the  1308  type 
were  not  up  to  the  standard.  It  was  suggested  at  that  time  that 
all  last  manufacturers  be  required  to  use  white  shellac  properly 
applied  with  a  brush,  since  it  was  ascertained  that  Canauba  wax 
was  extremely  difficult  to  obtain  and  it  was  thought  that  if  white 
shellac  were  used  it  would  prove  sufficient  protection  from  the 
elements.  There  is  yet  to  be  found  a  composition  the  application 
of  which  will  render  the  lasts  safe  from  shrinkage  and  swelling. 
However  great  the  care  exercised  in  the  storage  of  lasts,  their 
measurements  are  bound  to  vary  as  a  result  of  the  atmospheric  changes 
to  which  the  eastern  section  of  the  country  is  subject. 


Chapter  XV. 
RECEIYINO,  SHIPPING,  AND  STORING  OF  SHOE  LASTS. 


Early  in  the  game  it  was  discovered  that  the  questions  of  receiving, 
shipping,  and  storing  of  lasts  would  afford  many  complicated  prob- 
lems, demanding  quick  and  accurate  solutions.  It  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  there  were  in  the  New  England  States  at  one  time  21 
manufacturers  making  Army  shoes  and  that  there  were  approxi- 
mately 750,000  Munson  welt  lasts  and  227,000  Munson  metallic  lasts 
to  be  handled.  The  production  of  shoes  depended  to  a  large  extent 
upon  ideal  conditions  surrounding  the  efficiency  of  the  last  depart- 
ment, and  whenever  it  became  necessary  for  Washington  or  for  local 
officials  to  take  up  with  shoe  contractors  the  matter  of  facilitated 
production  the  contractors  invariably  referred  to  the  last  situation, 
either  claiming  that  they  did  not  receive  lasts  at  the  time  they  were 
ready  to  commence  operations  or  that  owing  to  errors  in  shipment 
they  did  not  receive  lasts  of  the  style,  size,  and  width  required,  which 
in  the  early  days  was  generally  true. 

During  the  manufacture  of  the  early  contracts  it  was  customary  to 
ask  the  shoe  manufacturer  how  many  lasts  were  desired  and  then  to 
allow  him  10  to  20  per  cent  more  then  he  requested,  when  as  a  matter 
of  fact  his  demands  were  more  liable  to  be  about  40  per  cent  in  excess 
of  his  requirements.  After  a  decision  had  been  made  as  to  the  allot- 
ment of  lasts  to  the  shoe  manufacturer,  it  was  customary  to  order 
the  lasts  required  either  directly  from  last  manufacturers  as  they 
were  completed  or  from  storage.  Under  normal  conditions  in  accord- 
ance with  regulations,  the  distribution  division  would  handle  the 
ordering  in  and  out  and  the  accountability ;  warehousing,  the  storage ; 
and  transportation,  the  moving  of  lasts ;  but  owing  to  delay  in  sorting, 
bagging,  and  preparation  for  shipment,  errors  in  assembling  styles, 
sizes,  and  widths  as  ordered,  and  general  delay  in  moving  lasts  from 
storage  to  the  transportation  companies,  it  became  evident  that  if  any 
degree  of  efficiency  was  to  be  obtained  it  would  be  necessary  to  install 
a  unified  and  detailed  system. 

After  a  careful  survey  of  the  general  situation  it  was  decided,  first, 
to  delegate  all  authority  relative  to  the  distribution  and  storage  in  as 
far  as  possible  to  the  Shoe  Branch ;  second,  to  prepare  a  system  cov- 
ering the  purchase,  manufacture,  and  distribution  of  shoe  lasts;  and, 
third,  to  establish  a  central  warehouse  to  be  vised  as  a  clearing  house 
and  storage  place  for  shoe  lasts  at  Brockton,  Mass.,  whicli  is  not  only 
the  greatest  men's  shoe  center  in  the  world  but  is  within  a  few  miles 
of  Whitman,  Rockland,  Abington,  Bridge  water.  South  Weymouth, 
and  Stoughton,  where  shoes  and  lasts  were  being  manufactured. 

One  feature  of  this  system  was  the  decision  that  all  lasts  should  be 
bagged  36  pairs  of  a  solid  size  and  width  to  each  bag,  bins  being  used 

99 


100  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE  LASTS. 

for  odd  lasts  with  compartments  for  lasts  of  each  size  and  width 
which  were  in  charge  of  men  who  made  up  a  bag  as  soon  as  36  pairs 
of  any  size  and  width  were  accumulated.  The  results  obtained  from 
the  system  installed  were  so  satisfactory  that  at  the  climax  of  endeav- 
ors there  were  moved  in  and  out  of  the  warehouse  at  Brockton  over 
900,000  pounds  of  shoe  lasts  every  30  days,  and  after  employees  had 
been  thoroughly  trained  it  was  possible  in  case  of  an  emergency  to 
move  lasts  in  and  out  at  the  rate  of  3,000  pairs  per  hour  without  se- 
rious errors  as  to  size  and  width.  This  resulted  in  the  minimizing  of 
criticisms  from  all  sources  and  it  is  thought  that  if  employees  were 
trained  in  accordance  with  this  system  no  difficulty  should  be  experi- 
enced in  successfully  handling  any  emergency  which  might  arise  in 
connection  with  last  problems. 

ROUTINE  AT  THE  BROCKTON  WAREHOUSE. 

I.  Receipts. 

Receipts  at  the  Brockton  warehouse  fall  into  two  general  classes — receipts 
from  shoe  manufacturers  and  receipts  from  last  manufacturers.  Since  the 
routine  in  each  case  differs  slightly  they  will  be  taken  up  separately. 

A.    FEOM  SHOE  MANUFACTUREES. 

1.  Records  of  receipt. 

(a)  The  used  lasts  which  are  returned  by  the  shoe  manufacturers  should, 
upon  receipt,  be  reported  on  tally  sheets.  This  is  the  form  prescribed  by  the 
Warehousing  Section  for  use  in  connection  with  goods  of  any  kind  which  are 
received  at  a  warehouse.  This  tally  sheet  is  made  out  in  triplicate.  The  re- 
ceiving checker  also  records  the  receipt  in  his  receiving  book,  giving  the  in- 
formation that  is  called  for  in  it.  These  tally  sheets  are  sent  to  department  2, 
which  handles  all  the  records  concerning  receipts  from  shoe  manufacturers. 

2.  Records  of  inspection. 

(a)  In  this  department  one  of  the  clerks  notes  the  range  of  the  container 
numbers  in  the  shipment  and  prepares  a  page,  or  set  of  pages  (like  Form  6) 
upon  which  is  entered  information  appearing  upon  tlie  tally  sheets.  These 
pages  are  kept  in  a  book  called  "  Receipts  from  shoe  manufacturers."  The 
original  tally  sheet  is  then  sent  into  Boston,  one  copy  is  filed,  and  one  is  kept 
with  the  goods. 

(b)  As  the  lasts  are  inspected,  the  original  tags  are  attached  to  each  inspec- 
tion report  and  are  sent  into  the  office  by  the  inspection  checker  to  department  2. 
A  clerk  here  removes  the  tags,  checks  them  with  the  inspection  reports,  and 
sends  them  to  be  filed,  and  then  passes  the  inspection  report  to  the  clerk  in 
charge  of  the  book  of  receipts  from  shoe  manufacturers.  This  clerk  makes 
an  analysis  on  Form  2,  showing  the  lasts  over,  short,  and  rejected.  An  analysis 
nmst  be  made  out  in  duplicate  for  every  inspection  report  that  comes  in.  The 
original  is  sent  to  Boston  and  the  duplicate  is  kept  at  the  warehouse. 

3.  Credit  to  shoe  manufacturers. 

(a)  When  all  the  bags  of  a  shipment  have  been  inspected  and  reported  upon, 
the  allotted  spaces  on  the  pages  (Form  6)  which  have  been  prepared  are  filled 
in  and  the  clerk  then  makes  up  a  consensus  report  on  the  entire  shipment.  These 
figures  are  checked  with  the  incoming  shipping  report  of  the  shipment.  If  they 
correspond,  both  copies  of  the  shipping  report  are  signed  by  the  person  in  charge 
and  forwarded  to  Boston.  If  they  do  not  correspond,  it  should  be  called  to  the 
attention  of  this  person  who  notifies  the  officer  in  charge.  The  analyses,  giving 
the  amounts  received  and  accepted  on  each  shipment,  form  the  basis  of  crediting 
the  shoe  manufacturers  with  the  lasts  they  have  returned.  The  Boston  office 
should  also  be  notified  how  many  bags  each  shipment  from  shoe  manufacturers 
consists  of,  since  the  manufacturer  is  charged  with  the  burlap  bags  and  he 
can  not  be  credited  with  their  return  unless  the  warehouse  notifies  the  Boston 
dffice. 

4.  Disposition. 

(a)  The  inspection  report  with  the  analysis  is  sent  to  department  1,  where  the 
clerk  enters  the  amount  accepted  on  the  proper  stock  sheet.     These  papers  are 


ARMY  SHOES   AND  SHOE   LASTS.  101 

then  sent  to  be  filed.     These  lasts  may  be  put  either  in  permanent  storage  or  may 
be  held  for  redistribution,  but,  in  any  case,  proper  stock  sheet  must  be  credited. 

B.   FROM    LAST   MANUFACTURERS. 

1.  Records  of  receipt. 

(a)  As  lasts  are  received  from  last  manufacturers,  the  receiving  clerk  makes 
out  tally  sheets  (Form  5),  just  as  is  the  case  in  every  other  shipment.  Also 
record  of  the  receipt  is  entered  in  the  receiver's  book. 

2.  Records  of  inspection  or  checking. 

(a)  Usually  these  lasts  have  already  been  inspected  at  the  various  factories 
and  it  is  necessary  only  to  check  them.  However,  whether  they  are  to  be  in- 
spected or  checked,  the  form  to  be  used  is  Brockton  warehouse  inspection  report 
(Form  4).  The  checker  removes  the  original  tags  after  the  inspection  or  check- 
ing, attaches  them  to  the  tally  sheets  and  the  inspection  report,  and  sends  them 
to  department  3,  which  handles  all  the  records  of  receipts  from  last  manu- 
facturers. 

3.  Approval  of  invoices. 

(a)  This  department  checks  the  tags  with  the  tally  receipts  and  inspection 
reports  to  make  sure  that  there  are  no  errors.  This  is  very  important,  since 
a  great  many  of  the  errors  discovered  have  been  caused  by  carelessness  in  copy- 
ing the  figures  from  the  tags.  After  the  tags  have  been  checked  an  analysis  i« 
made  of  the  checking  or  inspection  report  on  Form  2.  This  shows  the  lasts 
over,  short,  rejected,  and  accepted.  This  is  made  out  in  duplicate,  one  (3opy 
for  Boston  and  the  other  for  file  at  the  warehouse.  Any  irregularities  in  the 
shif)ment  should  be  called  to  the  attention  of  the  person  in  charge  and  noted 
in  the  space  provided  therefor  on  the  analysis  sheet.  The  original  tally  sheet 
and  the  original  analysis  are  then  sent  to  Boston.  The  duplicates  of  these  two 
papers  then  go  to  another  clerk  in  this  same  department,  who  records  the  in- 
formation on  the  analysis  sheet  in  a  book  called  "  Receipts  from  Last  Manu- 
facturers." 

(b)  These  figures  are  entered  under  each  manufacturer's  name,  and  from 
them  the  invoices  are  checked  up  and  approved  for  payment.  No  invoices  should 
be  approved  unless  they  bear  the  sizes  and  widths  of  the  lasts  invoiced. 

4.  Disposition. 

(a)  The  lasts  that  come  in  from  last  manufacturers  are  in  all  cases  stored 
so  they  will  be  available  for  redistribution.  The  place  where  they  are  stored 
is  marked  on  the  inspection  report  and  these  papers  are  sent  from  department 
3  to  department  1,  where  the  accepted  lasts  are  entered  on  the  proper  sto'ck 
sheet. 

II.  Shipments. 

A.    FROM   MAIN    WAREHOUSE. 

1.  Initial  steps. 

(a)  The  initial  step  in  shipping  lasts  from  the  warehouse  after  the  authority 
has  been  given  is  to  make  out  a  shipping  order  in  duplicate.  One  copy  is  for 
the  person  in  charge,  who  keeps  it  as  a  personal  memorandum  to  be  destroyed 
when  the  shipment  has  been  completed.  The  other  copy  goes  to  department  1, 
where  the  amount  of  the  shipment  is  deducted  from  the  stock  sheet.  The  clerk 
here  also  fills  in  the  information  as  to  whom  the  shipment  was  ordered  by  and 
the  authority  therefor.  For  the  purpose  of  explanation,  it  should  be  made 
clear  that  the  shipment  is  authorized  by  letter  or  a  telephone  call  from  the 
Boston  depot  and  is  ordered  by  the  person  in  charge  of  the  shipments  at  the 
warehouse.  This  clerk  further  notes  on  the  order  that  the  amount  has  been 
deducted  from  the  stock  sheets. 

(6)  The  order  is  then  passed  to  the  person  in  charge  of  the  warehouse,  who 
numbers  it.    This  number  is  used  later  on  the  shipping  ticket  also. 

2.  Selection,  etc. 

(a)  The  order  then  goes  to  the  shipper,  who  has  it  selected,  bagged,  and 
checked,  filling  in  the  names  of  the  persons  who  do  the  work.  He  also  makes 
out  duplicate  shipping  sheets,  showing  the  contents  and  weight  of  each  bag, 
and  also  its  United  States  number,  which  has  been  previously  assigned  by  the 
shipping  clerk. 

(b)  When  lasts  are  bagged  and  ready  to  ship,  the  shipper  turns  the  shipping 
sheets  over  to  the  shipping  c'lerk,  who  checks  the  figures  to  see  that  the  totals 
are  correct  and  amounts  packed  agree  with  the  amounts  ordered.    The  clerk 


102  ARMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 

then  makes  a  typewritten  copy  of  the  onion-skins  and  mails  it  to  the  consignee 
to  be  used  in  checking  in  a  shipment.  He  also  makes  out  a  shipping  ticket, 
one  copy  of  which  is  retained  at  the  warehouse,  one  copy  of  which  is  sent  to 
the  officer  in  charge  of  production,  and  one  copy  of  which  is  received  by  the 
Distribution  Division.  Space  reading  "  Invoice  to  "  is  to  be  left  blank.  After 
the  shipping  ticket  is  given  a  special  number  in  the  editors'  department, 
warehouse  copy  will  be  sent  to  the  warehouse  making  the  shipment  for  filing. 
This  ticket  is  made  out  after  the  goods  have  been  delivered  to  the  transporting 
agent.  He  also  has  the  bill  of  lading  signed  by  the  agent  and  fills  in  the 
necessary  data  on  it.  The  shipping  order  is  also  turned  over  to  him  by  the 
shipper  and  he  fills  in  whatever  information  is  called  for.  He  can  usually 
note  everything  on  it  but  the  shipping  report  number. 

3.  Completion  of  shipment. 

(a)  The  complete  shipping  ticket,  order,  and  the  signed  bill  of  lading  are 
handed  to  the  person  in  charge.  The  fact  is  noted  that  the  order  lias  been 
shipped  and  the  duplicate  shipping  order  destroyed.  All  the  documents  then 
go  to  department  1,  where  the  figures  are  again  checked.  The  documents  then 
go  to  department  4,  which  handles  all  of  the  records  in  regard  to  outgoing 
shipments.  The  clerk  in  this  department  makes  out  the  shipping  report  and 
distributes  the  various  copies.  One  of  the  warehouse  copies  of  the  shipping 
ticket  and  the  duplicate  shipping  sheet  is  then  detached  and  sent  to  be  filed. 
The  original  shipping  sheet  is  attached  to  the  rest  of  the  shipping  ticket,  which 
goes  into  the  depot,  as  does  the  complete  bill  of  lading.  The  shipping  order  is 
filed,  together  with  the  other  documents  concerning  the  same  shipment.  This 
clerk  also  keeps  a  record  of  all  outgoing  bills  of  lading. 

III.  Division  of  Routine. 

In  dividing  the  routine  work  at  the  Brockton  warehouse  it  has  been  con- 
sidered best  to  call  the  clerk,  or  clerks,  handling  each  phase  of  the  work  a 
department.  In  some  cases  where  the  department  consists  of  more  than  one 
clerk  the  work  can  not  be  assigned  to  a  particular  person,  therefore  it  is  best 
to  assign  it  simply  to  the  department. 

A.  DEPARTMENT    1. 

(a)  All  stock  records  are  kept  here.  They  show  exactly  what  is  on  hand 
at.  all  storage  places.  All  orders  must  pass  through  this  department  in  order 
to  be  deducted  from  the  proper  stock  sheet.  All  stock  transfers  must  come  here 
so  that  the  records  may  be  kept  accurately.  When  lasts  are  inspected  a  report 
must  come  to  this  department  so  that  those  accepted  will  be  added  to  the 
stock  sheet. 

B.  DEPARTMENT    2. 

(a)  This  department  takes  charge  of  all  records  pertaining  to  receipts  from 
shoe  manufacturers.  Book  called  '*  Receipts  from  Shoe  Manufacturers "  is 
kept  here  and  is  used  in  the  manner  described  under  "  Receipts."  The  inspec- 
tion reports  of  these  lasts  come  here,  as  do  also  the  incoming  shipping  reports 
of  lasts  returned  by  shoe  manufacturers,  so  that  they  may  be  checked. 

( b )  This  department  also  makes  out  and  sends  to  Boston  an  analysis  of  each 
inspection  report  showing  the  lasts  over,  short,  rejected,  and  accepted.  Any- 
thing else  that  comes  under  the  head  of  receipts  from  shoe  manufacturers  is 
handled  by  this  department.  Incidentally  this  department  keeps  record  of  all 
incoming  bills  of  lading. 

C.  DEPARTMENT    3. 

(a)  Receipts  from  last  manufacturers  are  handled  by  this  department.  Inci- 
dentally the  work  of  approving  invoices  from  last  manufacturers  comes  under 
this  heading.  In  addition  to  the  book  showing  the  analysis  of  each  receipt  of 
lasts,  this  department  keeps  a  register  of  all  bills  that  pass  through  it. 

D.  DEPARTMENT    4. 

i^)  This  department  handles  the  clerical  end  of  all  outgoing  shipments.  The 
shipping  ticket  is  distributed  here  and  the  shipping  report  is  made  out  and 
distributed  also,  and  record  is  kept  by  number  and  by  consignee  of  every  ship- 
ping report  that  goes  out.    The  outgoing  bills  of  lading  are  also  recorded  here. 


AKMY  SHOES  AND   SHOE   LASTS.  103 

E.  DEPARTMENT    5. 

(a)  This  department  has  charge  of  all  time  keeping  and  personnel  work. 
The  daily  report  of  absence  and  tardiness,  the  employment  and  discharge  slips, 
the  pay  rolls,  and  the  other  personnel  records  are  made  out  and  kept  here. 

F.  DEPARTMENT    6. 

(a)  This  department  has  charge  of  filing  all  documents  and  Issuing  of  all 
office  supplies. 

IV.  Miscellaneous. 

A.   PERSONNEL. 

(ft)  Accurate  record  must  be  kept  of  the  time  each  employee  enters  and 
leaves  the  warehouse  in  the  morning,  at  noon,  and  in  the  evening.  Absence 
and  tardy  reports  must  be  made  out  and  sent  into  Boston  not  later  than  10 
a.  m.  the  following  day.  It  is  especially  important  that  pay  rolls  be  made 
up  and  sent  into  Boston  on  time  so  that  there  may  be  no  delay  in  paying 
off  the  employees. 

B.    BOOKS    OF    RECORD. 

(ft)  So  far  as  possible  all  records  of  importance  should  be  kept  in  perma- 
nent books  so  that  they  may  be  available  whenever  necessary.  Among  the 
purposes  for  which  permanent  record  books  should  be  kept  are  receipts  from 
shoe  manufacturers,  receipts  from  last  manufacturers,  record  of  incoming  and 
outgoing  bills  of  lading,  record  of  incoming  and  outgoing  shipping  reports, 
register  of  all  invoices  that  pass  through  the  warehouse,  supplies  received  at 
the  warehouse,  and  a  record  of  absences  and  tardinesses. 

C.   OFEICE    SUPPLIES. 

(ft)  A  stock  of  office  supplies  sufficient  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  office  for 
at  least  two  weeks  should  be  kept  on  hand  at  all  times.  In  ordering  no 
items  should  exceed  a  two  weeks'  supply. 

D.   USE   OF   THE   TELEPHONE. 

(ft)  The  telephone  should  be  used  only  on  official  Government  business,  and 
all  toll  calls  should  be  recorded.  In  calling  up  Boston  as  much  business  as 
possible  should  be  saved  for  one  call  so  that  they  may  not  be  numerous. 

Form  No.  1. — Shipping  Order. 

A  shipping  order  contains  all  the  possible  information  needed  about  any  one 
shipment.  It  takes  in  more  than  the  shipping  ticket  and  is  also  necessary  so 
tliat  there  may  be  one  distinctive  form  upon  which  to  order  the  shipments. 
It  has  been  found  confusing  to  put  orders  on  size  sheets,  because  the  size 
sheets  may  be  used  for  many  different  purposes,  such  as  memorandums, 
records  of  what  has  been  received,  etc.  Practice  has  shown  that  it  is  much 
safer  to  have  one  distinctive  form  such  as  this  for  orders.  For  method  of  use 
see  "  Shipments.' 


» 


104 


AEMY   SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 


BROCKTON  WAREHOUSE. 
SHIPPING  ORDER. 


SHIP  TO. 


(Form  l.) 

No 

Date 

Spec.  No 


Ordered  by- 
Authority 

Noted  on  Stock  Sheet  by- 
Selected  by 
Packed  by- 
Checked  by  ♦ 


Shipping  ticket  No. 
Actually  shipped  on 
Shipped  %ia 
B/L  No. 

Shipping  Report  No. 
No.  of  bags 


5i 

6 

6i 

7 

7i 

8 

Sh 

9 

9i 

10 

lOJ 

11 

UJ 

12 

12J 

13 

14 

15 

Total. 

A— wide 

B— wide 

C— wide 

D— wide 

\ 

• 

E— wide 

EE— wide 

* 

U.  S.  Bag  No. 


Remarks. 
Note  lasts  which  it  is  impossible  to  ship. 


ARMY  SHOES  AND  SHOE  LASTS. 


105 


Form  No.  2. — ^Analysis  Sheet. 

This  is  used  to  record  the  final  results  of  the  checking  or  inspection  of  the 
•shipments.  Formerly  lasts  over,  short,  rejected,  and  accepted  were  recorded 
on  separate  sheets.  All  four  size  sheets  were  necessary  to  conrplete  the  records 
of  one  shipment.  By  using  this  analysis  sheet  all  the  information  of  any  one 
shipment  is  on  one  piece  of  paper,  even  to  the  invoice  number  and  to  the  dis- 
position of  the  rejects  and  overage  and  notification  of  the  shortage.  For  infor- 
mation as  to  the  use  of  this  sheet,  see  "  Receipts." 

(Form  2.) 

ANALYSIS  SHEET. 


RECEIVED  FROM, 


Invoice  No.  . 
Specification 


H 

■«! 
H 

O 

ft 

o 
o 

H 

1-4 
ft 

H 

o 


O 

< 

Pi 
O 

n 

fa 

o 

O 

-«! 
O 

Cm 
O 


tn 
H 
o 

w 

fi 

O 

!? 

O 

^^ 
H 

o 


o 

ca 


a 
o 

o 


O 

O 

K 


!2J 
O 

1:1 
o 


en 
H 
GO 

tzi 

CO 

o 

w 
o 


aa 


S 

M 


o 


ACCEPTED. 


5 

5i 

6 

6i 

7 

7i 

8 

8J 

9 

9i 

10 

lOi 

11 

m 

12 

12i 

13 

14 

15 

Total. 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

EE 

106 


ARMY  SHOES   AND  SHOE  LASTS. 


FoBM  No.  3. — Stock  Transfer. 


In  order  to  keep  the  records  of  the  stock  accurately  it  is  necessary  that  every 
transfer  be  noted  on  a  stock  transfer  and  sent  to  clerk  No.  1,  who  keeps  the 
stock  records.  She  transfers  the  amount  on  her  books  and  then  sends  the  form 
to  be  filed. 

(FOEM  3.) 

SHOE  LASTS. 


BROCKTON  WAREHOUSE. 


STOCK  TRANSFER. 

INSPECTED. 
UNINSPECTED. 


Date 


Specification 


From to 


TRANSFERRED  BY, 


Bag  No. 
Contents. 

Bag  No. 
Contents. 

Bag  No. 
Contents. 

Bag  No. 
Contents. 

Bag  No. 
Contents. 

i 

1 

1 

■                                j 

: 

'                       1 

1 

Deducted  from 
By- 

, 

i                      1 

1                                             1 

Approved  by 

Posted  into 

ARMY   SHOES  AND   SHOE  LASTS. 


107 


FoBM  No.  4. — Inspection  Report. 

This  report  is  used  in  checking  or  inspecting  lasts  that  come  in  from  last 
manufacturers.    For  its  use  see  "  Receipts." 

(Form  4.) 

INSPECTION  REPORT. 

SPECIAL  FORM  FOR  1154  LASTS  RETURNED  BY  SHOE  MFRS. 


Consignor , Spec. 

Received  from . Date 

Temporary  Disposition. 


Tag  No. 

Tag  Calls 
For. 

Accepted. 

Rejected. 

New  Lasts. 

Smalle 
Lasts. 

Short  or 
Over. 

_ 

108 


ABMY  SHOES   AND   SHOE   LASTS. 


Form  No.  5. — Tally  Sheets. 


Form  256A— P.  &  S.— 1-1-19. 
Original  filed  in  Receiving  Section. 


INCOMING. 
TALLY  SHEET. 


Serul  No 

No.  OF  Sheets. 
Sheet  No 


Goods  received  at  warehouse Date  . 

Received  from B/L  or  pro.  No , 

Shipper's  Name Car  Seal  No 


Car  No 

Purchase  or  contract  No. 


Remarks. 


Number  AND  Kind  of  Containers Date  car  arrived Date  car  released... 

Checker's  signature .*. Unloading  begun Unloading  completed. 


MATERLA.L 

MATERLA.L 

Material 

Package  No. 

Amount. 

Size. 

Package  No. 

Amount. 

Size. 

Package  No. 

Amount. 

Size. 

1 

■ 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

•  ••••■•  •^m  *  ■   •  •  • 

12 

13 

•••••••••••••• 

14 

15 

Total 

Received  by 

Report  prepared  bt 

Date. 

ARMY   SHOES   AISTD   SHOE   LASTS. 


109 


INSTRUCTIONS   TO  TALLY   CLERK. 

Mark  heavy  circle  on  other  side  of  this  sheet  around  numbers  of  damaged 
packages  and  list  them  below  with  full  information  as  to  condition  in  which 
they  are  received.  This  is  of  the  utmost  importance,  as  claims  will  be  made  on 
the  basis  of  this  information. 

PACKAGES  RECEIVED  IN  DAMAGED  CONDITION. 


Pkq.  No. 

Weight. 

Articles. 

Condition  of  Packages. 

Form  No.  6. — Special  Inspection  Report. 

This  is  a  special  form  of  the  inspection  report  which  is  used  for  lasts,  Specifi- 
cation 1154,  now  being  returned  by  shoe  manufacturers.  It  was  designed  to 
classify  lasts  which  have  never  been  used  by  manufacturers  and  also  lasts 
manufactured  by  Bekkenhuis  &  Smalle,  which  are  now^  being  rejected  after  use. 


SPECIAL  INSPECTION  REPORT. 


Name  of  concern. 


(Form  6.) 


Location. 


Specification. 


Date 
Rec'd. 

Bag 
No. 

Tag  Calls 
For. 

Date 
Insp. 

Accepted. 

Rejected. 

Short. 

Over. 

Tempo- 
rary Dis- 
position. 

Final  Dis- 
position. 

1 

Z 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 



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OCT  25  19 


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3s10)476-1a.32 


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